Electric Choke Dead
Electric Choke Dead
OK, I haven't been able to figure out why I don't have 12 volts at my choke. It's my understanding it's supposed to be there all the time. What would happen if you just ran a wire from ignition to the choke??
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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.
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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by SgtSkip:
OK, I haven't been able to figure out why I don't have 12 volts at my choke. It's my understanding it's supposed to be there all the time.</font>
OK, I haven't been able to figure out why I don't have 12 volts at my choke. It's my understanding it's supposed to be there all the time.</font>
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">What would happen if you just ran a wire from ignition to the choke??
</font>
</font>
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
Yep, only when the ignition is on. The choke light stays on all the time. I thought it was a charging problem but I'm on my third alternator since it's come on a few years ago so I think I'm OK there.
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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.
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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
The choke wire should have 12v only when the car is running. If the choke light is staying on all the time, check the choke heater relay. If it dims or flickers when the car is running, check the choke heater fuse.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Car: 1992 Camaro Z28 & 2k3 Cadillac CTS
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:43
where is the choke heater fuse? where is the choke heater relay? this choke is so difficult to get right after its gone astray...
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
The choke heater fuse is labelled C-H in the fuse block. The choke heater relay is in the convenience center.
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Despite its name, it's located in the worst possible spot. It's under the dash in the area of the driver's knee.
Well, the fuse was bad and the choke light went out when I replaced it. I still don't have 12 volts at the choke though. I do have .15 volts if that means anything. Do I need to pull the bottom pannel to get to the convenience center??
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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.
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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.
Did you have a good ground source when you measured the voltage at the choke plug? You DON'T want to use the choke's metal tab as your ground source becuase the choke element isn't zero-resistance-to-ground. I usually wire brush one of the forward carb bolts until it's shiny metal and use that as my ground source.
You're getting closer, I can feel it! Not may parts left if the choke system now.
BTW- I found that one of the wires that goes to the windshield wiper motor is an adequate source of ignition-switched 12V power. The choke draws almost no amps so tapping into it and running a fresh wire over to the choke is one way of fixing this problem. I'd only do it as a last resort, however, like if the stock wiring or relay connector is seriously screwed up and beyond repair.
You're getting closer, I can feel it! Not may parts left if the choke system now.
BTW- I found that one of the wires that goes to the windshield wiper motor is an adequate source of ignition-switched 12V power. The choke draws almost no amps so tapping into it and running a fresh wire over to the choke is one way of fixing this problem. I'd only do it as a last resort, however, like if the stock wiring or relay connector is seriously screwed up and beyond repair.
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