External Float Level Check
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 190
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From: Calhoun, Georgia, USA
Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: Code "H" LG4
Transmission: 700R4
External Float Level Check
On my OEM Qjet, I have found that the float level should be 11/32". I assume this is the measuremnt with the airhorn off. What is the correct measurement doing the external reading?
Thanks
Thanks
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Calhoun, Georgia, USA
Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: Code "H" LG4
Transmission: 700R4
Found it
Stupid me. I see the Thexton toll I have is already guaged to compensate for the inch or so in the air horn.
As stated above, my spec is 11/32. I measure 13/32, which is the upper end of spec (+/- 1/16"). I am experenceing SEVERE fuel starvation at moderate to WOT. Suggestions?
As stated above, my spec is 11/32. I measure 13/32, which is the upper end of spec (+/- 1/16"). I am experenceing SEVERE fuel starvation at moderate to WOT. Suggestions?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
It should never starve at any fuel bowl level. The Q-Jet is capable of running at max HP continuously (as in a boat for example); it should never be able to empty the bowl, in such a way that you could compensate by over-filling it.
You have a fuel delivery problem. Start with a new fuel filter. Do not cut your steel line; the fuel filter is in the big nut the fuel line screws into. Get a 5/8' wrench for the fuel line nut, and a 1" wrench for the inlet nut; hold the inlet nut still while you disconnect the fuel line; then take the big nut out. Be careful how you put it back: the threads are fine and prone to stripping from carelessness.
if it's not that, then it's either your fuel pump, or something in your gas tank; the sock full of trash, the line encrusted with ancient varnish deposits, etc.
You have a fuel delivery problem. Start with a new fuel filter. Do not cut your steel line; the fuel filter is in the big nut the fuel line screws into. Get a 5/8' wrench for the fuel line nut, and a 1" wrench for the inlet nut; hold the inlet nut still while you disconnect the fuel line; then take the big nut out. Be careful how you put it back: the threads are fine and prone to stripping from carelessness.
if it's not that, then it's either your fuel pump, or something in your gas tank; the sock full of trash, the line encrusted with ancient varnish deposits, etc.
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Calhoun, Georgia, USA
Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: Code "H" LG4
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks, I've actually done all the above, but the trash in tank thing. It does get MUCH worse below 1/4 tank. I was just hopeing I would have to pull the tank. Oh well...
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
There is a chance that your car has both the mechanical pump on the engine, and an in-tank electrical. If the in-tank is bad, the mechanical may be able to handle it when the tank is full, but can't pull through the electric as fuel level drops.
Worth a check.
Worth a check.
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