What a pain!!

It's a Action+, and a few things I noted with the swap - the thermostadt housing is casted more towards the driver's side. This puts my upper rad hose lying on the AC bracket. Had to trim it shorter...looks better.

Don't count on your throttle cable bracket to bolt right up. I had to "tweak" mine (bend) it around so it would line up better with the carb - which BTW is around 1 1/2 inches higher now.

This took much longer than I had imagined....tons of connectors, hoses etc....

Plus - the carb mounting holes are tapped too shallow....I had to get shorter bolts and use washers. Along with the upper alternator mounting bracket had to be trimmed so I could get the bolt in - it was drilled too vlose to the thermostat housing.

Seems to be strong - don't know if it'll make much of a diff....I already had the headers, cam and catback on it. Too miserable out to test drive it... lol....

I did notice that after I set the timing and idle with the air cleaner off, my A/F gage was reading "Lean" at idle.

After I put my air cleaner on, it seemed normal (Stoich -slightly towards lean).

After changing to this intake, do I need to check my MC solinoid for proper dwell again??

I haven't taken it out on the road yet, but it seems to rev up a little quicker than it did. Just got done with this an hour ago, and I'm toast.

Any advice appreciated.

Think I gained anything by changing from stock to this??

 

I had similar, not quite identical, issues when I did my GMPP manifold. Remember, "There's no such thing as a bolt-on."

With all the other upgrades you've made, the manifold will allow them to work to their potential.

Now, if you had just gone for the 2050 cam...

 

Yeah, I agree 5-7, but you'd think with as how many of these intakes they've probably sold, they would have it right by now.

I mean, what do they do? Design these things with a computer and never field test these things for proper fit??

I chose the 2040 cam because I'm still running CCC. It has a considerably higher lift, but the duration is computer freindly. And the lift is higher than the stock L69 cam. My only plans for the engine now is to change up the rods and hangers to squeeze a little more out of it hopefully. Everything I have on it now is smog friendly, so in theory I am legal anywhere I go.

Then it's on to body, interior, etc... Then down the road, a second engine (maybe a 400?), and definatley a T-56.

How about the air cleaner making a difference on my idle A/F ratio?? Is that normal??

Do I need to reset the dwell on my M/C solinoid? Or so long as it stays stoich - should I leave it alone>? Would anyone recommend any specific rods/hanger combo for my setup? It costs alot to "experiment".

Thanks in advance for any opinions.

 

If you rair cleaner is a measurable restriction at idle, then there is only one possible conslusion as to its effects at higher flows.

 

Did you have the thermovac vacuum line plugged while the air cleaner was off?

The Action+ is intended to fit on the engine. The factory changed so much the way the same engine fits into different chassis combinations that it isn't reasonable to expect the aftermarket to cover all those bases (the factory didn't even cover all the bases with their own product). That just means you put on your thinking cap and work through those issues.

Go ahead and reverify normal tuning settings. The dwell probably didn't change, but it wouldn't hurt to check.

My CCC is quite happy with the 2050. But, I have fully ported heads and a higher stall converter as well.

DR rods on a B hanger seems to be a trouble-free combo for the majority of people.

(Another example of aftermarket can't anticipate all combos: I've been looking at Patriot headers for my '57, because they have larger primaries than Hedman but smaller than Hooker. But, they say, "Can't be used if engine is moved forward by more than 3/4"." Well, I have aftermarket mounts that move the engine forward 1". I called them up to verify, and they basically said they used a car with the engine moved forward 3/4" to mock up the headers, so they can't guarantee they'll fit with 1" forward. Does that mean they can't be made to work on my car? Probably not, especially considering what I did to get the headers in that I've got right now.)

 

What're the specs on that 2050 cam? Ive got a Comp XE262 in my car under the CCC, and it runs beautifully. 218/224@.050, and its got .462/.469 lift on it. Mine's also on a 350, with DR rods and a B hangar completing the mix. Im wondering how much cam one could step up to with that CCC. I plan on supercharging my car in the future, and will try to get it to run with the CCC on top. Its should work, I hope

 

5-7. here's why I got the cam I selected (the 2040)......
"Mid & upper range torque & HP" for 305HO & 350 TPI w/3.73.
Adv. Duration: 270º/276º
Gross Lift: .440''/.454''
Series: 2040

I don't have fully ported aftermarket heads that could take advantage of the cam you have..
Serious performance for modified 305 5-spd. & 350 w/3.73-up.
Adv. Duration: 272º/284º
Gross Lift: .454''/.480''
Series: 2050

I didn't realize that you were still running the CCC!!! How's the idle with that cam?

Yeah, I plan on going back over everything....dwell etc....

I took it out today, and the idle is irradic....seems to not want to idle unless fully warm, and even then, it seems to change from the 800 RPM I set it at to 1000 RPM's at other times.

I'm going to "tinker" with it a bit more - but I sense a possible vacuum leak. Recheck the intake bolts for tightness etc.

I don't see how it could be a leak though because I followed the instuctions to the letter.

And yes the thermac was plugged when I set the idle and timing as well as the purge line for the canister.

And RB..... the voice of reason......what you're saying makes sense, but I refuse to admit the stock air cleaner can be restricting me...I may have other issues.

 

Idles smoothly at 500 RPMs in gear.