berklified

is this carb considered to be a HO (High Output) Carb

thanks guys
-mark-

Odyssey

uhh no.

berklified

what would be considered to be a high output carb

-sorry new to carbs-
mark

82camaro

I wouldn't classify any carb as high output or not high output. However, there is a correct size carb for each application that will produce maximum power. What do you need this carb for? Engine specs, car specs(tranny, rear gears, etc...) Given that info, 'we' can probably tell you what will work best.

305sbc

iTrader: (3)

I would consider Holley 4 barrels to be high output.
Mainly because they output more flames out the top,
and more fuel past the gaskets than all the other carbs put together.

berklified

the specs on my camaro are a little different


-the body is a 1982
-original engine was V6 with a manual 4 speed


-i did not do this swap, i bought the car after this had been done
-it now has a 1988 5.7L 350
-came out of the 88 camaro so i am told
-used to be TPI, now has a 4 barrel 600cfm edelbrock carb

-"more then 90% sure its a 600cfm"

as for the transmission it's an automatic 4 speed, and it would seem as though the 5.7L was never available with manual, so i hope you know what the gears are, and if so perhaps you could tell me.

is it the original transmission? i have no idea



i am trying to estimate what my horsepower is on my car now that it is no longer TPI

thanks for the help guys, this site is essential in owning a do-it-yourselfer car

-mark-

86BirdSE

By gearing, "we" mean rear end gear ratio. Your V6 camaro probably had (assuming the rear was not changed in it) a 3.23 or a 3.08 rear gear ratio. Use the RPO decoder on this site in conjunction with your RPO code option sticker in the glovebox of the center console.

The 88 motors have a roller cam from the factory which allows more air to flow... I'd say 600 might be a tad on the small side, but is a great place to start from.

I would guess it's close to the same as the TPI, IF the carb is tuned properly, and timing set to it's optimum. I hope you have a non-computer controlled Distributor on the engine, because if it's it won't start/not running, there's your answer.

berklified

so you think 600cfm is on the small side eh,
would the 750cfm be better choice?

and if so would i have to remove catalytic converters in order to actually make a difference?

i also recently had starting problems, and when i took my distributor apart i found that there was a crack in the back, which i am told, allows moisture to seep in and not allow warm......NOT HOT.....or overnight cold.......starts, and that was exactly the problem i had

i live in ottawa.......haha bye bye flyers.....jk
and since my body is an 82 that;s over 20 years and i do not have to deal with emissions testing, so if i can get the funds together, do you guys recommend taking off the catalytic converters and increasing to a 750cfm carb?

-mark-
GO SENS GO

86BirdSE

do you want my help or not??!!

Anywho, with headders, and aftermarket intake, no catalytic convertor and a good exhaust system, a 750 would be my carb choice so you will have enough flow to support a bigger cam down the line....

But a 600 will work just as fine, and give you better mileage for everyday driving. Was the Distributor housing cracked, or just the plastic cap? If it's the plastic cap, just bring in the old cap to have it matched up. Most of the Parts Monkeys at the parts chains look at you funny when you ask for a part not originally equipped on the car.

berklified

thanks for the help, good to know that 600cfm will be lighter on the wallet although i've done the math and it's roughly 20.5L/100km city and highway combined

i start school next year, mechanical engineering, so i will have to party with my baby for 8 months out of the year, but after i finish school i want to set up a shop and overhaul the thing, i would like to rip off the converters, new cam, and 750 carb

i know this is a 3rd generation site but it would be cool to restore a 1970 chevelle ss454 LS6

for future reference what would the best carb be?
holley or edelbrock or what?

i did take in the cap and it was just the plastic, it was an accel and it took the salesperson a while to realize that it's an accel and that the coil is mounted on top and then they quickly grabbed the right one for me

thanks for all your help guys
much appreciated
-mark-

86BirdSE

well...

It's a diverse opinion here. I've worked mostly with Q-jets, and I have a new 600 cfm Edelbrock I have yet to use on anything.

Holleys will be the cheapest to obtain and rebuild. Q-Jets are bolt-ons and yield decent mileage.

It's all a personal call. Do a search and you'll find some heated carb discussion topics.

MIG-29

open your hood and look straight at the base left (your left) of the carb, if it says 1406 is a 600cfm, if it says 1407 is a 750cfm.
mine is a 350 (5.7) with 416 heads (5L HO), an edelbrock 1406, a mild cam and a 5 speed T-5, and its pure rock and roll.
i have it leaned 2 stages on the power and on the cruise side, and it still rocks, i just love it.

F-BIRD'88

No need to go to a bigger carb on that car till you've upgraded
every other motor part first. it is not holding you back.
Having a good ignition system is much more imprortant.

Go to .Luskville Dragway or The new strip near ottawa and get a time on your car. (test and tune night) The MPH on the time slip is a good indicator of the Horsepower of your motor.
There are many 1/4 mile -- RWHP calculators online
to get a good idea of your motor's power output.
Gross BHP is about 18 to 22% more than RWHP

There's your first lesson in practical mechanical engineering.

Here is a page with the horsepower -- 1/4 mile MPH calc.



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