Post Your Carb'd Motor Pics
#101
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Car: 87 Camaro
Engine: Chevy V8
Transmission: auto
Originally posted by Motor City Mike
They're custom made stainless steel "step" headers that go from 2 1/8" to 2 1/4", and has 4" collectors. I had to have them made since the engine/trans has been repositioned.
They're custom made stainless steel "step" headers that go from 2 1/8" to 2 1/4", and has 4" collectors. I had to have them made since the engine/trans has been repositioned.
Daz
#102
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Car: 87 Camaro LT
Engine: ZZ4, AFR195, XR276-HR
Transmission: 700R4, Transgo
Here's mine at the last car show before I ripped her out again
Last edited by MizfitCreations; 12-07-2003 at 12:18 PM.
#104
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Car: '82 Trans Am
Engine: Blown 540 BBC
Transmission: TH475
Axle/Gears: Dana 60, 4.10 w/spool
Originally posted by Daz
Got pics of the exhaust around the collector area..Im having a bit of clearance problem between the collector and the SFC
Daz
Got pics of the exhaust around the collector area..Im having a bit of clearance problem between the collector and the SFC
Daz
#107
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Car: '82 Trans Am
Engine: Blown 540 BBC
Transmission: TH475
Axle/Gears: Dana 60, 4.10 w/spool
Originally posted by mw66nova
are you running full exhaust or just headers...4" exhaust sounds bad....:rockon:
are you running full exhaust or just headers...4" exhaust sounds bad....:rockon:
#108
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Car: 1991 Super Sport
Engine: 388 ci
Transmission: TH-700R4, 3500 Stall
Me likes.... It's sooooo good to know that I am not the only one in the III Gen class running old school carb's! Yeah, cold starts suck, but the power is worth it. Can someone please e-mail me or post (that is those running carbed III Gens with over 500HP) what fuel pump your running and how you adapted it from TBI or TPI to carb for pumps? I am thinking of holley blue, but is that enough? Do I just splice into the fuel line and run that pump and let her rip?
Better yet, let me make a poll (a small one)
What fuel pump do you (carbed folks) use? Why? Easy usage?
Thanks
Better yet, let me make a poll (a small one)
What fuel pump do you (carbed folks) use? Why? Easy usage?
Thanks
#109
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Car: 85 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
No ones answered my question yet so i figured ide give it a shot in here. im swapping to carb. 350 soon, and i just bought a SS hood that came in last night. just wondering about intake manifold and breather clearence? i wanna run a RPM intake, but their kinda tall, so i didnt know if the hood will shut.
#110
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Originally posted by mw66nova
update on my motor...Philedelphia Racing Products cable bracket, ac delete box in. the cable bracket is bad. ya'll should check it out if you have a chance.
update on my motor...Philedelphia Racing Products cable bracket, ac delete box in. the cable bracket is bad. ya'll should check it out if you have a chance.
#111
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hey, if you can make it, more power too ya! i love the way mine looks though. It's CNC Machined and like 5/16" thick with the blue anodized finish.
as far as the fuel pump deal goes, i like mechanical stuff. i am going to upgrade my stock replacement mechanical to a mechanical edelbrock performer street pump. should support 550 n/a horsepower. it's like $74 through jegs and doesn't require a FPR like most electric pumps.
here's a pic of the edelbrock pump
as far as the fuel pump deal goes, i like mechanical stuff. i am going to upgrade my stock replacement mechanical to a mechanical edelbrock performer street pump. should support 550 n/a horsepower. it's like $74 through jegs and doesn't require a FPR like most electric pumps.
here's a pic of the edelbrock pump
#112
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Car: '82 Trans Am
Engine: Blown 540 BBC
Transmission: TH475
Axle/Gears: Dana 60, 4.10 w/spool
Originally posted by mw66nova
as far as the fuel pump deal goes, i like mechanical stuff. i am going to upgrade my stock replacement mechanical to a mechanical edelbrock performer street pump. should support 550 n/a horsepower. it's like $74 through jegs and doesn't require a FPR like most electric pumps.
here's a pic of the edelbrock pump
as far as the fuel pump deal goes, i like mechanical stuff. i am going to upgrade my stock replacement mechanical to a mechanical edelbrock performer street pump. should support 550 n/a horsepower. it's like $74 through jegs and doesn't require a FPR like most electric pumps.
here's a pic of the edelbrock pump
#115
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Car: 1991 Super Sport
Engine: 388 ci
Transmission: TH-700R4, 3500 Stall
First: lilthurmy03 with that SS hood you should clear your set up, just by the hair of your chin. I did it with a 3" cowl hood. and could have did it with a 1". You will be okay.
Second: You guys would rather run a mech pump than a elct pump? why? I am new to the carb swap pump stuff, but was told stay with the stock in tank pump, ad a elct holley pump (any brand) and a AFPR and that is the best? Don't you have to get in the gas tank and set something up for the mech pump to work on switching from TBI to carb?
Second: You guys would rather run a mech pump than a elct pump? why? I am new to the carb swap pump stuff, but was told stay with the stock in tank pump, ad a elct holley pump (any brand) and a AFPR and that is the best? Don't you have to get in the gas tank and set something up for the mech pump to work on switching from TBI to carb?
#116
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first off, if you have a fuel injection pump in tank then it should be putting out like 50psi, you don't need a second pump. just run a 3way reg. with one going to the return line. yes, if you run a mechanical pump, you need to drop the tank and pull in the intank pump out, extend the pickup and then put the tank back in. also, take out the inline fuel filter. put one AFTER the mech. pump, before the carb. sounds like quite the motor you got for not knowing alot about carb swaps....hope this board helps...
second, a mechanical pump will go as long as the engine is on. the electric pumps have to be wired into the system, and with my luck with electricity, i will blow fuses all day long. they are also very LOUD! i am also going to run a procharger with a blow=thru cap on a 650dp. with a mechanical pump, all i have to do is plumb a vacuum line to the top of the pump from the hat on top of the carb for boost control. with an electric, you need all kinds of regulators and stuff. i guess i am just old school. i think that this way is cheaper and easier. the money i save on the pump will go into getting nice braded line and all AN fittings and stuff.
second, a mechanical pump will go as long as the engine is on. the electric pumps have to be wired into the system, and with my luck with electricity, i will blow fuses all day long. they are also very LOUD! i am also going to run a procharger with a blow=thru cap on a 650dp. with a mechanical pump, all i have to do is plumb a vacuum line to the top of the pump from the hat on top of the carb for boost control. with an electric, you need all kinds of regulators and stuff. i guess i am just old school. i think that this way is cheaper and easier. the money i save on the pump will go into getting nice braded line and all AN fittings and stuff.
Last edited by mw66nova; 12-12-2003 at 02:12 PM.
#117
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Car: 1991 Super Sport
Engine: 388 ci
Transmission: TH-700R4, 3500 Stall
Originally posted by mw66nova
first off, if you have a fuel injection pump in tank then it should be putting out like 50psi, you don't need a second pump. just run a 3way reg. with one going to the return line. yes, if you run a mechanical pump, you need to drop the tank and pull in the intank pump out, extend the pickup and then put the tank back in. also, take out the inline fuel filter. put one AFTER the mech. pump, before the carb. sounds like quite the motor you got for not knowing alot about carb swaps....hope this board helps...
first off, if you have a fuel injection pump in tank then it should be putting out like 50psi, you don't need a second pump. just run a 3way reg. with one going to the return line. yes, if you run a mechanical pump, you need to drop the tank and pull in the intank pump out, extend the pickup and then put the tank back in. also, take out the inline fuel filter. put one AFTER the mech. pump, before the carb. sounds like quite the motor you got for not knowing alot about carb swaps....hope this board helps...
Okay, first I am not coming off as a jerk, but the line you said above "sounds like quite the motor you got for not knowing alot about carb swaps" is just why I came to this board (the carb board). I have been dealing with 3rd gens for years now, but only EFI third gens. This is my first carb swap and that is why I have a few questions. To say that "my TBI in tank pump that puts out like 50psi will work for my set up" is WRONG! Sorry to say, but I have the set up running just that way, with the TBI pump and a holley AFPR set at 7psi for my carb. That works at idle, but as soon as I give her some gas, she dies like it's not getting enough fuel. Which is why I ask about the eltc pump. The eltc pump would be easier to install that dropping my tank to use a mech pump that would more than likely cost me more on the mech pump, something that will support the HP I have going. I have talked to many people on this board about this already. When switching from EFI to carb, the stock EFI pump will not support the carb. The PSI on the stock pump is to low. I know this now after reading posts that said just what you said above "just run the stock pump with an AFPR and it will be fine." NOT TRUE! So I ask, will a holley blue be enough for a over 500 HP motor (carbed)? And later down the road a 200 shot of n2o? Will I have to use 2 holley blue pumps to support that much HP? Right now my car will only start and idle, maybe a little gas around the block, but when it comes to hitting the gas hard, or even a little hard, she dies out, not enough fuel, BECAUSE I am using the stock TBI pump with an AFPR which will not support a carb set up such that I am running. Maybe it works for folks that just take off the TBI and put a carb on the stock 305 or 350, but not for a built 388 stroker.
I am not trying to be rude, I do need experiance and help in this matter, and your thoughts are needed, however, I do have knowledge about carbs, racing, motors, ect... Just not carb swaping from EFI. I am learning, and this board is my key to it all and all you guys who have helped me.
My goal now, after returning from Iraq, is to get this beast running strong for this summer. I just need fuel pressure to support it, so I ask what is the best way? I would like to use a holley blue (because of the price, you cannot beat it).
Thanks for the help, and yes it is quite the motor!
#118
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Car: 1991 Super Sport
Engine: 388 ci
Transmission: TH-700R4, 3500 Stall
Also mw66nove, could you e-mail me some more pics of your set up, it's clean like I like it, you removed all the A/C and heater ****, washer fluid bottle, etc... I did the same, however, again I need information and pics on what else (that I have not already removed) can I take out.
Already I took out everything on the passanger side (a/c, heater, all it looks like your with the holes from the items left in the fire wall, which I will cover with a pice of sheet metal soon), removed the windshield wipers, the motor, wht else and can you send me pics?
Thanks
Already I took out everything on the passanger side (a/c, heater, all it looks like your with the holes from the items left in the fire wall, which I will cover with a pice of sheet metal soon), removed the windshield wipers, the motor, wht else and can you send me pics?
Thanks
#119
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Car: 92RS
Engine: LS 402 inwork
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt,3:73's
Here's the 388 it used to have, that was until the oil pump pickup head came off and toasted it!! Oh well it lasted 6 yrs and it ran 11's before it gave in.
#120
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Originally posted by mw66nova
hey, if you can make it, more power too ya! i love the way mine looks though. It's CNC Machined and like 5/16" thick with the blue anodized finish.
hey, if you can make it, more power too ya! i love the way mine looks though. It's CNC Machined and like 5/16" thick with the blue anodized finish.
#123
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Car: 92RS
Engine: LS 402 inwork
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt,3:73's
Originally posted by GOFASTER
When switching from EFI to carb, the stock EFI pump will not support the carb. The PSI on the stock pump is to low. I know this now after reading posts that said just what you said above "just run the stock pump with an AFPR and it will be fine." NOT TRUE! So I ask, will a holley blue be enough for a over 500 HP motor (carbed)? And later down the road a 200 shot of n2o? Will I have to use 2 holley blue pumps to support that much HP? Right now my car will only start and idle, maybe a little gas around the block, but when it comes to hitting the gas hard, or even a little hard, she dies out, not enough fuel, BECAUSE I am using the stock TBI pump with an AFPR which will not support a carb set up such that I am running. Maybe it works for folks that just take off the TBI and put a carb on the stock 305 or 350, but not for a built 388 stroker.
When switching from EFI to carb, the stock EFI pump will not support the carb. The PSI on the stock pump is to low. I know this now after reading posts that said just what you said above "just run the stock pump with an AFPR and it will be fine." NOT TRUE! So I ask, will a holley blue be enough for a over 500 HP motor (carbed)? And later down the road a 200 shot of n2o? Will I have to use 2 holley blue pumps to support that much HP? Right now my car will only start and idle, maybe a little gas around the block, but when it comes to hitting the gas hard, or even a little hard, she dies out, not enough fuel, BECAUSE I am using the stock TBI pump with an AFPR which will not support a carb set up such that I am running. Maybe it works for folks that just take off the TBI and put a carb on the stock 305 or 350, but not for a built 388 stroker.
#124
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Car: 1992 RS Camaro bracket car
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH-350
I am using a cheap TBI replacement pump in tank w/Mallory regulator feeding a 750 Holley without fuel delivery issues. Even still using return line to tank.
#125
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Car: 1991 Super Sport
Engine: 388 ci
Transmission: TH-700R4, 3500 Stall
Then why is my car dying out when I give it gas? I was told (now) 2 different things that stock TBI pump will not support my set up, and now a few of you guys telling me something different? Cany anyone help me out? Do I need a eletc pump to support this or what? Why is my car dying out when I give it gas (with tranny in drive)? It's like once I give it gas and she starts to get moving, she just dies out???? HELP, I don't want to waste more money, because I just spend major bucks on a new fuel set up... Thanks for the help, this dying out when I give it gas is killing me????
My mods are listed below::::
HELP
My mods are listed below::::
HELP
#128
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Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
ouch, mine looked like that but dead center. a lot of work to fix that stuff man. did you bent the brackets the bumper bolts too? man i hope i never do that again
#130
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
figured i might as well join in on this fun thread once in my life....lol...these are from cardomain site.
#131
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Car: 1991 Super Sport
Engine: 388 ci
Transmission: TH-700R4, 3500 Stall
Okay, once I can get some pics I will post them. I figured out why my car was dying out when under a load. The plugs where dead and the fuel line had a kink in it, not allowing enough fuel to enter the carb when at a load. I also put a 140 GPH eletc pump, new fuel lines and a new fuel pressure gauge to be sure it would not happen again. With the right set of NGK plugs and the pump, I hope she will be running right very soon. Also had to get a min-starter, as the new one I got (a regular size one) was rubbing up against the headers and getting rattled all to hell. So, I got a new mini-starter to go along with it. Will tune her up and see what happens. Pics to come soon...
#133
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Nothin' special or fancy "orange and chrome don't get ya home" Looks kinda different nowadays with a few more goodies bolted on...
#134
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Car: Looking
Nice pics everyone.
I'm going to begin building my 383 in teh next few months.
What block did everyone use to get the alternator set up to mount on teh pass. side?
Is it just a new bracket or something?
I just pulled my A/C, and smog stuff is comin off this week.
How'd you do it? Anyone fit a carb/aircleaner under a 2'' cowl?
I'm going to begin building my 383 in teh next few months.
What block did everyone use to get the alternator set up to mount on teh pass. side?
Is it just a new bracket or something?
I just pulled my A/C, and smog stuff is comin off this week.
How'd you do it? Anyone fit a carb/aircleaner under a 2'' cowl?
#135
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Car: 92RS
Engine: LS 402 inwork
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt,3:73's
No special blocks used to mount the Alt. over there, heck mine isn't even bolted to the block, it attaches to the water pump. I bought the brackets from March (the company that makes underdrive pulleys). And about the air cleaner fitting under a 2 inch cowl hood, mine fits under a small scoop i mounted on my hood, after i cut a whole in it!
#141
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Car: 1985 IROC Z-28
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Only the best...........ram air. Cut out in the front and the back. And with that air cleaner, it gets all the fresh air it can handle. When I put the hood on, I had to bump the jet size up one.
#143
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Car: 1985 IROC Z-28
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 3:73
We just had the annual Houston Thirdgen gathering, and I had the only thirdgen carburated car there. WooHoo!!!!!!!!!!!! I can fix my car without a computer!
#147
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Car: 1985 IROC Z-28
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Things you will never hear me say;
1. I think my tps needs to be adjusted.
2. I need a scan tool so I can see why my check engine light is on.(bulb removed)
3. I wonder if my total timing is right.
4. I might have a dirty injector.
5.Changing the fuel pump is REALLY gonna suck!
6. 8 new injectors are HOW MUCH???????????????
7. I need to have my plemun ported.
8. I have a bad o2 sensor.
9.etc.......
1. I think my tps needs to be adjusted.
2. I need a scan tool so I can see why my check engine light is on.(bulb removed)
3. I wonder if my total timing is right.
4. I might have a dirty injector.
5.Changing the fuel pump is REALLY gonna suck!
6. 8 new injectors are HOW MUCH???????????????
7. I need to have my plemun ported.
8. I have a bad o2 sensor.
9.etc.......
#148
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
you'll never hear me say ....that bad "e" word
emmissions aren't around here with show car insurance and only driving under 500 miles or so a year.
emmissions aren't around here with show car insurance and only driving under 500 miles or so a year.
#149
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Car: '94 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
man ron, that march pulley system is awesome in your car! i wish i had $300+ to spend on pulleys.
So hell no belt throwing & less rotating mass, made it an easy buy for me.
-----
Hey Barry, what about OPEN LOOP???? pun or what?
Have to file that next to safer bullet
Ron
#150
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Car: 1985 IROC Z-28
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Originally posted by ronterry
Hey Barry, what about OPEN LOOP???? pun or what?
Have to file that next to safer bullet
Ron
Hey Barry, what about OPEN LOOP???? pun or what?
Have to file that next to safer bullet
Ron