This came off my 305 from an 84 Camaro Berlinetta. My question is "Is it a CC Carb?"
Well, here's the deal. I have a 350 that I'm building. I would like to purchase a Holley intake that I can use with this carb for the time being. I plan on getting a Holley carb once I get the funds. If it is CC what issues will I have when I put a non-CC carb (Holley) on later. Will I have to do anything with the distributor at that point, like change it to a vaccum advance? One other question, can I get a Holley with the bolt pattern as the Q-Jet or should I get the intake with the Holley carb bolt pattern? Thank you for all the help in advance.
Scott

 

yes its computer controlled, you can tell by the blue and white connectors. To run a non computer controlled carb on a car with a computer, you will need to replace the distributor with a vac. advance dist. If you have a lockup tranny, you will also need to get a kit for the lockup of the torque converter, you can get that at jegs or summit. As for the bolt pattern, they make adapter plates, so you can bolt a holley on a spreadbore (q-jet) intake, and a quadrajet on a square bore(holley) intake if you use one of them. If the q-jet is temporary, i would go with a square bore intake, so you wont have to use an adapter plate when you finally get the holley on.

 

I don't know of any aftermarket intake with a spread-bore mount that isn't also drilled for square-bore.

But, I don't know everything.

Why do you want to take off the best street/performance carb/ignition and replace it with a Holley?

 

I have no problem keeping the Q-Jet. Will it be a good carb for a 350 w/ 9.73:1 compression and a bigger cam? What I’m looking for is more performance than fuel-efficient. I will not have the EGR or any emissions on the car and will be going with headers w/no catalysts converter.
I like the idea that the intakes will work for both bolt patterns.

 

The CC carb will put out as much power as a Holley.

Only possible issue is part-throttle pinging w/o EGR. I'd recommend you consider an Action+ EGR or GMPP manifold and keep the EGR. No cats isn't an issue.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=EDL%2D2692

Thats what you would need to bolt the q-jet onto a holley style intake. Now that I look im not sure your can go the other way and bolt a holley on a spreadbore intake, so I would just get a squarebore intake, then you could go either way.

 

The adapter will work either direction.

I like my recommendation a whole lot better. The two manifolds I suggested both take either spread- or square-bore carbs, no adapters (and their additional height, gaskets, and costs) required.

Since you don't already have the Holley manifold, forget about it and get one of the offerings that will take the q-jet now; and if you really, really want to, a Holley later.

 

Thank you for all the advice so far. Now, it looks like I can go either way on the intake. The Action plus and no adaptor or the Holley and an adapter. No problem there. I guess the next choice is to go with the EGR or not.
1. If I decide to use the Q-Jet and not an aftermarket then I should go with the EGR. This way all other components will work well.
2. If I decide to go with an aftermarket carb later I would not need the EGR but I would have to change a lot of other stuff (Dist., Torque converter lock and maybe other things.)
Is this the correct decision I need to make now?

 

Those are the correct scenarios for the decision you have in front of you.

Another thing to consider: The Holley Dominator square-bore mount intakes are already high-rise. Add an adapter on top of that, you'd better have a cowl hood.

The GMPP intake, when on a crate motor like the ZZ4, comes with EGR and heat riser block-off plates. I'm not sure if they're included if you buy the manifold direct.

Holley also makes non-EGR, spread- or square-bore intakes in the Street Dominator line. Not too impressive, though.

 

So, would it make sense to put the intake from my 305 onto the 350 and use the Q-Jet CC-Carb? And, if I decide to change my whole ignition and fuel system I can do that then. It would be savings by not having to buy a new intake.

I have ripped out all the hoses and components so does anyone have a picture of where the hose goes to from the EGR. I just assumed I would not put any of that stuff back on..I'm glad I saved the O2 sensor..

 

This should be close.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/att...postid=1395821

 

If you are ditching the emissions, including the computer and O2 sensor in the exhaust you can't use that carb. The ECM is REQUIRED in order to adjust the A/F ratio with that carb. Unless you are keeping the ECM, the various engine sensors, the O2 sensor in the exhaust and the matching computer controlled HEI distributor it won't run right.

Exactly what are you ditching off the motor? Just getting rid of the EGR valve could cause minor problems. Going with headers that can't take an O2 sensor you're definitely going to have problems.

Once you take just one minor part away from the ECM you're better off ditching both the computer controlled carb and the computer controlled distributor and going with older mechanical-only systems if you expect any kind of performance and economy out of the motor.

 

Damon, I have pulled out the original engine and trans. I just got back, tonight; a 350 bored .030 over with 9.7:1 compression pistons. Beside the emissions (smog stuff) I was going to eliminate the EGR valve by purchasing an intake w/o the EGR. I was going to have the O2 sensor put into a set of Headman headers I have for the car. And I was planning on still using the Q-Jet and distributor that came on the car. The car is the digital dash and I wanted to keep the tach in working condition, so I figured I need to keep the carb and dist.
I was just told tonight, from the guy at the machine shop, that I could eliminate the EGR and I would be fine. The only problem I would run into would be the Check engine light..Which is kind of opposite of the advice I have received. He has been doing this kind of work for some time now and the mechanics at the local Chevy dealer take their stuff to him. So, I kind of have faith in what he says.

I'm still a little confused....but I think I getting there. I just hate to try something that I'm not fully sure about.

 

Will it run? Yes. Will it run it's best? Probably not. Will it light the "check engine" light? Possibly.

First the performance: Wide open throttle, no problem at all. ECM isn't looking at the O2 or any other piece of emissions equipment at that point so you're good to go.

Drivability: Gets into a "gray area." The ECM bumps up the spark advance at part throttle, assuming the EGR valve is present and functioning. EGR gasses help keep part throttle combustion temps low for better emissions. When the EGR valve is open the ECM can advance the spark quite a bit farther without detonation. Runnign without the EGR valve it'll still be putting in the added spark advance but there will be no EGR gasses there to complement it. Possible result- part throttle detonation. You're gonna have to see how your particular combo reacts and judge if this is a problem or not.

Check engine light: LOTSA little gremlins here. You MUST have the EGR vacuum solenoid still plugged into the computer (2 or 3-wire connector electronic solenoid in the middle of the vacuum line system between the carb and the EGR valve). If it doesn't see it plugged in it'll freak and immediately light the check engine light.

If it sees no vacuum at that sensor it'll freak and EVENTUALLY light the check engine light.

Even if you leave it all in place and just plug the vacuum line where it would have plugged into the stock EGR valve (which is no longer present, obviously) it might STILL light the check engine light. The ECM has no way of DIRECTLY knowing if the EGR valve is functioning or not (or even if it's actually there). But it can INFER it's functioning from looking at other sensors under certain conditions. I don't know exactly how it does this but.............. if you get a "check engine" light when cruising at a constant throttle on the highway after 5 minutes of so, this is almost certainly what is causing it. Some people can ditch the EGR and never have a problem, while others get the dreaded check engine light. I'm not sure of the fine details on this issue, but you should be aware of it's existance.