can I Use A Mechanical Fuel Pump With The Intank Still In Place!
#1
can I Use A Mechanical Fuel Pump With The Intank Still In Place!
just as the subject says. can i keep the intank fuel pump in the tank if i go to a mechanical fuel pump. v6-v8 swap. i disengaged the electric pump so that i could run a mechanical to the carb. next question, should i just slap my dad's holley blue pump on it? i don't know what to do anymore.
#2
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Although some have gotten by otherwise, the only way I would keep an in-tank electric pump in the system is if it was powered and operating. If you are disconnecting it, drop the tank and remove it. Yes, a mechanical or Blue pump may be able to suck through it, but why ask it to? You are doing no better than getting by with it there and inoperative.
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Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Mine does.
1977 350 with stock unchanged fuel pump pulling through TBi in tank pump with no problems.
Try it first. May save you a job.
Andy.
1977 350 with stock unchanged fuel pump pulling through TBi in tank pump with no problems.
Try it first. May save you a job.
Andy.
#4
i tried, it didn't work. i put the holley pump on it, still didn't work. got some blockage in the line somewhere. gonna get on it tomorrow. i also am going to pull the tank and build a pickup. i guess i was just trying save time/aggrivation. thanks anyways guys.
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Car: '94 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
It's really not as bad as it seems to pull those tanks out.
Granted I don't need to worry about the exhaust, but that would probably be the hardest part - removing it.
Oh yea, get the chassis as high off the ground as you can. Now's the time to think about springs & shocks, and maybe a nice panhard bar?
Also, it sounds like the pump may have fragmented so nothing can get through, or the strainer is clogged so bad that the mech pump can't pull through it?
----
When I did mine I didn't even attempt it, because I knew it would be a horrible restriction - especially if you want to throw in some more horse power.
Just put a piece of 3/8 fuel line w/ 60° or so cut at the end, in place of the dead pump.
AND DRAIN THE TANK before droping it, because at 6 pound per gallon, it adds up
As far as worring about a restriction in the line, just blast some compress air through it, and you'll know...
Ron
Granted I don't need to worry about the exhaust, but that would probably be the hardest part - removing it.
Oh yea, get the chassis as high off the ground as you can. Now's the time to think about springs & shocks, and maybe a nice panhard bar?
Also, it sounds like the pump may have fragmented so nothing can get through, or the strainer is clogged so bad that the mech pump can't pull through it?
----
When I did mine I didn't even attempt it, because I knew it would be a horrible restriction - especially if you want to throw in some more horse power.
Just put a piece of 3/8 fuel line w/ 60° or so cut at the end, in place of the dead pump.
AND DRAIN THE TANK before droping it, because at 6 pound per gallon, it adds up
As far as worring about a restriction in the line, just blast some compress air through it, and you'll know...
Ron
Last edited by ronterry; 11-06-2003 at 07:53 PM.
#6
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Car: 92 RS 25th Anniversary Edition
Engine: treefiddy
Transmission: 700R4
Why not use the intank with a mallory fuel pressure regulator (p/n 4309) that has the bypass return line?
#7
Originally posted by classicgm
Why not use the intank with a mallory fuel pressure regulator (p/n 4309) that has the bypass return line?
Why not use the intank with a mallory fuel pressure regulator (p/n 4309) that has the bypass return line?
i don't need to worry about exhaust either....
can't do shocks/springs/panhard rod, wasting all my money on FUEL SYSTEM! AHHHHHHH!!!!! so tired of working on this, just wanna drive it.
i'm going to pull the pump out of the tank and install a piece of tubing where it goes. i will also pull the inline fuel filter, put a piece of tubing in its place. then run the mechanical fuel pump, and a filter AFTER the pump.
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#8
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Car: '94 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
That's it!
In your photo if you can get the stands that high, but put the stands under the chassis - you’re set.
You’re going to want that rear end to hang down as far as possible once everything to it is disconnected. Except for the driveshaft & torque arm, you can leave those connected.
The hole point is to give room for that bas*a*d filler neck.
Oh yea, don't forget to take out the bolt that holds the rear brake block to the rear end. I almost forgot once, and it almost ripped the freaking brake hoses out. Don't want that!
BTW: As far running the filter after the pump is perfect. Mech pumps don't need all that micro particle protection like electrics.
Good Luck, lets us know how it's going.
Ron
In your photo if you can get the stands that high, but put the stands under the chassis - you’re set.
You’re going to want that rear end to hang down as far as possible once everything to it is disconnected. Except for the driveshaft & torque arm, you can leave those connected.
The hole point is to give room for that bas*a*d filler neck.
Oh yea, don't forget to take out the bolt that holds the rear brake block to the rear end. I almost forgot once, and it almost ripped the freaking brake hoses out. Don't want that!
BTW: As far running the filter after the pump is perfect. Mech pumps don't need all that micro particle protection like electrics.
Good Luck, lets us know how it's going.
Ron
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Car: 92 RS 25th Anniversary Edition
Engine: treefiddy
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by mw66nova
cause the people that have done this seem to have problems with the fittings holding the pressure. i am not going to waste $75 on something that only works in some cases.
cause the people that have done this seem to have problems with the fittings holding the pressure. i am not going to waste $75 on something that only works in some cases.
#10
Originally posted by classicgm
To do it right with the proper fittings, it will take more than $75 so OK drop that tank
To do it right with the proper fittings, it will take more than $75 so OK drop that tank
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Car: Turbo Buick
Engine: 3.8 V6
who did running a regulator with the efi pump not work for?
I dont know anyone and i know several people who have done the EFI to carb swap and are running the original pump with a regulator.
I myself am running a high volume pump with a NOS external regulator with cheapo brass fittings and parts store hose clamps and have run pressures from 5 psi to 50 psi (ive run FI on my engine aswell) and never had a problem for years now. You arent increasing the pressure you are REDUCING the pressure with the regulator.
A pump is a pump, believing that what its marketed for is WHAT IT MUST BE USED ON is up to you. I prefer to think outside the box
I dont know anyone and i know several people who have done the EFI to carb swap and are running the original pump with a regulator.
I myself am running a high volume pump with a NOS external regulator with cheapo brass fittings and parts store hose clamps and have run pressures from 5 psi to 50 psi (ive run FI on my engine aswell) and never had a problem for years now. You arent increasing the pressure you are REDUCING the pressure with the regulator.
A pump is a pump, believing that what its marketed for is WHAT IT MUST BE USED ON is up to you. I prefer to think outside the box
Last edited by Pablo; 11-07-2003 at 04:41 PM.
#12
wanted to let ya'll know that the car is up and running! i drove it to work last night and everything works great. i am having some problem adjusting my kickdown cable because of the single plane runner design of the intake. (the bracket hits the runners so i can't adjust it properly) i am putting a dual plane on it next week, so i will fixt that problem and probably gain that much more bottom end. you guys were a huge help, thank you...
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