300hpse

iTrader: (2)

car is in sig, has a non-cc qjet from the late 70's, vac secondaries and elec. choke (and adjustments the require "special" tools ). On anywhere from a 20 to 40 degree night, the choke/high idle (2000 rpms) will not come off (via quick throttle to the floor) until the car has warmed up for like 10-15 minutes and the temp is beyond the dash on the gauge betwwen 100 and 220. If i tap it after about 5 min. it goes down to about 1500 rpms but once again will not drop to normal operating speed for some time.

This seems a little excessive, can this be adjusted or fixed or controlled somehow? Or am i stuck sitting in my car parked for a half an hour a night guzzling away gas? Thanx for any help.

Apeiron

All you need to adjust it is a drill and a few self-tapping screws. Drill out the rivets holding the choke cover on and replace them with the screws.

CbrasTsteLkChk

It could just be that your choke pull off pump isn't holding the vacuum or is stuck, either one possibly

CbrasTsteLkChk

Just another quick thought, try lubbing your carb moving parts real good.

sqzbox

Yup, too much choke! If the choke door is slaped shut, it doesn't make any difference how many times you kick it, it's not going to come off fast idle till it gets good and warm. You need to take some tension off the choke door. Drilling out the rivets and rotating the cap to 1/8 to 1/4 in between the air horn and the choke blade should help.
Special tools required; drill, bit, ingeniuty, 3 self taping screws!

300hpse

iTrader: (2)

the chokes already been made adjustable and no metter how rich or lean it is, it acts the same, and the problem has worsened. We think it might not be getting power so its temporarily removed so i can drive at normal idle.

Damon

You're down to either no voltage to the choke or the choke element itself has gone bad.

To test voltage it's easy (but make sure you can still read 12V at the connector even with it connected and heating the choke- otherwise the current to it is too weak- I've run into this before).

If you got voltage, the element itself is bad. $40 retail from your local parts store for a new element- not cheap.

5-6 minutes, even on a pretty cold day, and it should be full open.

sqzbox

I'm not sure about the electric choke but there used to be a heat transfer channel on the base plate of the older model Quad's. If it got pluged or the wrong gasket or intake manifold were used, it would cause choke problems, caused by heat blockage to the "choke tube" or sensor. I might be wrong or to far back, but I thought it might be worth a try! Does your carb have an adjustment screw that contacts the fast idle cam? If it does back it out some. Or, it could be as simple as bending a tang on the fast idle linkage to make it more sensitive to throttle movement.
Good luck!

Nordbert

I had the same problem a few years ago with my q-jet's choke.
It didn't have enough strength to open the choke fully, even though it was heating up. The solution was to buy a new choke. The bi-metal coil must have gotten weak over time. BTW, if you
open the choke by hand and blip the throttle, the fast idle cam
should fall and your idle should be slow.