My choke doesnt work right in the summer my car doesnt run well and bogs intill it warms up for about 5mins or drivin about a few miles or so.

What can i do for a quick fix..... like can i set it some how so it works good in the winter then i can set it somewere so it works good when i rarely wanna start it up in the winter.

I got a 305 lg4 elec choke on a 4barrel q-get.

 

1st thing is to make sure everything is in place and operating properly/freely. No gummed linkage, proper voltage, no vacuum leaks, etc. Gummed up linkage will require more thermostat tension to close the choke, which will make the choke open more slowly. Use spray carb cleaner to clean everything if necessary, do not oil anything afterward (attracts dirt).

Then adjust the vacuum pull-off so it lets it run right after starting when fully cold. But, that's not a 5-minute thing.

If the choke is staying on too long, you need to rotate the thermostat housing in the lean direction. I typically set mine by adjusting it so the choke butterfly just closes when the engine is completely cold. You have to hold the throttle open slightly while you rotate it, tighten down the thermostat, then open the butterfly, close the throttle, and make sure the choke snaps shut when you open the throttle again. Freely operating linkage is vital in getting this to work.

 

Seems when my car is cold (like now in the winter)....it will run for good for like1-3mins or so then it will idle down slowly till it stalls.....i can resart it and it will run for a a few secs then idle down again and stall.....I tryed to play with the black plactic elec choke piece (the thing i think that your refuring to the thermostat, is this right?) I got it working ok in the winter but in the summer it still sucks.
this is what happens in the summer If the car is cold(hasnt been running in a long while) It will start and not idle high enoght to stay runing and when i take off driving it bogs for about 2-5mins or about a few miles or so. It kinda seems like if i drive it on the hiway right away the boging goes away faster then if i was putting thru town.

Heres what I know,
1- my choke pull off seems to be working cause if i rev it up while its at high idle it will kick off and idle down ok so that works.

2- Im sure i got no vacume leeks but i think i do have a few lines that are cut and pluged.

3- Im sure its not gumed up too bad as they seem to move ok...but then again it could be alittle, so im ganna get some carb cleaner and give it all a spray too (is wd40 ok for now or is that a big no no?).

4- And you said voltage, ok so what voltage should i get from the choke wire, Im guessing that one termanal of the multimeter goes to the wire and one to ground (is this right)???

5- Lean direction,,, do you know if thats counter clock wise or clock wise of hand???? lean means the choke flap is fully open right??

I think i got a cc carb and i know my car has some codes in it but will that effect my carb this much. cause someone removed my SES light. But when warm my car runs and starts perfect!!

 

heres some old pics of my carb.....

 

ttt

 

eeew you got the crusties.

I'd say just adjust it so it's more closed when dead cold and clean up the linkages.
You might want to check the element inside the mechanism for more crusties.
I know oil attracts dirt but sometimes it ends up better than crusties because it's usually slippery dirt.
Why doesn't somebody make polished stainless linkage? oh well I never run a choke anyway.

 

Can't argue with that.

You really need to get a rebuild kit, bucket of carb cleaner, and go through that thing.

The green on those linkages is a product known as "Teflon".

 

crusties....you mean just dirty carb like?? to remove my carb i got to buy a new fuel line that goes from the pump to the carb as that one is seized on there and i cant remove my carb. Hope that line from gm isnt too expencive (as i suspect thats the only place i can buy one).
thanks guys for the help
Jeff

 

It's not. In fact, it's so cheap, you can't even buy one.

Get a tubing bender and a pipe cutter, 'cause you're making your own. Either that or just the cutter, cut it in a nice straight spot, and use a section of rubber fuel hose to put it together.

 

Ok cool.....anyone know the size of tubing used and the treaded end sizes as i would like to replace them. Also what type of flare is the fuel line?

 

3/8 metal line. English threads. Autozone / Advance should have a ton of it in different sizes. Tell em ya need the fuel line going to the carb.

 

3/8" SAE steel brake line works nicely.