My electric choke on my street avenger is really annoying me. Engine is fully warmed up, I shut the engine off. I come back out 15 minutes later and the choke wants to go through all stages again. Can I put in a different spring or something so the choke kicks down faster, like, alot faster? I'm almost about to just go and convert to manual choke because I hate not having control. It's a waste of gas and my time to sit there for 90 seconds waiting for the carb to kick out of choke when I know my engine is plenty warm enough.

I like the fact that in the morning I can start the engine, and it will rev 1700 for me, I can come back out in 5 minutes, hit the gas once, and it drops completely out of choke. However whenever I shut the engine off, I guess the spring cools down, and it wants to go through all the choke stage again. Granted it doesn't want 5 minutes, but 60-90 seconds is annoying when i shouldn't need any.

If I don't pump the gas, and just start the car, I can put it in gear, but as soon as I hit the throttle the choke will turn on, in gear, which is also annoying.

At least with manual I could control it....is there something wrong with my choke? Should it not be going back into choke that fast?

 

If it uses a typical Holley-style electric choke you should be able to loosen the screws and rotate the choke element to reduce the spring tension against the choke. Then it won't be kicking back in until things cool off considerably further.

 

Is this a problem with the choke blade itself? or is it the fast-idle cam?

I'm sure if you have a fast-idle cam there must be a way to adjust it. I always take them off & never use them.
1700 sounds a bit too high to me so something probably needs to be backed off a bit.

Can you find a pic of the mechanism on your carb?

 

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin.../f0-80670.html

That is a picture.

Should I turn the choke to the right or the left? Unfortunately my instructions were thrown out.

The fast idle cam, I have a red one....

 

turning it clockwise is the wrong way. so turn it counter clockwise to make it more "lean" which will allow it to pull off sooner. there are some dashes on the choke that you move 2 or 3 dashes at a time until you get the desired result.

 

its just not adjusted right.

once you get it set right, you'll find that electric chokes are great... esp for newer cars that you dont want to drill a hole for a choke cable......

 

Mine sucks, too. But there is another adustment that I have to play with.

 

When I had a Holley with electric choke, it seemed to be a little too eager to engage. When running at the track, I'd want to keep the engine relatively cool, and I had times when the choke was partially on when I started a run. I ended up turning it lean so the choke barely came on when cold - didn't make for very good street manners.

Since this car was strip-primary and street-secondary (mainly getting from home to the track), I lived with the situation. If it was used more on the street, I'd want one that responded more to under-hood temp and less to the electric heating. But, I don't know if such a thing even exsists.

 

five-7 kid.....wasn't there another type of holley eletric choke WAAYYY back in the day that used something different that the tension spring that's heated up? i thought i remember reading in the old holley book from the late 70s about a different choke that used some other type of heat source, i thought it was underhood or intake temp, to be the choke pull off. IIRC i can try to find the book sometime in the next few days.

 

I think what you may be thinking of xpndbl3 is the old style choke that was used on most cars (and maybe Holleys too) from the factory which involved a choke "stove" I believe it was called, which was simply a metal tube attached to the intake runner that would convey warm air to the choke spring to heat it up. There was no electricity involved in that setup, it relied on the heat from the intake to warm the spring and turn the choke off. I could be wrong, but that sounds like what you're thinking of maybe? But that still uses engine heat not underhood temperature to guage the amount of choke to use, so you must be thinking of something else.

On another note, I have issues with the electric choke on my Holley also. I tried to set it up to work with my new 350 once and the car started, began to climb to high idle, then died. Turns out the choke flooded it so bad that I had to replace all the spark plugs . The electric choke worked fine on the old 305 that the carb was on before I did the motor swap, but I can't seem to get it adjusted properly for the 350. Any advice on setting the choke up would be much appreciated! (sorry to quasi-hijack this thread, btw...)

 

As you guys were saying, when you turn that black can on the side it controls the choke linkage. Turning it right opening the choke up, I think it was "hanging" slightly closed. I turned it all the way to the right, which keeps the choke open as much as possible and tighented it up. Maybe that can explain some of my MPG problems and black plugs....choke might have been hanging closed a little bit since the linkage wasn't tight enough.

Thnx for the info.