i just bought an edelbrock performer carb (#1406) and performer intake. It says in the carb box not to replace a computer controlled rotchester Quadrajet. I know its a quadrajet 4 barrel and has an electric choke but i'm a dummy when it comes to carbs. In 1982 did computer controlled q-jet carbs exist/come in firebirds?

Edit: Sorry for the thread waste. I am about to go get my vin.

 

American cars had the ocmputer controlled carb, but alot of the Canadian cars didn't.

You'll probably need to physically look at your carb. If it has a 3-prong connector right in front of the throttle cable and a 2-prong connector on a plug at the front right corner, it's computerized; if not, it isn't.

I don't know that you can tell from the VIN.

 

RB83L69, i believe it is computerized. its got an electrical connector on the top, a facing to the left and one on the front. I thought i read that if the 8th letter is an H, its computerized so i ran out and checked and it was an H. My new edelbrock carb has no place for an electrical connection on it anywhere. Also, is it true that i have to take out my metal fuel lines and install fuel resistant rubber lines?

 

Well if it's computerized, you'll have to replace the dist with a non-computerized one as well.

Yes it is true that you'll have to hack and destroy your fuel line to put that foreign carb on there.

A carb you can use that will not require that, but of course still isn't computerized and so needs to have the dist replaced, is the Holley 6210.... 650 man sec dbl pumper spreadbore. If you can return the one and trade it fo the other, I'd highly advise it; if of course there's some kind of good reason for swapping out the carb in the first place. Usually the only way that makes the car faster is by weighing less, by lightening up the driver's wallet.

The carb isn't the bottleneck to the LG4's performance. The exhaust, cam, gears, converter, and heads are what's killing your performance. Get all those things upgraded, then you'll be able to tell a difference between the stock carb and some other one.

If you're doing this because you think your stock carb is so fornicated that it doesn't work right, you'll get alot better results for alot less money by repairing it.

 

brother, don't even get me started on the shop that "rebuilt" my carb. i got my ducks in a row now anyways. picked up an MSD distributer and wires. i should have everything installed by the end of tomorrow. thank you for all your help next week i'll pick up a set of headers.

 

I know what you mean.... I wouldn't even consider letting some "shop" touch mine.

 

hey guys, just curious. What's the reason for replacing existing fuel lines with rubber ones?

 

I can't think of any good reason for doing that.

The usual reason why people do it, is because they either munge their fuel line somehow (usually trying to take it out of the carb without holding the big nut still), or they install a carb with the fitting in a different place.

The right thing to do is to bend up a new steel line; or use stainless braided line; or something else that isn't a time bomb waiting to burst and burn the car down.

 

RB83L69, didn't duz ask if he has to "take out my metal fuel lines and install fuel resistant rubber lines." I thought you answered yes to that. Now I am curious and confused at the same time.

 

"...you'll have to hack and destroy your fuel line to put that foreign carb on there" doesn't mean rubber, necessarily.

 

can you cut those stainless steel braided fuel lines? I need about 12 inches or so because i need a 180 degree u-bend to connect my fuel line back up....

thanks,
brandon

 

When doing a carb swap, I either bend up a new steel line out of bulk brake line, or use braided stainless, as I said above. Sometimes even a combination of the 2. I avoid regular rubber line for ANY pressurized fuel application, and DO NOT recommend that anybody use that. I only meant that the original one would not work in the circumstance at hand. Although, it might be possible to cut the original and flare it and use a union to hook up a new section of steel line, and avoid re-making the whole thing that way.

Incidentally, one of the things about that carb that I personally dislike, is that its fuel inlet is 5/16", where our cars have 3/8" line. Plus, it's been a while since I installed one, I don't even recall if you can get a real (non-hose-barb) fitting for it. When those Stone Age weight-controlled carbs still came on cars from teh factory back in the 60s, there was such a fitting; but I have no clue whether you can still get one or not.

 

That is hilarious I bought the exact same thing. When it should up at the doorstep went and threw open the hood and whent ****. I have a 86 Trans Am though. All that hacking and torture i heard about just lead me to use the stock rochester..... I dont know man but good luck........... by the way isnt the carb just..............pretty............

 

Aeroquip FCM-2112 5/8-20 to -6 AN adapter.

 

Good to know. I knew they had a whole series of those, just didn't know if any of them would fit the Carter carb.

 

While we're at it then:

<B>FCM-2112 5/8-20 to -06 AN</B>
Edelbrock Performer, Carter AFB and Thermoquad

<B>FCM2108 5/8-10 thread IF to -06 AN</B>
Stock mechanical fuel pump, transmission cooling ports, and Quadrajets built after 1974

<B>FCM2107 1-20 thread to -06 AN</B>
Quadrajets built after 1974

<B>FCM2113 9/16-24 thread to -06 AN</B>
Holley Single Feed 600-660 series, 4010/4011 series and 2bbl series

<B>FCM2114 7/8-20 thread to -06</B>
Holley Dual Feed 750 through Dominator 1350 and Quadrajets built until 1974

<B>FCM2110 7/8-20 thread to -08 AN</B>
Holley Dual Feed 750 through Dominator 1350 and Quadrajets built until 1974