I have a big Holley (prob 700 or so) off a 327 I got in a 74 Nova. (Motor going in my 86)

The car was sitting for 4 years... and I know these carbs need a rebuild after sitting a month... but that didn't fix it. If the motor runs at all, it runs like total crap. Doesn't look like anything is sticking, what could it be?

 

Was a fuel additive such as Sta-Bil used at all? If not, I'd suspect that the fuel has gone bad. You have bad gas.

 

Describe the rebuild that was done. The carb # ("List" off the front of the choke tower) would be helful.

 

lol, ya the gas is definately varnish... but I'm running the line into a jerry-jug.

I'm not sure of the rebuilt, but the guy that I got it from said that he got a rebuild kit and did it. I think it was all the gaskets and the jets... I think that's what they are called...

I'll get the #'s tonight.

 

A proper "rebuild" disassembles the carb's main components (you don't need to remove the throttle butterflies from the shafts, for instance), soaking all metal parts in "real" carb cleaner, blowing through all passages with compressed air, and replacing all "soft" parts (gaskets, diaphragms, power valve(s), etc.) when reassembling. I'd guess at least one crucial step was skipped.

 

If it was sitting long enough for the gas to dry out there could be residue left in the carb. The passeges in the Holleys can clog up pretty easy. You will probably get the best results from taking it apart and soaking it in some parts cleaner/real carb cleaner then blowing the passages out as five7 said. It would be a good idea to go ahead and replace the gaskets and power valve as well.

I think this would be the most surefire way to be sure it will work properly when you go to use it.

 

So there's no risk of wasting money here? I mean, can it be actually broken or something?

 

Yes, it can be broken.... castings can crack, or erode through from corrosion, or orifices can plug up with corrosion that even "real" carb cleaner (wonderful stuff BTW, just don't get it on your skin, you'll smell like that for days) can't remove, or there could be stripped screw threads in the castings. And then of course you could have any number of other issues relating to the "rebuild", from using the wrong gaskets, to putting them in upside down or backwards, to a backfire the first time it tried to start that toasted the power valve, and so on.

If it seems like the carb has issues, try another carb on the motor; or do as five7 suggested, and re-rebuild it with great care and attention to details. A carb kit is only 20-odd dollars, so it's not a huge investment lost even if it does turn out that the carb core is trashed somehow.

Carb #s would be helpful; that would help determine whether the carb is appropriate at all, what kit to get, what to watch out for, etc.

 

Well, I should be going over to the car after work today. Where might I find the numbers?

 

Here....

The number you want is the "list" #.

 

You say that like it's a bad thing.

 

"Is that Octane 93 you're wearin'?"

 

When I was flipping burgers in high school to save money for university that was one of the only things that would take the smell of onions out of my fingernails.

 

Are you sure its the carb thats the problem? Just want to make sure that you're not jumping to the wrong conclusion....

Are things like the float levels working correctly etc and is it obviously the problem, or does it seem to shove gas into the engine sorta right?

Si.

 

Seems like I might as well just be dumping gas into the intake myself

 

With the air filter off, does it do a reasoanable job at atomising the gas when you jump on the gas peddle? should be easy to see down the barrels.

If so then I would check everything else first. ie. what do your plugs look like after a run? do you get a decent spark etc?

Si.

 

Um, ya lost me

The plugs look kinda sooty, but all have great spark when I checked. I got a new cap, rotor, and an Accel Supercoil... but no change.

I may not get the #'s till tomorrow, no ride over there (at my friend's house... driveway here is full!)

 

lol, been a while, but here are the #'s on it:

1850-2

So it's a 600cfm. Any idea what year it could be? Is there a date stamp on it somewhere?