Fuel well plugs?
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Oakland, CA
Car: 87 Camaro Z28
Engine: LG4, CCC
Transmission: 700r4
Fuel well plugs?
Does anyone have a picture of the underside of CC Q-Jet? I think my fuel well plugs are leaky, because it's still rich after I did a partial rebuild (stuff directly under the airhorn). They can be accessed just my taking the carb off the manifold, and flipping it over, correct? Thanks in advance.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
This is the best I could find quickly. You don't just turn the carb over, you have to disassemble it.
<img src="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/attachment.php?s=&postid=2460000">
<img src="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/attachment.php?s=&postid=2460000">
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Here's a better one, thanks to CarCraft
<img src="http://carcraft.com/howto/p123761_image_large.jpg">
<img src="http://carcraft.com/howto/p123761_image_large.jpg">
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Oakland, CA
Car: 87 Camaro Z28
Engine: LG4, CCC
Transmission: 700r4
aaah, damn. I just had it apart. What a pain. Are these plugs on the bottom of the float bowl assembly? If so, that means I have to tear it down from the top, further than I did before, and redo everything I already did?
EDIT: bleh, I just answered my own question. Is it possible to remove the carb, then just remove the thorttle body assembly, or do I need to go through the top, removing the airhorn, then the float bowl assembly, and all the sensors and whatnot?
EDIT: bleh, I just answered my own question. Is it possible to remove the carb, then just remove the thorttle body assembly, or do I need to go through the top, removing the airhorn, then the float bowl assembly, and all the sensors and whatnot?
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Well, the bolts holding the throttle body onto the float bole go in from the top, so you're probably taking most of it apart anyway.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Oakland, CA
Car: 87 Camaro Z28
Engine: LG4, CCC
Transmission: 700r4
Ugh. Sounds like a pretty big job. No shortcuts to it, just gotta start from the top and work my way down? If the plugs are on the bottom, that means I'll need to remove the carb from the manifold as well.... sounds like my day off is all booked up. Thanks for the resposne Aperion, it's nice to have someone reaffirm the things I think I know, seeing as this is my first time doing all this.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
You might not have to take everything off at least. Take the top cover screws out, and see what's keeping the throttle body from falling off, if anything.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Oakland, CA
Car: 87 Camaro Z28
Engine: LG4, CCC
Transmission: 700r4
Ok. Doesn't sound that bad I guess, as long as I don't have to go from the top and remove the airhorn and do the lean mixture screw and all that stuff again. Thanks again.
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You can take the throttle body off without taking the air horn off. Only remove the screws that go all the way through to the TB - the two under the choke butterfly can stay in, for instance. Then the screws that are underneath the TB.
You can get to the primary wells without removing the TB, but it's better to have it open.
You can get to the primary wells without removing the TB, but it's better to have it open.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Whatever they used, it's not JB Weld so it has to be wrong. 
Actually, it was Sean Murphy that did the work in the article.

Actually, it was Sean Murphy that did the work in the article.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
any idea how that was painted?
I think I have that article at home (maybe..), if it was done by Jet...?
I'm planning on making my q-jet really pretty for the next motor, I was thinking either paint like that, or nickel plated...
I think I have that article at home (maybe..), if it was done by Jet...?
I'm planning on making my q-jet really pretty for the next motor, I was thinking either paint like that, or nickel plated...
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The Car Craft fuel bowl.
Looks like a grey-tone photo to me. Or whatever they call that tech photo stuff.
Looks like a grey-tone photo to me. Or whatever they call that tech photo stuff.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Yeah, just looks clean to me.
If you wanted to paint it, you could remove absolutely everything from it (including the tubes in the vacuum ports), mask the top and bottom mating surfaces (including covering the bores), spray it and reassemble it.
If you wanted to paint it, you could remove absolutely everything from it (including the tubes in the vacuum ports), mask the top and bottom mating surfaces (including covering the bores), spray it and reassemble it.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Eastwood carries the paint. I thought that had been discussed in a different thread.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 275
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From: Oakland, CA
Car: 87 Camaro Z28
Engine: LG4, CCC
Transmission: 700r4
Ok, so I've gotten everything off, and it really wasn't too bad. Under the airhorn servicing is way more of a pain in my opinion, and having done it once. I keep reading that I'm supposed to punch in and/or file the fuel well plugs? Is this nessecary? Which part would I be punching in, the flat spot on the secondary plugs? What part am I filing?
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Just put the sealant, whatever you're using, over the plugs after thorough cleaning (brake parts cleaner is a good choice, doesn't leave residue).
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Oakland, CA
Car: 87 Camaro Z28
Engine: LG4, CCC
Transmission: 700r4
Ok, done and done. I used carb cleaner and JB weld. The area around the primary plugs was super dirty and there was lots of gasket material stuck to the fuel bowl surface. The area around the secondaries was quite clean. It actually looked a lot like that first picture, sans the epoxy. Thanks for the help.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
The well plugs fill holes needed temporarily during the manufacturing process. Over time they can start to leak fuel into the manifold and cause an over rich condition. Plugging them with epoxy prevents this.
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