I've got an 85 Camaro Sport Coupe, originally a 2.8 but it now has a 305 and 700r4 out of an 86 IROC. The 700r4 has a shift kit and the 305 has an edelbrock intake and manual choke carb. I'm having quite a few problems that I think are carb related but I'm not sure. First, the car really doesn't want to idle. It does OK going down the road though, although sometimes it does sound like the car is sputtering. Sometimes it will try to idle at about 600 rpm but it is really rough but most of the time it will not idle at all and as soon as you let off the gas it dies.

Why would it do that? I just put in new spark plugs and all the wires are in good shape and going to the right plugs. There are a few vacuum lines that don't go anywhere, and the line going out of the back of the carb is going to the brake booster, is that right? The fuel hoses from the fuel pump to the carb are also routed weird but I assume they are going to the proper places because otherwise it wouldn't run at all, right? There is a third end on the fuel pump that is just plugged up, what would that be for? And finally one of the original fuel lines from the tank is completely unused and has nothing hooked to it. My other problem is that the kickdown doesn't work, when I romp on it it just goes right on through the gear and doesn't downshift. I'm pretty sure the kickdown is hooked up though(it is the cable right underneath the main throttle cable right? And it absolutely will not spin the tires on asphalt. Here are some pics of the lines I'm talking about:

 

back of carb to brake booster...

 

front of carb to PCV valve, is that right?

 

and the spare fuel line

 

Help anyone? I forgot to mention that he in-line fuel filter is pretty junked up and I just got the car today so didn't get to Advance to get a new one, but could bad gas be part of the problem?

 

i had alot of the carb problems you have and still have the tranny problem i have a 600 edlebrock and it wouldnt idle for nothing so i sprayed the crap out of it with carb cleaner and adjusted the two screws in the front of the carb and it idles great now, i also had to adjust the idle screw. To adjust the screws in the front of the carb just turn them right until the egine just shows sign of sputtering and then turn them a half a turn back left. And adjust the idle screw according to how high you want your idle. The third line on the fuel pump is a return line which probably hooks up to the extra line youv got comming off the tank. Ive had all the problems you have and my car still cuts out at high rpm but its the filter more than likely but my car still idles great now.

 

Before I adjust the mixture screws should I back the idle screw all the way off? I just got done turning it all the way in and it will sorta idle now but its still rough and it still doesn't want to idle if I have it in gear. I'm going to change the fuel filter as soon as I can get to Advance. Thanks for the advice.

 

OK, car seems to be running fairly well now but we'll see for sure tomorrow. I adjusted the timing a little but will fine tune it friday when I get a better timing light. The TV cable was way out of adjustment so the car will downshift and will spin the tires way better now, but I think it could still be better. Like I said, I'll see if it is really fixed tomorrow. BTW, has anybody tried an accel super coil before? Does it actually help anything much? Worth the money?

 

I've got two vehicles using the Supercoil, the Camaro and a full size Chevy van. Hard to say if it helps or is worth it, but I certainly have no complaints with either.

 

by "Kickdown" you really mean TV cable and you had better check that or your tranny is gonna go bye bye.

 

Yup TV cable. Its adjusted properly but the car still has NO ***** and won't spin the tires on the road. It was still running OK but I took it to a good mechanic I know when I got off work, it turns out the vacuum advance was hooked up backwards. Any idea why it would run so weak?

 

i had my 305 equiped with the edelcrap 600 cfm and i could spin em all day long with a leaking trans.... check your tune... IE ign and carb and TV settings

 

It turns out it had the wrong throttle linkage. It runs like a raped ape once you get goin but it still will hardly break traction on pavement. It still shifts REAL hard and I need a trans mount bad, so I don't wanna push it anymore than necessary until I replace the mount.

 

shifts hard .... check your TV cable.... you have one installed right? you know how to adjust it?

 

Yup, I have one and know how to adjust it but as long as it downshifts when I step on it it should be adjusted correctly right? Since it has a custom throttle bracket and cable on it could that cause there to be issues w/the TV cable?

 

the TV (Throttle-Valve) cable affects kickdown and shift points.... im still playin with mine... shifts into 2nd way too soon

 

Adjust the TV cable properly. Don't rely on the way it shifts to assume it is right. Don't adjust it to change the way it shifts.

 

orry for dopey question, but,

with non-factory instilations,
concerning the TV,

how does one know what 'correct adjustment' is?,
other than how it shifts

all my cars are sticks, so I don't know

 

according to Haynes it should automaticly adjust itself when you reset it via it's ratcheting action..... mine does not do that so i have to physically move it so that my car shifts reasonably

 

1st, you need to duplicate the throttle arm and cable bracket geometry from the stock set-up. That includes the throttle arm radius and idle/WOT angles, and throttle arm to bracket distance.

Then, you need to disengage the cable housing lock mechanism, pull the housing back, let the lock tab loose - then it will self-adjust. An alternative is to hold the throttle wide open, release the lock mechanism, move the housing back until you get resistance (pretty much impossible to do with two hands).

 

umm i kinda get it but can you explain it a lil more in depth... i don't understand what you mean about disengaging the housing or whatever

 

There is a "D" shaped spring loaded metal button on the cable housing where it snaps into the bracket. Push it in to disengage, let it off to engage.

 

ok i got that...thats how i adjust it now... but what am i supposed to pull back or wat?

 

just say good bye to your tranny and get a th350 or a 6 speed. You are just going to burn up your tranny.

 

lol funny you should say that... It's slipping like crazy and it wasn't in good health to begin with... now if you have a t56 to donate to me... i'll be more than willing to recieve... but i do not have 2g's to lay out on a trans plus linkages, clutch, hardware, etc..


im thinking of getting a Raptor 700-r4... they have one for $1900 w/ custom stalled convertor... might pick one of those up... sooner than later... till then i'll abuse my stocky and laff at hitting the rev limiter cuz it doesn't like to be pushed very hard....

 

LMFAO! Yeah right, i'd rather have your slipping trans vs a raptor, those trannies are crap and for $1900?! that is hella expensive for 700R4. Just get one from Bowtie because they are cheaper, better quality and much better service.

Also, raptor is a bunch of red n3cks that like to steal web page's and ideas.

I dont recommend getting 700r4/2004r from raptor under ANY circumstances. I dont even recommend going to their website, it's terrible and full of BS. Do it right, do it once, go to the pro's, not the imposters.

 

i was turned on to them by a buddy of mines... but if you say bowtie is better.. i'd rather trust something wearing the same as my car..

they do custom work?

 

i have bowtie, they are all about custom. call them. 760 947-5240

 

will do.. thanks

 

Use the straw on the carb cleaner to spray directly down into ALL the air bleeds and into the booster discharge tubes to back-flush.

then get your TV cable set up correctly.
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

 

i published that article and took all the photo's you see Just FYI.

 

yea?? its been bookmarked.... lol but i dont see some pics that im pretty sure should be there... stupid compuer