Intake carb question
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 130
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From: Pittsburg Kansas
Car: 1970 GMC LWB Street strip
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 350TH
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt 4:11
Intake carb question
Right now i have a 383 stroker with a torqer intake and a 750 holley. I dont know what it runs yet, i havnt had time to take it this year. But its kinda of sluggish when i first nail the throttle and it just doesnt seem like what it should in my opinion. my cam is 234/ 244 durration and 488/510 lift RPM range 1500 to 6500 i believe. I was wonderin if the edelbrock RPM air gap would take care of the sluggish reaction and if it would make the car quicker. Or any other intake suggestions? Do you think this combo is good for 12's if not what do you think it would run.
383 stroker. 400 crank 5.75 rods, hypertectic pistons 9.6 to 1 compression, aluminum heads 2.02 1.60 stainless valves, cam listed above, HEI distributor, intake above or Airgap or???, roller rockers, 750 holley, headers with 2 1/2 catback, 700R4 tranny shiftkit, 3:73 limited slip. suspesnsion wise i do have a sphoon torque arm, i believe it makes it hook up better.
Thanks for all the help, i just want to get this sluggish part fixed before i take it to the track.
383 stroker. 400 crank 5.75 rods, hypertectic pistons 9.6 to 1 compression, aluminum heads 2.02 1.60 stainless valves, cam listed above, HEI distributor, intake above or Airgap or???, roller rockers, 750 holley, headers with 2 1/2 catback, 700R4 tranny shiftkit, 3:73 limited slip. suspesnsion wise i do have a sphoon torque arm, i believe it makes it hook up better.
Thanks for all the help, i just want to get this sluggish part fixed before i take it to the track.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Sir, as sofakingdom might say, that cam is a relic of an era long ago, when everyone went that much slower.
seriously though, that cam is bull****. ahem, pardon my french.
Torquer's are also not so hot.
Basically, with the torquer, that cam, and the 9.6:1 CR (with AL heads), your low end is quite soft and sluggish eh? Well, those are the reasons.
solution? stick with the other thread in the general engine forum, more people go there, and it's not really a carb issue.
2nd, those heads are probably ok, i'm guessing aftermarket ones. However the CR is kinda low, with AL you need to go a bit higher, as they lose heat faster. A smaller, more aggressive cam would help. Performer RPM, airgap if desired, intake is best.
seriously though, that cam is bull****. ahem, pardon my french.
Torquer's are also not so hot.
Basically, with the torquer, that cam, and the 9.6:1 CR (with AL heads), your low end is quite soft and sluggish eh? Well, those are the reasons.
solution? stick with the other thread in the general engine forum, more people go there, and it's not really a carb issue.
2nd, those heads are probably ok, i'm guessing aftermarket ones. However the CR is kinda low, with AL you need to go a bit higher, as they lose heat faster. A smaller, more aggressive cam would help. Performer RPM, airgap if desired, intake is best.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 130
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From: Pittsburg Kansas
Car: 1970 GMC LWB Street strip
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 350TH
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt 4:11
motor
Ok thanks for the reply im not question what you said, i knwo the torqer has to go, it has no low end, however why is that cam not a good choice?? just wonderin, what would you recomment?
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,004
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From: Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Are the cam specs @ .050 or advertised? For .050 specs it looks pretty tame...
RPM air-gap seems to be the intake of choice around here, though keep in mind the RPM series isnt tailored to the guys that want off-idle power.
Are you running a higher stall convertor?
If not you should really consider one. It alone would wake up that car a bit but also allow you the use of a larger cam.
RPM air-gap seems to be the intake of choice around here, though keep in mind the RPM series isnt tailored to the guys that want off-idle power.
Are you running a higher stall convertor?
If not you should really consider one. It alone would wake up that car a bit but also allow you the use of a larger cam.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You didn't say what your converter stalls at. If below 3000 RPMs, it will feel sluggish off the line.
2-1/2" cat-back isn't helping anything, either, although that's more top-end related than low.
Take care of those two things, and you won't be disappointed.
2-1/2" cat-back isn't helping anything, either, although that's more top-end related than low.
Take care of those two things, and you won't be disappointed.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
that cam is the edelbrock RPM cam right? It's specs are the same as the summit $50 variant. It's got lazy ramp rates, and low lift (given it's duration spec).
the end result is the big cam feel (big advertised duration), without a lot of big cam power (duration @.050", and lift).
Look for a compxe, or lunati voodoo, or crane Z series (IIRC), with equivalent duration @.050.
but yea, didn't see your stall speed. You've built a high RPM motor, so you'll need higher stall.
the end result is the big cam feel (big advertised duration), without a lot of big cam power (duration @.050", and lift).
Look for a compxe, or lunati voodoo, or crane Z series (IIRC), with equivalent duration @.050.
but yea, didn't see your stall speed. You've built a high RPM motor, so you'll need higher stall.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 130
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From: Pittsburg Kansas
Car: 1970 GMC LWB Street strip
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 350TH
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt 4:11
not a double pumper. now wether its a vacumm seconday or mechanical im not for sure, it came on the car. Im thinkin vacumm secondarys
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,779
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From: any clime or place...
Car: 1987 Camaro SC, 1999 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350HO, LS1
Transmission: Built 700r4/EDGE 3200, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton 7.625, 3.42 Zexel Torsen
a VS is gonna have a square diaphram looking thingy on the passenger side.
...i thought all holley mech. 2nd's were DP?
...i thought all holley mech. 2nd's were DP?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 130
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From: Pittsburg Kansas
Car: 1970 GMC LWB Street strip
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 350TH
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt 4:11
hell could be, this one came on the car and havnt really looked to deep into it i think im just gonna build another engine 406 to be exact.
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Recurve the distributor to allow more ignition timing at idle but the same total timing at high rpm. You have to limit the mechanical travel form stock 20-24deg to about 12 deg.
that will allow you to set the intial at 22-24deg BTC at idle and get 34-36 deg BTC at high rpm (3000+rpm) (verify with a timing light)
The big cam requires more intiial timing at idle. your throttle responce will be greatly improved after recurving the distributor. Then reset you carb after doing this by removeing it, turn it over and looking at the throttle plates alignment with the idle fuel transfer slots. adjust for about .030" of slot showing. equaly primary and secondary. Reinstall carb and reset the idle mixture screw once warmed up. should idle steady at 700rpm with the timing set at 22deg and rev easily. make sure the total timing does not exceed 36deg. Some 400's only need about 32deg.
A torker II manifold requires a larger tahn stock accelerator pump shooter. may need the plastic cam swaped too.
A torker II will want a carb spacer 1/2 or 1" wood open spacer.
Try a .035 or .037" shooter.
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Then... ditch the torker II for a Performer RPM intake.
A single 2.5" exhaust is not going to cut it. You'll need a minum of a 3" exhaust system 3.5" is better. or dual 2.5" exhaust.
that will allow you to set the intial at 22-24deg BTC at idle and get 34-36 deg BTC at high rpm (3000+rpm) (verify with a timing light)
The big cam requires more intiial timing at idle. your throttle responce will be greatly improved after recurving the distributor. Then reset you carb after doing this by removeing it, turn it over and looking at the throttle plates alignment with the idle fuel transfer slots. adjust for about .030" of slot showing. equaly primary and secondary. Reinstall carb and reset the idle mixture screw once warmed up. should idle steady at 700rpm with the timing set at 22deg and rev easily. make sure the total timing does not exceed 36deg. Some 400's only need about 32deg.
A torker II manifold requires a larger tahn stock accelerator pump shooter. may need the plastic cam swaped too.
A torker II will want a carb spacer 1/2 or 1" wood open spacer.
Try a .035 or .037" shooter.
----------
Then... ditch the torker II for a Performer RPM intake.
A single 2.5" exhaust is not going to cut it. You'll need a minum of a 3" exhaust system 3.5" is better. or dual 2.5" exhaust.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Jun 22, 2006 at 06:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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