Ok, so I've been sitting here searching for the past two hours, and found no real, definitive answers. So here goes.

I have an 89 iroc camaro, 350 TPI. It won't run right, and I'm sick of fiddling with fuel injection. I know of a parts car... 83 carb'd camaro that I'll use as a donor, and will just be changing everything over.

I know the intake manifold, and carb are a given... I can most likely use the throttle cable from that car. My questions are:

(1) With the computer no longer in use, I assume VATS will no longer be an issue, correct?

(2) Will all my gauges/hvac and radio still work without the computer? I don't have power windows or locks, so those are out of the question.

(3) I assume, without the computer that the fuel pump will not kick on, and I'll have to find some other primary way of doing this? Which is best?

To clear up anything else, I will be using an AFPR with a return line so that I can keep my fuel pump... it's literally brand new, and I'm not dropping the tank again.

 

all your guages hvac and radio will still work. I've got no computer in my 84 ta, but I'm carb'd so "I've never worried about a pump problem. VATS won't work, as well as your cruise.

 

Well, I don't want VATS, and I don't have cruise so that's not a problem either. Best of both worlds, I suppose. It looks to me like a win-win situation. So long as my guages and everything will still work, I'll be diving right in. I've been told that the computer only controls ignition and fuel injection, along with all the sensors that go with them, is that true?

 

as far as I know yes. If you want to see what's gonna happen just unplug the ECM and see what happens.

 

The donor car would have come with a computerized carb unless it was originally delivered in Canada. Has it be switched over to a non-computer carb and distributor?

 

No, it's completely stock. Would I need to get, say, an eldelbrock manifold and a holley carb or something to that nature, that isn't computerized?

 

About all the donor car can contribute is the throttle cables.

Starting with aftermarket intake manifold, carb, and distributor probably makes more sense than going for the donor car carb. Not that I don't like the factory computer controlled carb system, I do, but switching to it is probably a lot more involved than what you want to do.

To be completely honest with you, I'd rather see you take care of the TPI problems and stick with that system. But, that's swimming against the stream, I know.

By the way, there's a tech article available on the topic of switching from EFI to carb, linked from www.thirdgen.org homepage.

 

Keeping the TPI system is much more in my favor, however I have 600 bucks dumped into it already trying to make it run, and it won't. I'd rather lose all the electronical stuff and go carb, than try to pull codes that the computer isn't even throwing because the car won't run. Seems much easier to me.

 

Since you have a T5, I'd recommend a 600 or 650 double pumper Holley. On a stock Goodwrench 350, you can use either a Performer or a Performer RPM manifold. The RPM will give up power below 1500 RPMs, but provide gains above about 4500 RPMs. The Weiand Action+ and Stealth are comparable to the Performer and Performer RPM, respectively.

 

Excellent info, and I know someone who has a 650 holley for free.

As far as my engine goes, I assume I'll need the 87+ manifold, correct? I'm not sure if I have vortec heads or not, nor how to tell if I do. Is there a way I can tell by the stamped number on the manifold if the bolt pattern is the earlier or later model?

I also assume the information stated above about my computer no longer in action will not affect my guages, etc? I'm a bit worried about this as I almost bought a camaro before this one, which was switched to carb but the wiring harness got hacked, he had to re-wire everything to get his guages and everything working. I'm guessing if all I'm doing is removing the computer, I won't have any problems, correct?

 

removing the computer will definatly not affect your guages. I know that from personal experience. and like they said, you'll need to get a vaccum advance distributor.

 

Yes, the distributor I know about, I can get one of those fairly cheap also, from a parts car.

My main concern now is the manifold. I don't want to dremel out bolt holes because I've chosen the wrong one. Though, if I have no other choice, then it will have to be done.

 

check out summit racing and they'll make sure you get one that will match up with your block.

 

Incorrect. You need the '86-earlier (old standard) pattern.

And, the Goodwrench 350 does not have Vortec heads.

 

Excellent, that makes things much easier. I already have it all ripped apart, just need to order up some parts. Being that I'm low on money, is it possible to use a junkyard manifold, (throttle cables of course) and mate up a holley carb to it just for the time being? I'm new to the whole carbuerated thing, so sorry for all the dumb questions. I just want to get it right the first time and not have to mess with it later on in the long run.

 

Factory carbs are mostly spreadbore q-jets. Holley's are squarebores. If you use a factory manifold, you'll have to use a spreadbore-to-squarebore adapter. I happen to have one I'm no longer using, I'm sure others do as well. They aren't too expensive from the typical chain or performance parts store.

But, you can pick up a used Performer or like manifold pretty cheap from members here on the Classifieds forum, or eBay. That's what I would recommend.

 

One last thing, from reading the tech articles I can't find an answer.

Assuming without the computer, the fuel pump will no longer turn on, how do I accomplish this? Run a wire from, say, the fuel pump to an ignition source like the radio? What's the best way to do that?

 

The best way is to find an unused ignition-switched terminal in the fusebox and use it. Run it through the oil pressure switch. It's also a good idea to run a wire from the unused small terminal on the starter solenoid in parallel so the pump runs while you're cranking the engine before the oil pressure comes up.