MilehighBird

iTrader: (1)

Hi Guys.

I had sent my CCC-qjet to be rubuilt by a place out in California called the Carb Shop. The carb was original and never touched or modified in any way (I am the cars original owner). I reinstalled it after the rebuild and now the car won't run. When I turn the key it clicks fine. The car starts right up but idles alot higher than before like around 3000 rpm. It will idle for about 5 or 6 seconds and then just dies. No missfiring or any thing like that, it just cuts out. I wanted to ask you guys if I missed anything putting it back on the car before I call them this week and ask if it was something wrong with what they did.

I took pictures before I removed the carb so all the hoses and connectors went back in the right spots. I triple checked the routings now that it is back on so I'm 99% sure everything was reinstalled correctly. I also removed the fuel line to make sure they had a fuel filter in there and did not lose the spring and that looked ok. Sorry that I can't give you any voltage readings or anything but I don't have any of those tools. Anything else you guys can think of to check I'd appreciate it.

Thanks

naf

iTrader: (7)

If you don't have a dwell meter, try (in no particular order):

If idle mixture screws are exposed, count number of threads to seat and try them at four turns out, if not there already.

Try unplugging the tps when you start it, that will run it full rich.

Count number of turns on IAB to seat then try four turns out, if not already there.

Plug every vaccuum port on the carb with a cap to verify no vaccuum leaks.

Is choke blade at 90 degrees (straight up) when engine warm? Choke heater wire connected? Vaccuum pull off good-remove vaccuum line, push plunger in hold finger over vaccuum port on can and plunger stays in?

The shop that rebuilt it probably expects you to adjust it after reinstalling it. Could be as simple as that.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Sounds to me like the brake booster vacuum line (big steel one in back of the carb that goes in with a flare nut) got left off.

Damon

Yeah, I was thinking BIG vacuum leak, too. 3000 is a VICIOUSLY high idle RPM even when all the way up on the high idle cam of the choke linkage. That and the immediate stall afterwards says "lean" like if there was unmetered air getting into the engine (vacuum leak).

Those guys generally do good work. I have sent people to them many times and used them myself too many times to count. I beleive they engine-test all their carbs prior to shipment (at least they did several years ago).

MilehighBird

iTrader: (1)

Thanks alot for the replies. I know that shop has a good rep that why I posted here first. I have tommorow off from work. I will check the brake boost line first and then if that is good move on to the other stuff. The brake boost line was put back on but maybe not snug. I forgot to mention the first time I tried to start it I had the front calipers off(was just finishing up my 13" c4hd swap) so I put them on and bled the system before trying the engine again because I was thinking vaccuum leak also. I hope that didn't screw anything up starting the car with the front brake lines disconnected
I'll post again tommorow after I check the things that you guys suggested.

Thanks again.

Tru2Chevy

Brake lines wouldn't affect it at all, no worries there.

Good luck with it!

- Justin

MilehighBird

iTrader: (1)

I got the car running today!
You guys were right. It was a big vacuum leak. The hose that goes from the PVC valve and attaches at the front of the carb underneath the fuel filter housing was off. I missed it because when I put the carb back on the hose was pinched underneath the fitting where it should have been and appeared to be attached I had to look real close to see that it wasn't.

Now I only have two smaller problems. The choke won't kick off and now the check engine light is coming on which it didn't before the rebuild. I took the car to an alignment shop right away(never did that after I rebuilt the suspension) so when I get it back tonight I'll check to see what codes it's throwing.
Thanks.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Make sure the choke wire is connected (one wire connection to choke housing on ps). Easy to miss. This connection provides voltage to the bimetal coil in the housing which slowly opens the choke.

MilehighBird

iTrader: (1)

I got side tracked with the tire shop. They didn't align my cart to the right specs and scratched the clear coat on one of the wheels doing a hack job with an external weight.
The car is running a little better now but still idling high(about 1100rpm). It is also throwing code 15(coolant sensor) which it wasn't previously and it diesels a little bit when I shut it down. The car has been sitting for months so even though I put in fuel stabilizer I think getting some fresh gas in there tommorow will help. I'm also going to the parts store tommorow to replace some vacuum lines since a few of them look pretty bad.
The choke wire is connected properly and the chocke blade is at 90* when the engine is warm. I am going to hold off on making any adjustments until I get the vacuum lines replaced to rule out any leaks.

MilehighBird

iTrader: (1)

I replaced all the vacuum lines this week and the car idled nice but still a little bit high (1100rpm when warmed up). I adjusted the curb idle screw until the idle was down to 800rpm (about 600rpm in drive). It still idles nice and doesn't stall.
Thanks for everyones help.