Going to mechanical pump
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Going to mechanical pump
1990 Iroc swapped from a TPI with a carb setup. I'm having some issues with keeping a steady fuel pressure with my stock in tank pump and mallory regulator. I was thinking of going to a mech if I didnt get the issue resolved by the weekend.
QUESTION
If I do this, I will have to get a fuel pump pushrod, yes? Also would a TPI cam have the lobe on it for the mechanical pump? Provided that checks out, does the assembly slide in without much effort?
QUESTION
If I do this, I will have to get a fuel pump pushrod, yes? Also would a TPI cam have the lobe on it for the mechanical pump? Provided that checks out, does the assembly slide in without much effort?
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From: 62656
Car: 1991 S10 pickup 2700lbs
Engine: 4.3L Z TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 7.625"
is your 90 block even drilled for a rod to go in it ?
does your cam have a FP lobe ?
if yes and yes then it should be simple
you are going to swap the electric sender unit for a mechanical one right ?
good luck
does your cam have a FP lobe ?
if yes and yes then it should be simple
you are going to swap the electric sender unit for a mechanical one right ?
good luck
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
I actually went and looked back at my swap pictures and realized that my old cam had a lobe on it, so I would assume the new one did (the picture on summit shows that it does, although sometimes what you see isn't the same product #)
As for the hole in the block, I would assume it would be there. These blocks were relatively unchanged until the LT1 came along, correct?
As for the sending unit, I was going to use a hard line that was the right length, as opposed to rubber hose, in place of the pump.
All these things I think are just my assumptions, I just want to see if you guys could confirm it for me
As for the hole in the block, I would assume it would be there. These blocks were relatively unchanged until the LT1 came along, correct?
As for the sending unit, I was going to use a hard line that was the right length, as opposed to rubber hose, in place of the pump.
All these things I think are just my assumptions, I just want to see if you guys could confirm it for me
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Washington State
Car: '84 Berlinetta
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: BTOD stage 3
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi disc
Even in the newer Gen I blocks, they have the passage for the pump push rod drilled, even if the cam does not have a lobe. For instance, the ZZ4 I just got has the push rod hole, but the hyd. roller cam can't be adapted for use with a mechanical pump.
And I would assume that if your cam is a hyd. flat tappet, it has a lobe for the fuel pump, unless it was designed for a fuel injected engine. hope this helps,
And I would assume that if your cam is a hyd. flat tappet, it has a lobe for the fuel pump, unless it was designed for a fuel injected engine. hope this helps,
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
I guess the best thing to do would be to pop the cover off and check before I get into it. If I take it off, is oil going to come gushing out?
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Washington State
Car: '84 Berlinetta
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: BTOD stage 3
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi disc
If the engine is running, yes, but if the engine is off, only a couple of table spoons will come out. You will need a different cover for the mechanical pump, when you remove it for inspection, it might be a good time to change the cover out.
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From: 62656
Car: 1991 S10 pickup 2700lbs
Engine: 4.3L Z TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 7.625"
ive removed man,y and never had oil come out of it
its jut an opening in the side of the crankcase and wayyyy above the oil level
no reason for oil to come out of it
good luck
its jut an opening in the side of the crankcase and wayyyy above the oil level
no reason for oil to come out of it
good luck
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
(For the record, the ZZ4 hydraulic roller cam has the mechanical pump lobe.)
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Thanks guys. Nothing is set in stone yet, I wanna see if i can find out how to get my regular pump to give me a constant pressure with the regulator, because right now its not doing it. Maybe I'll wire up a manual switch to switch the in tank on when I want.
Joined: May 2004
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Sounds like your in-tank pump is going bad?
Make sure your block is bored completely for the pump rod. I've got a '99 crate motor that was not bored completely through for the rod. There's a few out there.
Make sure your block is bored completely for the pump rod. I've got a '99 crate motor that was not bored completely through for the rod. There's a few out there.
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From: southern maryland
Car: 2012 Ram express
Engine: 5.7 hemi
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 3.55
id check your timing make sure you set the timing with the vacuum advance off when i first started my car the fuel pressure went between 5 and 8 the timing was so off when you gave it any kind of gas it would backfire and die set the timing at 12 advanced and the pressure stays constant 5psi.
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Na, its defiantly more complicated than that. But I just rigged the fuel pump through the relay so its working now. Now, however, I cant get the car to start when its warmed up, not even a sputter, even after only 2 minutes running, and still 7psi, but thats for another thread, haha.
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From: Mobile, AL
Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Going to mechanical pump
I have had the same problem with my TPI pump and mallory... I have decided to go to stock mechanical....
For the record I had a LT4 hotcam with a fuel pump lobe.... incase you were wondering even the LT motors had the lobe. I have an LT1 cam right now with the lobe... +2 for hydraulic rollers
For the record I had a LT4 hotcam with a fuel pump lobe.... incase you were wondering even the LT motors had the lobe. I have an LT1 cam right now with the lobe... +2 for hydraulic rollers
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Re: Going to mechanical pump
Fixed the issue guys. Before digging into a mech pump conversion, I tried the rigging of the relay and it completely worked.
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: th350
Re: Going to mechanical pump
The vortec block i have is machined for the fuel pump just not drilled. The lt1 cam i have does not have a fuel pump lobe on it. From what i understand most aftermarket cams have the lobe.
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