ok,im looking to go back to the good old days before ccc.i have an lg4 set up and i want to junk the ccc carb and dist and go mechanical.question would unplugging both set off the light,i dont want to drive around with the light on.i know i can tak ebulb out but rather not.also if i unhook those will the rest of the ecm portion work,mainly the cooling fan and a/c cutout functions,etc...

 

What year lg4?

The cooling fan should work, the switch for it is in the passanger side head.

The A/C should work, it is controlled by a vacuum line from the back of the carb, just make sure you don't damage it and do hook it up to the new carb.

The SES light will come on unless you ditch the entire computer. As far as I know, all the gauges have sending units that control the gauge only, not feed to computer then to gauge.

Why ditch the comp controlled carb & dizzy?

 

What tranny do you have? If you have an auto, it needs the computer to help it shift, which means it needs the ccc carb and dist. You can bypass it with a lockup switch, or a vacuum lockup setup, but just make sure you take note of that.
and yea, you have a good reason to ditch that?

 

ok,the tranny is no longer a lock up.so thats out.its a built engine bigger cam.im worried about the map sensor not working well with a lower vacuum and i want a good spark curve or advaance.also im told with a roller valve train i might fool the knock sensor into a retard situation. before i go and make more mods and get a custom prom would i be better off with just a non ccc carb and dizzy.also the ac is control electroncally fromt he dash switch on this car.what i meant by the ac will it still kick the solnoid for the fast idle if i boot the carb and dizzy.also will the fan still turn on ,which is controlle dby the ecm.....or will i have to forgo the ecm controlled fan and wire it to come on the old fashion way

 

Tranny's not a 700R4? They don't last long without lockup.
Fan is not controlled by the ECM on an LG4, it's already controlled the old fashioned way.
Your VAC sensor should work fine with lower vacuum. O2 could possibly be a problem with too much overlap.
Knock sensor can be easily bypassed so as not to pull out timing.
Throttle kicker is tied into A/C but you may not be able to convert it over to a non q-jet anyway.

Dwell: Simply put it's a measure of how much the carb is richening or leaning the mixture. Higher dwell leans mixture. The Idle Air Bleed screw in the center of the airhorn meters the amount of air allowed to "bleed" into the idle mixture. Turn out=more air=leaner. It is adjusted in small increments until the dwell meter shows that the carb is near the middle of it's range of adjustment: around 30 degrees or 50%. A rebuilt carb should come set near it's factory best setting for a stock engine.