jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

So, I'm contemplating a carb swap in my 88 Iroc-Z 350 TPI engine. I decided to *try* to put together a shopping list with my limited mechanical knowledge (but willing to learn!) While I'm at it I want to upgrade the cam to something a bit more agressive. I love the lopey(sp?) idle sound and would love to be able to get that out of my Camaro. I've done some searching and I'm reading all I can. I got a bit confused on what ignition components I would need, but here's my list thus far:


ACC-59107CBLU
Distributors, Performance Replacement, Magnetic Pickup, Vacuum/Mechanical Advance, Chevy, Big/Small Block, V8 $139.95
$139.95
·This part is temporarily out of stock, but you can order it now. Tentative ship date: 10/5/2007, if your order is placed today.
CCA-08-423-8
Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 276/282, Lift .502/.510, Chevy, Small Block, Each $259.95
$259.95

CCA-747-16
Valve Spring Retainers, Steel, 10 Degree, 1.500 in. Outside Diameter, .690 in. Inside Diameter, Set of 16 $60.69
$60.69

CCA-986-16
Valve Springs, Dual, 1.430 in. Outside Diameter, 296 lbs./in. Rate, 1.150 in. Coil Bind Height, Set of 16 $87.88
$87.88

HLY-0-4777C
Carburetor, Model 4150, 650 cfm, Square Bore, Manual Choke, 4-Barrel, Dual Inlet, Dichromate, Each $365.95
$365.95
You earned $20.00 in Summit Bucks!
HLY-300-64
Intake Manifold, Street Dominator, Dual Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore, Chevy, 5.0/5.7L, Each $165.95
$165.95

HOK-2460-1HKR
Headers, Competition, Shorty, Steel, Ceramic Coated, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, 5.0/5.7L, Pair $369.95
$369.95

MAA-4309
Fuel Pressure Regulator, Aluminum, Natural, 3-12 psi, Universal, Each $76.88
$76.88

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Welcome aboard thirdgen.org.

First, forget the ignition system. The distributor has all you need.

2nd, not that cam. You might like the lopy idle, but you'll soon hate the total lack of low-end power. But, if a bad idle for the power you get is what you're really looking for, that's a good choice of cam. However, the exhaust lift (and probably the intake) are more than stock heads can handle. You also didn't list valve springs - stock springs will die under that cam. I'd recommend you consider a Comp XE268 and their 981 springs. Wait, you have a roller block, stick with a roller cam or you'll have to replace pushrods as well - along with giving up a nice advantage of lifter type.

3rd, intake and cam are a mismatch. Go for the Performer RPM intake - the right choice regardless of which cam you choose.

Headers - another really poor choice. Those are mild 305 or low-RPM torque 350 headers, and not very good quality. Exhaust is no place to be trying to save money, you'll regret it in the end. Hedman or Hooker headers are the right way to go - more expensive, I know, but worth it.

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the very informative response! I'm still very new to all this and spending as much time as I can reading through the forums. I think I'm going to have about 2K to spend on my engine. I'm hoping I can complete the carb swap and add some power within that budget.

91greenbird

iTrader: (4)

if hes keeping stock heads they dont make a performer rpm intake for centerbolt heads but holley makes a high rise called the street dominator that will work nice and is very similar to a rpm intake. Also the cam you have listed is a flat tappet cam your car has a roller cam.

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

Thanks 91greenbird! I updated the list a bit. Hopefully it is looking better...

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

They dont make Performer RPM's for centerbolt heads?

91greenbird

iTrader: (4)

no only performer and performer air gap

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Then modify the center two mount bolt holes on each side and "make" your own Performer RPM. It's not that big of a deal.

duckmanquacker

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You are going to have to pull your heads and have the guides cut down for that much lift. That's the main reason I didn't make a cam recommendation, because those with the duration you're looking for have too much lift for stock heads. Have the heads prepared for positive-type valve stem seals, and that will take care of the issue (but have the valve travel verified with the seals in place, using the retainers you're going to run - you want at least .060" more travel than valve lift). It would also be a good idea to have the rocker studs pinned, or replaced with screw-in studs - that much lift has a tendency to pull out press-in studs.

(BTW, when you edit your original post, you lose the history of what you first proposed. For instance, my original reply now makes no sense. Just a suggestion.)

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

Hmm.. Sorry about that editing post thing. I didn't think about that. I was thinking if I could put together a complete list that maybe someone in the future that wanted to do the swap could just look at the top of the thread. My bad..

I did some work on the car today..nothing close to the aforementioned carb swap. Replaced a badly worn rotor, front pads, and fixed my "stuck hood" with some lithium grease (after much banging and cursing to get it open..)
The coolant looks like 95% water so I sense a flush and fill coming on tomorrow. I also realized my factory posi rear-end isn't working any longer (one wheel spin...yay) Nothing like owning a "new" used car with a questionable history.

Anyhow, enough rambling.. If I wanted to keep my stock heads in-tact is there a cam that I could use and still gain some performance? I guess my question is how much lift can it take before I break things. My dad was joking around with me today.. He said it sounds like someone has already swapped the cam...or it has a miss. lol. Best I can tell it is all factory, but I don't really know what these things are supposed to sound like. It doesn't look like any work has been done and I know the monstrous looking muffler is factory. The only engine issues I've found is just a bit of gray smoke with the engine first fires up when it's cold. Otherwise, no smoke and seemingly smooth running.

jonmark1985

Till it doesn't work and it leaks all the time.

Apeiron

If you do it correctly you won't have any problems with leaks.

jonmark1985

Seems like every couple of months i have to fight mine, its not just an easy thing.

A person has to make angled washers, not as easy as it sounds, or at least to make them look nice. If i could go back and do it all again i would have bought the proper intake.

I decided on the head swap to remedy my problem.

Apeiron

Yes, angled washers are a must, but they're available for purchase so that you don't have to make them. If you have enough material on your intake, you could probably spot face it instead.

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

This might be slightly OT now... but I got bored and recorded an mp3 of my car as it is "now"... Supposedly all stock. Sound quality less than stellar because I was using my cell phone.

http://www.jcjtn.com/iroc/88iroc1jj.mp3

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

Here's the "current" list of items (already purchased)...

Heads - 601 cast, 58cc, 2.02ex/1.60in valves, .550 lift springs (Ebay)
Stainless Steel Roller Rockers (Ebay)
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake (Summit)
Holley 650 DP (Summit)
Hooker 4055 headers (Summit)
Mallory 3-port fuel pressure reg. (Summit)
Distributor (65,000V Coil) - EBay (still pending plug wires)
Holley Brackets for 700R4 (Summit)
TCI Torque Converter Lockup Kit (since I will be ditching the computer for all practical purposes)

Soon to purchase - new rear with working posi and 4.11 gears.
Engine Rebuild Kit - Gonna go ahead and go through this thing and make sure it's "right" when I put it back together carbed.

Items I'm still undecided on:

Which Cam/Lifters
New Torque Converter (suggested stall speed anyone?)


If you have recommendations on either of those last two items, feel free. :-) My $2,000 budget mentioned in another thread kinda got increased a bit (ok..ok.. I'm overspending, but it's for a good cause..)

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The cam you edited into your first post will be a good one.

You'll want about 2500 stall minimum. More might be a good idea, like 2800.

I assume you meant Hooker 2055HKR headers.

jaredi

I have a 2800rpm stall and its very nice. Not too much, just enough. IMO.

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

Yeah.. That would be them.. I was very tired when I posted that.


Hopefully it will still be well mannered on the street with that gear/cam/stall combo.

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

Well, I finally broke down and started taking the car apart starting tonight... I removed the hood, got it up on ramps, unhooked the driveshaft, unbolted the transmission, removed all of the rusted out stock exhaust, started removing the A/C. The more I look at all the 'stuff' under the hood (random wires, etc..) the more I am looking forward to getting back to the simplicity of a carb setup. Progress will be slow, but fun.

My new rear-end will be here in the next week or so I'd say. I ended up purchasing the cam/lifter kit for the cam edited into the original post.

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

Any guesses on horsepower with this combo?

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

I had a friend of mine run my combo (as close as he could get) through Desktop Dyno. The results are here:

http://www.jcjtn.com/iroc/IrocDynoJJ.htm

Is that realistic?