scooter500

iTrader: (1)

my stock air cleaner thermostatic control and flap didn't open when vacuum was put on them, so disconnected the line & plugged vacuum port on the carb to stop any leaks.

I can wire the flap open some during the fall & spring and wire open a lot during winter, but has anyone ever replaced/repaired these parts on the air cleaner?

Zwrench

They are not hard to repair. I would fix it rather than wire it to suit the weather.

BTW, you would have cold drivabilty issues if you wired it 'open' in the winter.

scooter500

iTrader: (1)

are the new parts or just drive in?

Damon

If you daily drive it during the winter you'll want it to fuction correctly. Apply vacuum directly to the canister and see if it moves the flapper. If it does, the canister is not at fault and the problem lies with the thermostatic vacuum spring assy mounted in the base of the air cleaner, or with leaks in the vacuum lines to/from it somewhere.

Zwrench

Im not sure, exactly, what you are asking.

These parts should still be available at a dealership or parts store since they are emissions related.

scooter500

iTrader: (1)

wow, no wonder I'm not a typist. here is what I meant:
Are there new parts or should I just dive in and start trying to repar - sorry!

Zwrench

No problem.
Just follow Damon's advice and you'll be set.

scooter500

iTrader: (1)

Hey, found out it works, sorry for incorrect post. but along the way learned how to test: Reach into snorkle and feel flap. On a cold engine snorkle should snap shut after starting engine, flap should close partially when engine warms, and flap should be level when hot.

scooter500

iTrader: (1)

now that the vacuum from carb to tair cleaner is reconnected, whats the best place on the carb to add a T to connect a line for a vacuum gague? just add a T to the air cleaner vacuum line?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Off the manifold would be better.

Fullsizewagon

If anyone has ever pulled both vacuum lines from the thermostatic assy at any time, it is best to check if the line from the carb has been reconnected to the port with a pinhole restriction on the thermo assy. Mine was connected the other way around and it gave scorching hot air to the carb when hot. I never found info on this detail in any books or anywhere else so I thought the thermo assy was shot, until I found out by pulling it off and studying it.
As for the best port for a gauge, the best option is like five7kid says, but the most important ports to not use is one (of the two) on either side in front that exits above the throttle blade(s). They are also easily identified by not having any vacuum at idle. The other ports go more or less straight into the manifold, and I guess you could identify the best by blowing into each port and use the one that feels less restrictive.