Ok, This is going to be a supercharged mustang killing small block...so i need some help. I was planning on building a 383 stroker or pretty high compression 350. I was looking at the systemax II or trick flows top end kits. they say 425 hp. But what kinda block would i need to support this? And with the carb...I want the smallest and easiest to tune carb possible, But i still need to beat a 12.9 sec quarter mile in an auto 3rd gen camaro. Or possibly better. So Im really asking for, what kinda compression and block build up do i need, And what is a good carb to feed this setup?

Wow, putting a beast like that together is way above me at this point. But maybe the simplest carb might be one built especially for your mustang killer. I thought this site looked interesting: http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/ I'll be curious to hear what you go with.

650 Dp will get you there...dime a dozen on ebay.

Would I even need a 4 bolt block? Cause i have 2 rebuildable 350s in my garage. There both 2 bolt low compression motors. I would probably need like 10:1 or more. Thanks for the advice with the carb tho! About that website, I hate Q-Jets, But it might just be that im biased against the factory ones. The way i was raised/taught, The Q-jet ran good, But the holley made all the power. And then there really was nothing else lol

EDIT: This is going to be a 100% NA motor. No NOS, supercharging or anything. I just need 400-425 crank hp!!

Im pushing +400hp out of my 355 and I have a 650 mighty demon its been working well for me.

A 2-bolt will be fine. Guys were making a lot more than 400 HP out of 2-bolt blocks before the 4-bolts came out. It could be argued that 4-bolt blocks are actually weaker.

You need to get over your upbringing. The q-jet is capable of more power than the 650 Holley recommended above. While a 650 might be able to make 400 GFWHP, a 750 would be better - and guess what, q-jets flow at least 750 CFM.

For reference, the 350 in my Camaro has 9.7:1 compression, and makes around 365 HP at the flywheel (estimated from 1/4 mile performance, conversion factors and HP formulas, and what's in it). To get above 400, you probably don't need 10:1, but you will need more cam than I've got. Something like a Comp XR274 and a Performer RPM would probably get me there. The blocks you have in the garage are probably flat tappet cam versions, but if one is roller and the other flat tappet, build the roller block, all else being equal.

Probably the best route to get 400 HP would be 383, a cam similar to what I suggest above, and GM Fastburn heads. If you go aluminum head, then you definitely want the 10:1 CR.

What CC of combustion chamber should I be looking for for aluminum heads with 10:1 compression? Im really looking for the cheapest way out, but without sacraficing any durability. Arent the iron heads stronger anway? And what makes the aluminum make more power? Just the fact that they transfer heat better? The 383/fastburn combo sounds good to me...And also sounds like ill have to be replacing the trans very soon too! But this is going to be a weekend/track car , if it breaks its OK as long as it doesnt take anything else with it

So you're trying to build a streetdriver /weekend bracket car that doesn;t cost a lot. Doesn't break and you won't need to be a rocket scientist to tune it.

Runs as if its a 383 but for a lot less.

350 2 bolt +.030"
0 decked block finished cr is 10.36:1 92 or higher octane required.

5.7" GM rods GM cast crank. hyper flat top pistons.

GM L-31 vortec heads modified for hi perf springs studs and guide plates. hand porting is your option.

isky #201027 camshaft isky 235D springs or Lunati 73943 springs 1.5:1 or 1.6:1 summit roller rockers.

performer rpm vortec manifold holley 4779 750cfm double pumper carb stock 70-80 jetting add jet extensions (rear).

1-5/8" long tube headers
Summit 850055 distributor (advance locked out 32 to 36deg) summit cd ignition box 850602 (rev limiters are for sissys)

Th350 trans 10" jegs 3500-3800 stall converter 4.10 gears 8x26x15 et street tires.

Carter #P4600hp fuel pump 3/8" fuel line no regulator is required.

that should keep those pesky Mustangs at bay.

Well, Im willing to spend money, But its more of, I want to get the best parts I can afford/am willing to spend, then let the numbers fall where they may in terms of performance. But 425hp is definatley my goal Another question, Is there an easy way to tell the difference between a flat tappet and a roller cam block without disassembling the motor? I now have 383/fastburn combo, And also the high compression 350/vortec combo mentioned, both i said were an option. The camaro I have may not even get this motor, But i want to build it over the winter then worry about doing up my camaro or buying a new f body.

And the car i have to take down, a 94 mustang 5.0, With header back exhaust, and a vortech s trim and a few other ford/aftermarket parts, but nothing internal, stocks heads and cam and intake. Dynoed/tuned at 373 or 376 rwhp and he ran a 12.9, but i know the car has more than that. He drove it shitty on both passes. Im guessing it could go 12.5 or lower

Uh yea, 375RWHP is a fair bit there. That's close to 500HP at the crank. You won't be able to beat him NA unless you've got the 383 with LOADS of cam.

F-bird - an electric pump that puts out 100gph free flow for $100? Why not a $26 mechanical pump that puts out 120gph? (standard stock replacement for our cars?)

Roller cam blocks were in vehicles post 1987 or thereabouts. So if you know both engines came from mid '70's trucks, neither are roller blocks then. If you don't know what they came from, some things can tip you off. Center bolt valve covers, 1 piece RMS, etc. Those can all tip the certainty towards the roller cam.

Yes, But hes also on stock rear gears, stock trans and clutch, 18s with lo-pro tires, etc. It spins wheels all throught 1st and 2nd. Its a great street car, but I can kill him in the first half of the track, but i need the power for the 2nd half. And im in no way rushing this..gona be over the next 1-2 years at least. Just trying to gather as much knowledge as i can. Im def leaning toward 383 with vortec heads, a dual rpm air gap manifold or something like that, and a 650. If i have the money, I may also go with a low compression setup and a roots blower, that would definatley get me there! All i need to do for now is a 12.5...and i know its not that hard with the ammount of time and money i want to invest in it

Why not a $26 mechanical pump. Well the pump itself is more than capable of feeding this motor but with the cramped engine compartment of a thirdgen car the feed line of a mechanical pump tends to pick up a lot of heat. Being on the inlet side of the pump the fuel is under a partical vacuum as opposed to pressure. So it will boil in the line quite easily creating vapour lock in the summer. Especially when sitting in the staging lanes at the drags on a hot day. Hot pavment heats up the whole under side of the car. Hot exhaust just makes it all the worse.
The pump cannot move the fuel if there are bubbles in it, Therefore you get a nice vapourlock condition about half way down the track on a hot day.
Adding a pusher pump at the back to pressurize the feed line to the mechanical pump helps but at that point you might as well get rid of the mechanical pump altogether. We won't talk about how much heat a engine mounted mechanical pump tends to pick up in these cars.
Not a problem with less powerfull motors 300 to 375hp level as the fuel pump is not taxed and can keep up even with some bubbles in the line and pressure drop. But once the power of the engine exceeds that point the pump which if keeped cool could easily feed this motor, just cannot overcome the pumping volume loss caused by bubbles in the feed line and the car starves for gas during a WOT run. A electric pump at the back of the car that pushes the fuel forward under pressure eliminates the vapour lock in the line going to the motor. Ensureing a steady supply of fuel on a hot day @ WOT.
I prefer a mechanical pump on a street car but these cars have such a cramped hot engine compartment ya really need a fully pressurized fuel line from tank to carb to avoid fuel boiling under high flow demand.
Like I said this problem does not show up until the motor is makeing over 375 hp.

Don't mind me hijacking your thread here...

Hmm, ok. I'm using a stock style mech pump, return style. I do run out of fuel at higher RPM, but I wasn't sure if it's a faulty pump (only 4 months old or so), or if the mech pump isn't up to snuff. Didn't get a chance to check pressure on the outlet of the pump during the bog, but i'm certain that's the issue. Since I also have my fuel lines very close to the headers that might be it.
Can you run an electric pump at the tank, or somewhere along the car, to pressurize the system? I mean, using the block mounted pump as a regulator basically? (Just to avoid having to junk my block pump, put on a blockoff plate, and buy a regulator)

I had the same problem on my car with the mechanical pump. the pump I had is a racing 6 valve pump 130GPH rated 9 psi static. This exact pump was used on a 530hp marine small block in a off shore boat and worked flawlessly. Was even used with the same 530hp motor in a 11 sec Nova. Again no problem. A lot less heat build up. Was fine on my mild 350 vortec motor (360 to 370hp) but will not feed my 400 or my old high compression race 350 consistantly unless I run it off the front mounted fuel cell. With it feeding off the front fuel cell its just fine cause the feed line is very short and not exposed to heat. So its not the pump, its the heat getting at the long feed line fromthe tank, combined with what ever heat the pump itself picks up. All the heat jsut overcomes the pumps ability to move the fuel (bubbles)l the only way to get consistancy is to go with an electric pump.
Thats why i recomend a electric pump. Nice thing about the carter pump(s) is they are depenable, don't need a regulator, and pretty quiet if properly rubber mounted.