ok so here's the deal i just started using thirdgen and i've been having some problems with my camaro(I absolutely love this car and brought it back from the dead at age 15 so it means alot to me P.S. I'm 18 now)
So here it is it's a 1986 chevrolet camaro with an LG4 305 5.0L and a electrical q-jet 4Bbl VIN H if it helps
now i bought the car for 500 bucks from my uncle who let it sit without running for a long time
i bought it when i was 14 when i was no more than a kid with a dream to fix up a muscle car (HAHA 305 yeah right) my dad thought it would be a good opportunity for me to be mechanical and had no thought that i would be able to fix it
but since the engine was running fine when my uncle had stopped caring about it it was only a oil change trans bolts tightened new tires and new plugs away from running good
anyway when i got to the age that i could drive it it became my daily driver and it hauled *** (not that fast odviously) i could light up my tires every time i punched it the people at my school even started calling me and my friends team BADASS because we would burn out and drift everything (O yeah my dad's a stunt driver in case you wanna get mad at me for endangering lives i actually know what i'm doing
Anyway about 2 months ago my car started bogging down off the start and wouldn't even spin tires then i started to get really bad gas milage around 9mpg about this time i decided to buy an air to fuel guage to see if that was the problem it's an autometer guage. the guage told me that i was running rich all the time
so like an idiot i bought a brand new q-jet (PICTURES)
well the problem didn't change so i went on thirdgen and used the search feature and came up with alot of stuff
i then went to work fixing and replacing the
Spark plug wires(Accel super stock spiral wires)
Spark plugs(AC Delco R45TS plugs)
Rotor and cap(MSD)
Coil(masterpro)
charcoal canister filter, Air filter, PCV, and many others
TVS purge valve
Fuel pump
O2 sensor(Bosch)
replaced engine and tranny mounts they were broken in half!
Timing is at 0
Checked vacuum hoses but there might be a leak somewhere those vac lines go everywhere
and finally i chopped off my cat and am running with no exhaust (LOUD!!) when i did this the car ran alot better but the power is still not there and now if i barely accelerate the cars hesitates and bogs
When i accelerate from stop my car bogs down a little but the tires still barely lose traction once the car hits 2500 RPM it suddenly runs fast it feels like a turbo kicks in at 2500 rpm

Anyway sorry for the long post but i've got nothing else but my camaro and if there is anyone out there who knows anything about this car who lives in san antonio texas or near it and could help i'd be so happy
But does anyone have suggestions to what the problem is i got no ideas left

 

here's a few more pics
Thanks so much everyone too!!

 

Are you setting the timing with the EST connector disconnected?

 

yes sir i did disconnected it behind distributor and set timing to zero still nothing and nice engine on profile picture wish i had it

 

EGR valve stuck or maybe passage clogged? I know I had an old dodge pickup and the egr passage was clogged on that and it ran like *** until it got to about 1500rpm and then it would take off just like you described.

 

i thought that might be it
any other ideas tho and how else can i get some power out of this POS 305 thanks

 

well my pos 305 runs great and is going on 22 years.Anyway you say you chopped off the cat?did you plug the air tube?You said the carbs new/reman.Anyway the carb wont be adjusted right out of the box,it will take some tuning to make it right.Replace all or most of the hard plastic vacum lines and all others,trust me some of them are leaking.No point in setting the timing before you get this right.The bog may be the spring tension on the air valve?I think its called its on the pass. side of carb at the top.Instructions are listed somewhere on this site.You wont get much more power from that motor without some money but you can get it running its best with alittle money and time.

 

Is the choke working correctly.
Cold.....press accelerator and the choke butterfly should flop over almost fully closed.
Startup and the choke butterfly should slowly open in a minute or so to the full open position.

 

You should see it now. . .

Anyway, where did you put that Autometer A/F gage? Was your O2 sensor still functional then?

These engines typically like more timing than the factory gave them. Try 4-6 advanced, see how it likes that.

Are you getting any SES lights? If so, have you pulled the codes?

Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks.

 

Besides just vacuum leaks if your vacuum hoses are real old I have seen them collapse when under vacuum and it has the same effect as pinching them off.

 

Have you checked your advance springs in the distrubutor or you advance canistor.Are the springs and weights moving freely.Have you pulled vaccume on your canistor.And like 5.7 kid said advance you timing to 4-6 degrees.

 

You have the computer controlled distributor, no advance springs to worry about. Set your timing around 4-6 degrees with EST disconnected then reconnect it and with a timing light verify that at idle it's advancing the timing to around 20-22 degrees (may have to estimate) and that the timing increases with throttle. Probably not your problem but you need this correct before you proceed further.

Post back if you have any codes and tell us whether the Mixture Control Solenoid (MCS) on the carb (plug on top) is clicking when the key is turned to run. Then we'll get a dwell meter and a volt meter and check your TPS and your carb settings.

You've most likely got a problem with the primary circuit which is controlled by the ecm. Could be a simple adjustment issue for the new carb. When the carb mixture is too far out for the O2 to provide readings that the ECM understands it sticks in closed loop=rich. Old carb probably had something inside go fubar which essentially caused the same thing.

Once you get above 2500 or so rpms with some load the secondaries take over most of the work.

 

ok well yesterday when i posted the first time was when i took the cat off it was clogged pretty good but doesn't the air line that goes to the cat only start to have air pushed through it after the car has warmed up?
Also i haven't replaced the EGR valve yet could that thing really cause the problem?
I also am for sure not throwing ses codes and yes the ecm is working i get code 12 before i replaced the carb and took off the cat i was getting code 45 O2 rich but no it's reading nothing but code 12 stored in the ecm
with the old carb i also got a TPS code and the MC solenoid wasn't clicking when the ignition was on but car not started
The new carb gives no codes and the MC solenoid clicks
for all the platsic vac lines how can i replace them and will not having the cat hurt anything we;ve got no emmissions here so i'm not worried about that but will it mess any other systems up
Thanks Everyone apparently there are some people out there other than me who don't think my camaro's a piece
And i made i "custom" guage pod for the A/F guage it is to the right of my right leg when driving and runs around thru the firewall and splices into the purple O2 sensor wire and the O2 sensor was working fine as far as i know

 

Don't worry about the cat. The EGR valve is probably not the problem but you can disconnect the vacuum line to it and plug it at the carb, temporarily anyway.

Don't worry about the plastic vacuum lines yet either.

Get a dwell meter ('bout $30) from AZ or one of the others. Connect it to the diagnostic lead near the blower at the firewall and with the engine warm and idling see what the dwell is doing (six cylinder scale). I'm betting it's staying rock steady and doesn't change when you choke the carb with a rag. Normally it should range slightly as it responds to O2 values.

You'll probably need to make adjustments to the Idle Air Bleed (IAB) and possibly the idle mixture screws in order to get it in range. Once you get the meter post back what you see.

While you're there you can pick up a pack of vacuum caps. Sometimes it's a good idea to plug all the excess ports on the carb when first setting it (just be sure to keep the Vac Sensor connected in back). Then you can re-connect each vacuum line with the dwell meter connected to verify there are no leaks. Dwell will decrease (richen) mixture with a leak.

A lot of this is in the sticky at the top. You shouldn't have to worry about lean and rich stop setting though with a rebuilt carb. It's always a good idea, though, to verify 1/8 inch of travel of the M/C solenoid. A thin rod (I usually use a secondary rod as they're in the box with my little carb ruler) will work.

Read the sticky if some of this doesn't make sense then come back with questions. I'll be around all weekend.

Mike

 

Thanks for the help i'm hopefully hsving my dads friend who's a mechanic come help me with the car and am going to get a dwell meter today but where are the stickies on the page sorry i'm new<8)>

 

top of the carb forum. one on service/rebuilding the e4me

 

Alright, let us know how things are. Don't let another thread hang out to dry.

 

Ok guys thanks alot well i got the timing redone yesterday i set it to about 6.5 advance and replaced the open pipe with a flow thru exhaust that my friend gave me for free!!! Check it out(Picture) i love the way it sounds and looks
Anyway i also reset the throttle valve cable and ran some fuel system cleaner thru the car
now if i'm moving and i just give it a normal amount of gas like normal cruise the car seems to turn off. when this happes the air to fuel ratio goes all the way down off the guage, then if i take my foot off of the gas it will jump back up and i can hear the engine again if i press the gas harder it pauses and then finally accelerates
Also when i floor it the air to fuel goes toward air isn't that completely wrong and the two screws on the bottom of the carb are backed out because before when it was bogging off the start it said rich so i leaned it out alot
what should i do?
Also i still get no torque to the tires as usual...

 

Adjustments to the idle mixture screws shouldn't be done without the proper equipment. You can't tune your ccc-qjet with the wide band, you have to be able to see how the computer is responding. Dwell meter is the simplest way.

 

OK got a suggestion until you get a dwell meter.

First backing the idle mixture screws out will add more fuel to the mixture. Reset them back to three turns out each.

Then set your IAB screw (center of air horn) to three turns out.

When the engine's hot see what your wide band says. With about a minute between adjustments, open your IAB screw 1/2 turn, recheck your AF guage.

If you get to seven turns out on the IAB, start over with an additional 1/2 turn out on the idle mixture screws and start over with 3 turns out on the IAB.

Repeat until you see a good mixture at idle.

Somewhere in there the computer with its narrow band O2 sensor should start taking over and correcting the mixture. Don't go past six turns out on idle mixture or IAB.

This won't get you perfect but may get you close.