Im still running the in tank fuel pump w/reglator and a carb. Im planning on upgrading to the jegs complete fuel system in a couple days.

on my way to work Mon. Il ost fuel pressure, pulled over it started right up, and while it was idling i could watch the presure fall. Having had this happen b4 I was pretty sure it was the oiul pressure sending unit, I dug around inside and found a paperclip to jump the pigtail. Fixed. made it home that night. This is the second sender gone bad since i put the 383 in. I got the stock pressure/high volume oil pump, so i dont think the sender is failling. Would I be wrong in thinking that Im just working the pump to hard and drawing to many amp by not running a return line yet. Any idea what a intank (tbi) pump should be drawing?


When I put the new system in I would like to use the stock relay and wiring since already goes back there. I dont want to build a problem into a new system tho.

 

I can't say I know what the amp draw should be, but you shouldn't run a stock in-tank pump without a return. They need a constant flow of fuel to keep cool.

 

The hotter the pump the more amps it would need to draw? I can live with that. I had a return line off the regulator, till i used that port for nitrous. I had planned on upgrading the fuel system for awhile , btu the holidays snuck up on me.

 

Why are you still running the oil pressure sender as one of the turn ons for the fuel pump? Just bypass that and have the fuel pump turn on when the key is in the on position. The jegs complete fuel system is an external pump correct? In that case, you'd want to drop the tank and put in a 1/2" pickup tube, or better yet sump the gas tank and run the lines that way.

 

I was still using the oil pressure wiring b/c It still worked, and i wasnt worried about it until I switched out my gauges . if Id bypass the wiring now I think id be frying wires. The paperclip got really hot. If its the way I have it set up is the problem, then thats fine. Ill put the new system in and problem solved. I just dont want to throw parts at it and hope it fixes it


Im still debating over the pickup or the sump. The pick up I can put in, and I need the fuel gauge,so im leaning that direction.

 

The higher the pressure, the higher the amperage. If you're dead-heading the pump, the pressure will be sky-high on the pump outlet.

Hotter windings will reduce amp draw with a constant voltage, until windings start shorting together.

The paper clip getting hot is a pretty good indication that you're drawing excess amperage.

 

Why would you lose the fuel guage with a sump? they just weld it onto the bottom of your stock tank. Sender and all that crap still would work.

 

The more I think about it, you should be running the pump power through a relay, and powering the relay through the oil pressure switch.

 

what i meant was, if im keeping the sending unit I might as well use the pickup, instaed of going to a sump..
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isnt that the stock way

 

Yes, but if you're burning up oil pressure switches, the pump current draw isn't the cause.

 

ok its a slow night at work and ive been thinkinjg about this... heres my idea..


Drop the tank and put a sump in it, and run the jegs fuel system for the motor. While the tank is out replace the intank fuel pump and run that pump as a dedicated nitrous line with a regulator and the stock return line.

Since im going to aftermarket guages, the oilsender pig tail would be useless. This is where i could splice in, put in a switch to power the pump thru the relay.

or am i making this more difficult

 

sounds fine.