when I start my car after hitting the pedal the choke engages and the rpms are high at startup-normal

then I go and hit the gas a little and the rpms drop-normal

then I have a one wire altenator and I have to rev the motor to get it to charge- normal

the problem is when I rev the motor the choke re-engages and will not disengage and this really gets under my skin because it will not kick the idle down so I have to put it in gear and I know that is not good for my drivetrain

one more problem that I have that you guys may be able to help me with is when i start the car the idle starts to go rump rump rump rump(dont laugh, you know what LAUGH) and kicks out some black smoke for about 20 secs and then smooths out

thank you for all your help over the years

 

You shouldn't have to rev it up, the high idle should engage the alternator.

Nonetheless the choke shouldn't re-engage. You can kick it off the high idle as mentioned in your second point, but if you rev it again, it stays higher? Perhaps adjust your choke tension back a little bit.

Either the valve seals are bad and it's "rumping" as it burns up the oil that leaked down before, or the well plugs in the q-jet are leaking and it's running rich and "rumps" as it burns up the extra fuel.

If you can leave your car for 3 days, then walk out and pump the gas once and it fires right up, then i'd say it's not the well plugs. Valve seals are ~$40 for a set.

 

Or the choke pull-off isn't opening the choke butterfly slightly after the engine starts like it should be.

If you have to rev the engine up to get the alternator to charge, your alternator is too weak. I've never liked those one-wire things, why did you do it? I'm not sure if it would affect the choke heater circuit, but I'd rather see a standard alternator that maintains 14 volts at idle.

 

Agreed with above. The choke pull-off (the vacuum canister on the front/pass side of the carb) should fully retract after startup in about 1.5 seconds if it's stock and in good working order. If it's moving SSSSSLLLLLLOOOOOOWWWWWWLLLLLLLLLYYYYYYYY then she'll be chugging against a fully closed choke for quite a while before it "cleans up" and runs more normally (might even flood out). That's a parts store replacement for about $30 these days.

When the choke kicks back on after a rev-up that usually means something's getting weak. Either the choke element is getting weak or you're not getting a full 12V to it due to bad wiring or whatever.

Basic shade tree diagnostic tests:

1. Bad choke element. On a room-temperature choke (not hot, not ice-box cold) measure resistance between the plug terminal on the side of the round/black choke element and a ground (body of the carb will do fine). 5-10 ohms is typical for a fresh choke element. 20 ohms is about the limit for a used choke in good condition. 25+ ohms, she's toast and needs replacement.

2. Power to the choke element being weak..... back-probe the terminal on the choke element with the engine running and the wire to the choke hooked up like normal with your volt meter. If she's reading close to normal running voltage (12V or more) then the power feed is adequate. If it's dropping way down like 8-9V or less, then your power feed to the choke element is getting weak for whatever reason (corrosion on old terminals, compromised wiring, etc.).

 

it was the choke pull-off

I had the wrong one on there and replaced it with the right one and bam both problems solved

thank you all!!!!