well i have an 88 iroc with a 355 (around 79 model block) with 305 heads, it has forged pistons, indexed crank, ported heads, 1.94 valves, lunati cam, lightweight 1.5 roller rockers. with that said wut intake manifold and carb do you think would run best wit my engine setup?
thanks
mario

 

air gap and dialed in quadrajet

 

Is this for street or strip? What are the specs on the cam? Transmission stall and rear end gear ratio? Need more info before a good suggestion can be made.

 

its for street, as far as trans, gears and, stall. its all stock. but i want to rebuild a tranny,any kit suggestions? and the stall maybe buy myself a 3000?
here are my cam specs
> Brand: Lunati
> Product Line: Lunati Bracket Master II Cam and
> Lifter Kits
> Part Type: Camshaft and Lifter Kits
> Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
> Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-6,000
> Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
> Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
> Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230 int./230 exh.
> Advertised Intake Duration: 292
> Advertised Exhaust Duration: 292
> Advertised Duration: 292 int./292 exh.
> Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
> 0.480 in.
> Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
> 0.480 in.
> Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480
> int./0.480 exh. lift
> Lobe Separation (degrees): 109
> Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
> Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
> Computer Controlled Compatible: No
> Lifters Included: Yes
> Lifter Style: Hydraulic flat tappet

 

Sounds like a good combo.
Performer RPM with q-jet would be my suggestion.

 

If only street driven, 2500 RPM stall would be adequate. But, 3000 would get you moving quicker.

Check the Transmission and Drivetrain forum for information about trans rebuild kits. Dana at Pro Built ( http://www.700r4l60e.com/ ) has some good stuff.

 

For the tranny the cheapest and easiest mods are to put a corvette servo in and add a couple quarts of type f.

For the intake I'd go with the performer RPM, and a Holley 3310, or an edelbrock 750 if you like those.

 

Don't use Type F. All it is is ATF without the friction modifiers. It might make the tranny feel like it's shifting harder, but it isn't helping it last longer - or even work better.

 

thanks everyone for your replies im learnin off them. ok now that i have intake and manifold down, whats the deal with having to get a certin stall so it doesnt lock up?

 

Why five7? Type F has a higher coefficient of friction allowing the bands to grab faster, less slip=less wear.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
would this distributor kit work well with my setup?

 

no you want vacuum advance

 

It's not slip, per se. It's engagement. The friction modifier allows for smoother engagement, and does not lead to wear.

The grabbiness of Type F will actually cause more wear.

 

whats the difference on the distributors?a non vac dist. wont work? thanks for everyones help. excuse me for all my questions.

 

For the street you want vacuum as well as mechanical advance for clean burning under cruise conditions.

 

thanks for your help.
so far i have this list to buy
-rpm perfor. air gap manifold
-holley 3310 750
-3000 converter
-mechanical w/ vac distributor (if it was ur car which one would you go with?)

 

The only reason I suggested a q-jet is because they typically give the best mileage, and are next to free at a JY. This would mean you have to get a spreadbore intake however.
If you're set on a holley double pumper, then you're on your way.

 

thanks but im liking holley better. but i do need help w/ what distributor i need, there is so many of them can someone get me a part number from summit?
thanks

 

I found bought the proform vac advance distributor from jegs.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66941R/10002/-1#

Make sure you get the one with the coil I accidently bought the one without it and jegs sent me a coil for free after I complained, I like jegs over summit, they are usually cheaper.

 

A 3310 Holley is not a double pumper.

 

thanks, ya'll are some cool people. i ordered my manifold already should be here this week comin up, i'll post some pics of my project tommorrow.


and where can i find the holley 3310? i tried searching for it on summit and no luck.
thanks

 

i just looked at the link for the dist. and it say 87 and up, mines a 79 block i think but for sure its an older model. i'll see wut i can find. thanks

 

or is it ok to put the 87 and up dist. on a 79 block?

 

Yes.

 

ok thanks, then i'll order the proform66941 dist.
i already have on order
-rpm air gap minfold w/gasket
-holley 3310
and should be ordering the dist sum time tommorrow.
on the list to buy
-fuel regulator
-carb gasket
-miscellenius stuff bolts. ...etc
is this basically all i would need to go carb?

thanks

 

i cant seem to find a throttle return spring and bracket for 3310, the only one i found were these two http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...DS=1&N=700+115, http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...700+0&x=44&y=7 would they work? it says use for 4160

 

The first one you need for the throttle valve cable.

The 2nd one mounts the throttle cable housings.

Are you sure you want the 3310?

 

well now imma have to make it work, i already ordered it. why?

 

this is the tare down portion of it, tomorrow the manifold should come in.

 

and im putting these headers on it.

 

Because it's not a double pumper, it's a vacuum secondary type carb.

 

What brand are they?

 

hooker headers

 

Don't look like any Hooker headers I've ever seen.

 

those look like they will fit

 

 

ok i got my main parts already just need to get the miscellenious stuff,



any suggestions from here? o and wut can i do about all the wire mess? can i take it completely off? as far as the passanger side?

 

I would suggest simply taking all the unnessicary wires and tucking them behind the dist on top of the bellhousing and zip tie them there. They won't be visable there and if you ever want to restore it to factory specs everything will still be there. I did that on my car and I'm happy with it, to each his own

 

todays progress

 

painted the headers


and wut to do with this?




i mean i have read the only wires on a carb u need is starter, alternater and reroute the headlights and stuff but wut do i do wit the relays? do i need them?

 

thanks in advance

 

You also need wires for your sensors if you're keeping the dash gauges, the nessicary wires for your dist, a switched 12v source for the choke if you're running an electric choke, etc. You're going to need some of the relays like your headlight relay, cooling fan relay etc. Before you get rid of any of the wires get it togather and running and go from there.

 

thanks, a seen this harness was already hacked close to if it was a carb before, i paid some dude to work on it and put a new harnest but idk, the starter has a direct wire to the battery and a wire goin to the driver side, and the alternator the same. is it basically almost set? all i need is the headlights, dist, and fuel pump? now i think ive read that the fuel pump relay is part of ecm, can i reroute the wire to the driver side? do u kno where i can find a map of the realys so i can kno which one is wut?
thanks

 

ok now i think im stuck... i dont want to put on the carb b4 installing the distributor but i have no clue in wut gear or wut ever it is to install it. any tips?

thanks

 

"1. Remove all spark plugs.
2. (With balancer installed) Turn engine over with a wrench clockwise from the front. If you have a friend have him or her put thier finger on the #1 spark plug hole.
3. As you turn it over, watch the timing mark where it says 0. If it passes and the friend didn't feel the air pushing out, then go 1 more revolution until the timing mark on the balancer is at 0.
4. Install ditributor such that the ROTOR points AT the #1 cylinder (front drivers side) and the base is correct (may take several tries, as the gear is angled and will rotate as it engages the cam gear).
5. Ensure the distributor seated on the oil pump rod. You may have to turn the engine over with the wrench some more to get it to seat. This should not change the the cam/distributor relation, but you will see the distributor turn. You may want to spin the engine the rest of the way back around two revs to bring the mark back to 0 to verify things.
6. Start the distributor lock bolt and clamp, but don't tighten too tight.
7. Install the distributor cap (only 1 way to install).
8. Install the Spark plugs and wires. 18436572. Clockwise from the top. #1 in the front towards the #1 cylinder on the driver's side. The #2 cylinder is the passenger side of block. #7 is drivers side rear.
9. Disconnect the Bypass wire (tan and black) if TPI. This puts the ignition module of the distributor in control of the timing allowing the "base timing" to be set.
10. Try to start the car. The plugs should be clean still, because you just had them out. A retarded distributor is hard to start. An advanced one will start quite well up to a point.
11. Set base timing (to whatever, 0-12 degrees depending). Advance is CCW, Retard is Clockwise with the base, from the top.
12. Lock the hold down.
13. Reconnect the Bypass wire.
14. Listen for rough running. Could be a loose wire, or incorrect routing.

It is easy to mess up, and have to do the whole procedure over, so don't get discouraged."


i found this and it helps but not exactly ready to fire the engine up, so i guess i can install the carb already

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxyjA6v2G6Q