Hello fellas. Just had a few questions that i would like to ask you carb peeps. First this is what I have: 350/4.98" lunatti cam, world class comp heads, headman shorties, borla cat back exhaust w/cut outs. Well I am having way to many problems with my tpi setup so i was thinking a nice carb set up. Though I have very lil knowledge about carbs, i am doing this myself and do not know what carb or intake for that matter are any good. I do know all the brands just dont what kinda setup i should go with. So all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also with the tpi i was running hi 12's low 13's, and i wanna stay in that range if all possible.

 

Don't forget that when converting to a carburetor you will need a new non cc distributor. For a carburetor, don't go any larger than 750 cfm, and you're probably ok with a vacuum style secondary with the automatic trans. On this board anyway, Edelbrock carbs are considered junk as far as performance goes. As far as an intake manifold, be sure to get a dual plane that is going to leave you enough clearance to fit everything under your stock hood. I have heard good things about both Weiland and Edelbrock intake manifolds. Good luck

 

Okay, but not ideal. Don't fall for the old "vacuum secondaries with automatic, mechanical only with a manual" line. A Holley 750 double pumper will be fine.

I'll have to admit, though, that I have no idea what a '4.98" lunatti cam' is.

 

Point taken five7, I was just mentioning that because mechanical secondary carbs tend to be more expensive, at least in my experience. But be sure not to over-carburetete the motor! That's the last thing you want, especially if it's street driven.

 

I took "Turbo 400", "3.73 gears", and "with the tpi i was running hi 12's low 13's, and i wanna stay in that range if all possible" to mean street economy wasn't the highest priority.

You can get a Summit (Holley 4010) 750 double pumper and electric choke kit for about $350 (if you're okay with a manual choke, then only $300). Performer RPM, a little more stall (like 2500), it should pick up several tenths over what the Ram Jet did.

 

well i bought a holley 750dp. for the intake an edlebock dual plane ,which i am thinking about switching to a victor jr. or maybe a weiland. I appreciate all the advice keep it coming please.

 

Don't forget about the distributor... I'm not being condesending, you just didn't mention you did that yet.

I wouldn't switch to a Vic Jr, single planes mean a large sacrifice of low-end torque and driveability (not fun on the street).

 

For the distibutor i bought a morso set up, plug wires, cap and rotor. The distibutor was given to me by a friend that just upgraded his on his 400 block iroc. Well i know I want a dual plane just unsure of a brand just yet. the one i already have is ok but i want something a lil more aggressive.

 

The Performer RPM is the "right" manifold for about 90% of street performance engines.

A single plane needs more RPMs in order to get any benefit, meaning more cam and more stall.

 

Am I gonna need my computer at all? I will if I keep a hei setup right? Like I said I have no idea exactly what to do with a carb setup always had tpi or such but i am having way to many electrical issues, so I wanna keep it simple for now til I get the hang of a carb motor. I am not gonna take all the wirng out, I am just goona wrap it behind the fire wall and leave out what I need. That is why I am asking.


Thanks you guys for all your help!!

 

For the distributor, you will need ignition power and a tach wire.

On mine, (which was a V6 so the wires may be different) the ignition wire was pink and the tach was white. They both were part of the same clip going to the ignition coil. I cut off the clip, and put spade connectors on the ends of the wires so it could hook up to the distributor. Fired right up, no problems.

 

Its pretty easy to remove the harness, takes time but worth it if you dont like clutter. Your gonna need a return style regulator to tame the fuel pressure for the carb. and no your not gonna need the computer unless you plan on swapping it out for a carbed one to run all the emssion and cc carb...
Theres two HEI's one is the older one that its advance is controlled by vaccume thats the one youll need, the other is the one you have which is controlled by the ecm. other wise the hei runs it self when the motor is running along with the power to it.

 

i just went throught this a couple months ago. Instead of the tpi setup i had a LT1 converted intake. I now have a holley 750dp, rpm air gap intake, 1" carb spacer, a magnetic pick up dizzy and a msd 6a box, dont forget the fuel delivery, you can either go with a mechanical fuel pump, or stick with your in-tank and get a bypass regulator, thats what i run and it will probably be the best for an intake pump, makes it run smoother and quieter. I rewired my whole engine from fans to distributor. I also got rid of all of my wiring and computer. pm if you have questions.

 

You know, I have seen many different kits from all the aftermarket companies to switch from a carb to EFI, but I have yet to see one to switch from EFI to a carb. Does such an animal exist, and if not, why do you think that is?

 

tpi is garbage...i found that out after putting it on a healthy 327 and putting it in my trans am. I wish i had before time slips of the motor in another car to prove how bad it killed the motor. Just the cost to get the motor back to carb performace is staggering(hsr,computer cam/or superram for emissions)

But anyways, i have had some of the best tpi tuners work on my car and cannot figure it out....im going back to carb until a LQ4-9/t56 hybrid gets swapped in this winter.

Before tpi the 327 ran consistantly LOW 13's.....


NOW.....it runs mid 15's

 

They "exist", you just have to purchase all the parts separately. Why they don't put it into a kit like you are referring to doesn't make sense to me either. Probably has something to do with how many options and variables there are (in terms of brackets especially)

 

"NOW.....it runs mid 15's"

"i have had some of the best tpi tuners work on my car"

These two statements don't coincide. I'm by far not the best tuner out there and my stock high mile TPI 350 will run 13.5's. Maybe a cavernous vacuum leak? I really don't know what to say here man. I'm considering a carb just so I can go crazy on the heads and cam (why I'm in this thread) but you have a whole different gremlin there.

 

uhhhh you didnt get it.....i put the car together and it hasnt ran right yet. SO, I have had people who know tpi cars come over and they are dumbfounded. We have tried more timing, fuel mapping.....everything and then tried stock tunes. The car just has a mild cam/LT's/CAI....it has a weird issue when hot it doesnt want to refire. The solution was to add fuel to the hot coolant vs injector pulse width.

right now the 700r4 is toast.......2nd gear blew up


hell i even tried different converters

 

Usually when my cars won't fire while hot, I replace the ignition module. All the changes in the chip won't do anything if the module's bad and not translating what the ECM tells it to do.

 

How does the altnernator charge the battery?

 

Alternators are full of magic smoke, this magic smoke what runs through the wire and makes the magical smoke inside the battery what starts the car engine. If you accidently cross up your wires then the magic smoke escapes and the alternator won't work no more.

 

I know how they work, what I was asking was, I have a plug the goes to the fire wall and a outlet where a wire went to the ecm. So my real clerified question is, is that plug the charging port or a way to measure the amps for the gauge?

 

everybody in their stepbrother knows about the craptacular igm modules in the tpi cars and how they go out so much.

Believe me....when i put this project together i used EVERYTHING brand new.....hence why im so upset about my car running so ungodly crappy. In gear it will idle fine at 550rpm but out of gear like park it idles where it feels like it. Im so pissed at it i dont want to work on it. Its been months of troubleshooting with this setup and sadly i cant figure it out. Im ripping this garbage known as tpi out and swappingh in a LS series motor this fall.

 

And that will be easier to work with how?? I hate to say this man but you have something small wrong with that TPI setup, you should give it a good go over once more before you tear it all out.

 

well ls series motors are far superior in everyway.....they are advancements in technology...who doesnt want better?

But anyways, i have been over the car like a million times.....tried new gaskets and sealing the intake again. The car is a pile of crap......so damn slow and embarassing to drive. Sounds mean but drives like a KIA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1CFWbAfqak

thats her.....dont mind the bad valve seals......its a hot start