I bought a truck engine 305 for my firebird. so i was planning on removing all of my AIR shat. money is very tight for my limited wages. i was told that i could fun my stock carb with out any of the wireing hooked up. im running a hei distributor. so can i just hook up the fuel likes and a few vacume lines for it to work or not, and where can i buy new fuel lines from the carb to the mechanical fuel pump

 

Unless this is a Canadian car, you need to run a factory-type distributor with the factory computer carb. You can remove some things like the A.I.R. without it affecting the way the engine runs, but of course legally you can't remove any of that stuff.

I don't know if you can get a new fuel pump to carb hard line. Summit has a flexible line kit. I have a good used hard line that is available if you're interested.

 

what things do i need to run the stock distributor. i was planning on running W/O the computor but if its just a few plug ins, i will, and does it make a difference between hard and soft lines

 

If you want to run the stock distributor, then you must also run the stock carb which means you will be running on the computer. If you have a small budget and limited knowledge on how these engines are set up, I would suggest you keep everything stock for now and just get it up and running.

Whoever told you you can run the stock computer carb without any of the wires hooked up to it doesn't know what they're talking about. Yes, technically you could run it, but it's wrong on so many levels it's just easier to say 'no you can't'. There is plenty of info here and elsewhere on how the computer works and what it does.

Deleting the AIR pump and all it's nonsense is a good idea IMO. Makes it alot easier to work on your car and your computer will still run just as good without it.

 

the guy that told me has been working restoring and racing sbcs since they came out. he said he was pretty sure i could run without the computer

 

We're more than pretty sure you can't.

 

will it run with out it yes will it run right without it no way in hell if you run a non-comp distributor the carb will not adjust the way it's designed too. they are made to work as a team so to speak you gotta go one way or the other either go computer or no computer there's no in between.

 

I got news for ya, most racers don't know squat about how the CCC system works because they never use it. Be carefull about who you get your advice from and always double/triple check your info using other sources. I know if I'd listened to some of the know-all 'racers' and 'oldschoolers' without verifying anything, my car would be a butchered up POS right now that probabaly wouldn't even be running.

 

haha, he doesnt know much about the ccc stuff, he wasnt quite sure. we were planning on using a holley but i couldnt find one cheap enough. he told me to check the forums to make sure. i just dont know what has to be hooked up and what doesnt

 

Why not use the stock carb with the stock distributor, and keep the wiring?

 

the wiring is still there. and im planning on it, which is good because i just had a new cap and rotor on my distributor. what about the vacume lines

 

The most important vacuum line for the computer is the one that goes to the MAP sensor, located on the firewall in the driver side corner. The rest depend upon which emissions equipment you keep.

The wires that need to be hooked to the carb are the mixture control solenoid (2-wire plug, top front passenger corner of the carb), throttle position sensor (3-wire plug, front driver corner of the carb), and choke thermostat power. Most of our cars also have a fast idle solenoid, but it isn't absolutely necessary for the car to run.

The computer-type distributor has a 3-wire harness that goes from the distributor base to the cap, and a flat 4-wire harness that goes to the firewall harness.