frostindahouse

Hey Guys...

So when I bought My car the previous owner told me the Carburetor needed a rebuild...Then the choke started sticking causing the idle to be unpredictable...and after changing the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and o2 sensor and it still failing emissions...And now it bogging down on full throttle...Im pretty sure it does indeed need a rebuild.

The thing is...I had a gas leak a while back at the inlet nut...the threading was stripped, so I had to JB WELD the inlet nut into the carburetor.

My question is...Can this carb still be rebuilt like that? Or should I buy a new one?

Obviously, the cheaper the solution the better...But I want to do things right... a rebuild I got quoted for around 170$...but I wanted to get your opinion on whether I should rebuild that one or buy a new one.

If I could find a decent street carb for under 300$...I would probbably go that route, but I cant seem to find one.

1986 z28 305 manual trans. Electric Choke if that matters.

Apeiron

There used to be oversized repair nuts for when the inlet was stripped. I haven't seen one in a while, though.

frostindahouse

Hey, Thanks for the reply.

Originally I posted my leak problem here and that was what the board suggested...But after ordering two 25$ parts... one being too small, and the other being the wrong thread size, I JB WELDED it since it is my daily driver and I needed it running.

The Thing is, that is already done...So my question now is can it be rebuilt with that being done to it?

Apeiron

No reason why not. You didn't leave the filter inside when you glued the nut on, did you?

frostindahouse

NO, I have converted to an external filter and braided fuel line..as shortly after that, I noticed my gas line was bent and was severely impacting fuel delivery.

Thats good news. Thank yoU!

DeltaElite121

I've seen used Proform and Quickfuel carbs for around $300. AED would be a good option also. In that regard you're getting a much more refined carb with some nice billet parts for $300. A nice Holley would work well, too. You COULD buy a Holley core for cheap, and be in it for about $100 when everything is said and done. I rebuilt one for the first time not long ago and it wasn't hard at all. As long as you take it apart and lay it out on a table with what goes where - you're fine.

frostindahouse

Hey! Thank you for the information!

I hate to be one of those guys that asks stupid questions here...but I really have no clue what I need to look for if I buy a new carb....

Like for example..My current carb has an electric choke..does that mean i NEED one with an electric choke?

I have no clue what CFM and all of that im looking for...etc. Basically Im lost.

Its a street car. I want the best balance of performance and streetability i can get.

I know you listed some brands...but even among the certain brands I am lost on what to look for. Any suggestions?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Then the carb you have now is your best choice.

The ccc-qjet, when operating properly, will provide better mileage, better driveability and just as much power as an aftermarket carb. It is self tuning once it's set in the proper range. It's also computer controlled and swapping it would require replacing the distributor (computer controlled) and installing an alternate method of locking the torque converter (providing you have an automatic).

A carb rebuild is basically a good cleaning and installing new gaskets and soft parts. Get a rebuild kit and a can of carb dip or a few cans of carb spray. If you need any help along the way just ask. Worse case you mess up a few parts, lose something or something's broken. I've got a few cores around the garage and can help out if you need anything.

When you open it up, however, the turns out for the lean and rich stop should be recorded before complete disassembly so that they can be re-installed at the same position. There's a thread here somewhere that can walk you through it and keep you from having to buy too many special tools:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...-ccc-qjet.html

frostindahouse

Thank you very much for your input!

After reading over your thread, I think I may actually tackle rebuilding it myself. Ive wanted to rebuild an engine forever but never had one lying around. I think this is a good first step.

I am not to worried about the lean and rich stop, as Ive tried to adjust them on the car and they dont seem to do anything...partially because of the choke problems I guess...

One question though, does that write up cover pretty much everything??

So I can literally take my carb apart, clean it, and then follow that thread to put it back (using memory and common sense of course)?

One last question...Are there any carb parts that you think should be replaced?? Like the tps or heater?

naf

iTrader: (7)

No need to replace anything unless you discover something broken.

frostindahouse

Hey Guys...

So i started my rebuild and I ran into a few problems...

first, all 4 screws for the aluminum circle plates on the bottom plate were stripped, and all the heads broke off ...any idea where to get replacements and remove the threading still there?

second...I cant get the mcs, float and that whole section off the carb body...does anyone know how?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Show us a pic of what's broke.

Number 2, if you're talking about removing the main section from the base plate, there should be, I think, three screws holding it on from beneath.

frostindahouse

The broken screw in the top right...I broke all 4 taking those plates off....The heads came off but the screw is still in there ...those are the small plate screws, the big ones came out fine, but ALL of the small ones broke

eseibel67

You didn't have to take the throttle plates off in order to rebuild the carb.

If I remember (it's been a while), those screws are staked as a locking mechanism to prevent the screws from being ingested by the engine. You could probably drill and rework the throttle shaft, but it would probably be easier to get a used carb and use the throttle base off of it. Make sure the shaft on the used carb doesn't have too much play in it if you take this route.

eseibel67

If you are having trouble getting the air horn off of the main body, you might still have the 2 screws attached that are in the venturis. Look inside the carb on the primary side and you will see 2 phillips head screws. You will also need to punch the accelerator pump pin inwards in order to remove the air horn.

Apeiron

Yeah, you don't take the throttle plates out as part of a rebuild. The only time to do that is when you need to put new bushings in for the throttle shaft. The screws were staked in, so it's normal for them to break if you don't grind the staked tails off first.

Cody's86Camaro

for need to look for a 600 holley.. you can get an adapter plate at autozone etc. a 650 would be to much.. now if you have the quadrajet.. i would really recomend you not try to rebuild it on your own.. trust me its to big of a hasle. if you can find a holley 600 that would be best bet.. even if it has to be rebuilt, you could probally do it your self.. its not that hard.. good luck

Apeiron

If you can rebuild a Holley, you can rebuild a Quadrajet.

Cody's86Camaro

yes but a quadrajet has to be perfect. no if ans or buts. a holley you can play around with. a quadrajet is the least desirable carb that there is.. how ever once you have a trained tech rebuild one, the quadrajet cant be beat. there is so many little parts in them its really hard to do. thats why i advised the holley which is really simple and can be played with and tinkerd with as desired.

Cody's86Camaro

also if you lose or if any small peices are damaged most are hard to find new or used in good condition

frostindahouse

Yeah I realize I didnt have to take the throttle plates off now... a little late though.

This thing is in a million pieces on my kitchen table though so whether or not to rebuild it is no longer an option lol.

So I should just get the whole throttle plate off another quadrajet? Cool. Ive got a parts car sitting outside with a 350 in it, would that be the same carburetor? I havent taken a look at it...

Thank everyone for there help!

Cody's86Camaro

should be

Cody's86Camaro

while you have it disasimbled you really should find someone to put it in a parts washer.. if you need any help there are some videos on youtube.com that may help

travis_henry

Hey man just get a holley 600 cfm. cheap carb and you can tune it pretty easy to. im sure it will run smoother and better than a quadrajet.

irocman79

iTrader: (5)

i would have just bought a holley carb. quadrajets are very good carbs if you can get them tuned correctly. i my self have never had good luck with them doing them myself or having them done professionaly. i think that you should be able to get just as good gas mileage with a holley 600 as the stock. I just replaced the quadrajet on my 86 blazer with a holley.

frostindahouse

Parts washer?

I have a bucket of carb dip if thats what you are referring to...works magic on metal.. I thought my carb was a brass color, but it came out of that stuff silver haha.

Not looking for the easy way out anymore though...I was at first, but Taking apart this carburetor has really re-fueled my love for mechanics...

Cody's86Camaro

most auto shops will have parts washers that they clean stuff in.. its like the carb cleaner but eats deposets off like its nothing.. i do really suggest you look on craigslist in your area and/or find a holley or an aftermarket carb.. honestly many people refer to the quadrajets as quadrajunks.. you may have an easy time puting every thing together but you do honestly have to have every little part right for the quadrajet to work.. i done one the other day and i still havnt figured out whats wrong..
good luck,
Cody

Cody's86Camaro

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HOLLE...Q5fAccessories


seems to be an ok carb

frostindahouse

the carb on the 350 parts car is not electric but looks very similar...are the throttle plates compatible?

naf

iTrader: (7)

The qjet's fine. Nothing special about rebuilding it or getting it to run right.

Just swapping another carburetor on is not the answer, nor is it that simple. The computer also controls the timing and converter lock up.

If you need any spare parts let me know.

frostindahouse

So I took the throttle plates off when I didnt need too....My mistake, But since the screws broke in half and left their thread in there, I guess I need a new throttle plate right???

Would you have one of those laying around? how much would you charge?

naf

iTrader: (7)

You just need the shaft? See if yours will slide out, you may have to file the ends of the screws down.

I'd just charge shipping.

frostindahouse

well I can get it to slide out, but I thought the plates arent supposed to come off, so if it slides out that means the plates are off already, and the screws break when you take them off, putting me back to square one...

I guess I dont really understand what that part of the carb does, so I dont know if I can RE-tap the threads with different screws after drilling...or can I just do that?

naf

iTrader: (7)

I should be able to find a shaft and the screws for the butterflys. You would use a bit of lock tite on the screws instead of staking them. Let me check my box later today-it's at a storage shed.

Sparkytfl

I've had those screws break. An extractor worked very well at getting them out. You just have to remove the pieces from the bottom. They dont like going out the way they came in because they were staked.

naf

iTrader: (7)

I can send you a new shaft and screws. Just PM me your address.

RocketyMan

Ummm..no. Completely opinion. I never ever got the feeling of the quadrajets I rebuilt being particularly picky. Just set the idle screws relatively right and have the float set to the correct level and everything else is straight forward.

These quadrajets were made for SBCs. They're really not that complicated. I guess some people get intimidated by its outward appearance.

Cody's86Camaro

look i have rebuilt plenty of qjets.. i have always had to get them perfect before theyd run.. yes you can play with the mixture screws etc.. that was not what i was refuring to.. the guy has never rebuild one.. i was just telling the guy their not easy and should switch to holley..

naf

iTrader: (7)

BUT you didn't ALSO tell him that switching to a Holley (or other aftermarket carb) would also require switching the computer controlled distributor for a mech/vac one AND installing an alternate method of engaging converter lock. Still EASY?

Relative ease (or difficulty) is a little too subjective for universal application, don't you think? What you may consider a simple task may stump me, although I find it difficult some days to walk and chew gum at the same time. Think that's why they taught us not to at Parris Island...Marine joke

Cody's86Camaro

wow dude were here to help this guy out no argue.. i simpley told him my advice.. so stop hating on me.. 86 camaro has computer controled distribiture smart one

RocketyMan

Ok fine. Sure I guess it would be 'easier' to just buy a brand new holley and slap it on there-literally. But that suggestion would not be the most lucrative idea and just cause more hassle.




YUP! I agree!



I'm sure your advice was duly noted. So you shouldn't be taking it personally. As well as retaliating with a snide remark to naf.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Didn't mean to come across so harshly. It's all good, I hope

Back to the OP?

RocketyMan

Naf! You were fine. I think cody can finally sit down now.


Indeed! Lets get back to the OP.

frostindahouse

Everyone, thanks for the help...

I would like you all to know that my confidence in my mechanical skill has just shot through the roof, as I just finished the rebuild and bolted it on today... THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!!! i appreciate all oppinions and posts, even if I decided against switching to a holley, I still appreciate everyone taking the time to share your knowledge..

I agree that not everyone would probably have been able to do that from a complete beginner status like me, but Ive always been good with how things work, so I wanted to give it a shot...Worst case in my head was having to buy a new carb (which I WAS prepared to do).


Naf, you are THE BEST!!! your rebuild thread was a life saver, I would not have been able to put that thing back together without your thread...Btw I got a new throttle plate, so no need to ship the parts, but thank you thank you thank you for offering.

Now on to the issues...(Had to have SOME right?)
The engine purrs beautifully now, its perfectly stable and runs much better...however, the throttle now seems a bit less "Punchy" and bit more "Sticky"...It doesn't seem to have the "Kick" it did before when I tapped the gas...Is there a way to adjust the throttle response?

And second, can someone explain how to properly set my idle for both cold and warmed up??? Ive read a million references to adjusting the idle screws, but can someone explain where exactly they are, and what exactly they control? My idle is at about 1000rpm now.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Check out the sticky atop the carb forum on the E4ME. It walks you through setting the curb idle and fast idle pretty well.

If you're sure everything is set back to where it was at the factory (motor too) you're probably alright. If not you can use a dwell meter to dial in your IAB settings. If you've got access to one I can help you through it.