i have an 84 camaro H.O. with the original carb. The a.c. is unplugged so when I turn it on just the fan turns on(fan doesnt turn on automatically to cool engine)

When I start it the first time in the morning it idles at 1800 rpm, oil pressure starts at 50 sometimes 55

I wait lets say 10 minutes, maybe couple more, for it to get to 220 and rev the engine a bit and it idles down to about 1200 rpm, oil pressure around 38-40, then I turn the fan on to cool it to about 190 and repeat. After the second time it finaly idles down to 500, oil pressure about 27(where the mechanic for some reason set the idle)

Some say choke coil or pull of valve. I had my uncle look at it today and we noticed ticking coming from the top-front of the carb. Its this green electrical connection?

We were at a family easter party so there was alot of little ones running around distracting us, and im not sure but I think my uncle called it the starter solenoid.

Ill take a pic of it tomorrow if its not raining and try to post it(Ive never been able to, if someone could help) but should this be clicking, is it going/already bad?

 

If anyone can help me with getting a picture up on here it would probably help alot

 

Ticking from top-front of carb - that's the Mixture Control Solenoid (MCS) doing its job. If it wasn't ticking, that would be a problem.

RPMs - you need to tap the throttle before you start the engine to "set" the choke, which also moves the high idle cam to the "high" position. As the engine is running, the choke thermostat slowly opens the choke butterfly. However, the high idle cam is "captive" to the throttle return spring, so you need to tap (or move in normal driving) the throttle in order for the high idle cam to be able to drop down. If you don't touch the throttle during this time, it should not only not decrease RPMs as it runs, but should actually increase as it runs. With a tap of the throttle every minute or so, it should be down to "normal" idle RPMs within 4-5 minutes. If it takes longer than that, most likely your choke thermostat is weak and needs to be replaced, or the choke mechanism, including the high idle cam, is gummed up and needs to be cleaned.

You can recognize the high idle cam as that green colored weight on the front passenger side of the carb. The other end of it has the cam steps which the high idle adjustment screw on the throttle arm engages when the weight is "up" with the choke closed or partially closed.

You might want to check the sticky in the top section of this forum that contains the E4ME factory instructions. It's pretty complete, with the exploded diagram toward the bottom of the thread.

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The sticky helps alot, just got to get a better understanding of everything.

I should have the pictures up in an hour or so

Average cost of choke thermostat and should I replace choke coil as well? Will I visualy be able to see it gummed up?

 

Finally got the pics. You can see the green connection on the top front of the carb. This is the MCS? And I took pictures of each side

 

I also noticed the broken connection to the choke cover

 

pig tail for the choke wire is inexpensive and should be readily available still at local parts store chain. the green connector is the M/C solenoid and clicking is good, its doing its job, replace the choke pig tail first and see if the better conection helps.

 

I ran my car with a choke connector that looked like that for 10 years without a problem. As long as the metal tab and metal terminal are in contact, a new one will only make sure they can't come apart.

The carb is pretty gunked up, but the choke side doesn't look that bad. But, it could be gummed up.

The MCS connector started out blue, but probably has faded to the greenish color it is now.

 

Yeah, I ran mine like that for many years also, but eventually I got around to changing it, and it did make a noticable difference.

 

After a couple days of studying the sticky I've decide to take the choke system off and clean it up; replacing the choke thermo, choke coil, and the pigtail piece. Is there anything else that mite help to replace?

Will I have to make the adjustments to the fast idle cam and coil when I reinstall the choke?

Im guessing im going to have to take off the carb. in order to drill out the rivets? The sticky makes it seem pretty simple to take off.

Thanks five7kid for sending me to the sticky. Should I worry about the MCS connector?

I was also wondering if you could help me find a rebuild kit that I plan to use after this summer. My search skills are horrible. I want to do it myself because I want to learn and don't have money to pay someone.

 

I want to try and get the parts tomorrow on my day off.

What do you guys suggest. Napa, auto zone etc.

 

ebay

 

I'ma napa guy myself ... pretty hard to take it back to ebay.

Don't have much to add other than to check the wire to the electric choke for power with a test light ...It should lite up when the ign is in run position.
and that there is also a port from the ctr of the head to the intake that will carbon up and not allow the heat too get the thermostat properly and cause high idle.

 

oooh and judging by the pics of that carb, a can of carb cleaner will do wonders

 

Not true. There is a relay in the circuit that needs to see alternator voltage above battery voltage before the choke thermostat gets voltage.

The factory hasn't used that type of a choke heater since the 70's. No 3rd gen used the "hot air" choke system from the factory.

 

What the kid is tryin to say is you'll have to check the wire with the engine running

And I have no idea when that port was deleted ....

 

The factory hasn't used that type of a choke heater since the 70's. No 3rd gen used the "hot air" choke system from the factory.[/quote]



According to Mitchell the Hot air choke passage was still being used in 82 and i'm kinda guessing here but i'm thinking it was probly used till fuelies took over