Ok I have a87 that I just replaced the pump sending unit refurbished the tank with por15 cause it was rusty and did a carb rebuild on and the carb floods out with the electric pump hooked up so I pulled the fuse and it will start and not flood I am also having issues with the carbs electric choke it s not disengaging so it won't let the secondaries open any ideas also how do I post new threads

 

By clicking on the "New Thread" button.

 

Make sure the single wire connector is connected to the choke and that it provides 12 volts when the engine is running. The choke only gets voltage when the alternator is working correctly. The 'choke' light is kinda an 'alternator' light. With it connected and getting proper voltage, the choke should be completely open within about 3-5 minutes of running.

 

So could there be something wrong with the alternator then cause its new

 

I checked that wire and It was no getting anything from it does that mean the alternator is bad cause my bastide in the car says I'm turning 13 amps while running

 

http://m.youtube.com/my_videos#/watch?v=5TQ26W4PQ70 here is a link to a video of what my car is doing

 

Heres another link http://m.youtube.com/my_videos#/watch?v=8-TuLAUL1Uk

 

Check the choke wire with the engine running.

Voltage at the battery with engine off should be mid - 12 volts. If it goes up to about 13.5 with the engine running your alternator is fine.

 

Well my alternator is fine but I'm only getting about 2 volts at the choke with the motor running

 

Chase down the choke relay. Choke light on dash is working? On with key in run/engine off?

 

No engine running the choke light is on. but I hooked a jumper wire to the choke and it opens all the way. can I just hook a switch up to it?

 

No. Fix it right. Chase down the choke relay, it's the next most common failure part.

 

What Naf said. Fix it right. Choke relay is a common failure point and the next thing on the list to replace to see if it fixes the choke voltage problem.

I believe there is also a diagram of the choke wiring system in the stickies at the top of this page. It is NOT straight-forward or intuative. No sane person would have designed it this way. But GM did.

 

Ok so its been a little while since I messed with this but still havering issues I figured out the choke light issue it was the fuse that I pulled for the fuel pump for some reason it is also connected with the choke. Now it is just dumping fuel again I put a regulator on it but don't know what the pressure should be. also how many turns do I put the screw on the choke side, the screws on the bottom of the carb in front, the little ones on top on front of idle mixture that you have to remove the caps to adjust,and mixture screw. I know most are not supposed to be used or messed with but the guy (s) before me had.I'm just trying to get it back to factory.

Ps. Im sorry about the"No" in previous post I misunderstood and didn't mean it like it looked. And I was just using jumper wire as temp to try and tune carb in and see if that fixed it at all. lesson learned don't remove fuses

 

If they've been dickered with you can try setting the idle mixture screws (front bottom two) and the IAB (top of airhorn) to four turns out on each. First check where they're at now and if within 1 turn of 4, reset to original positions. Otherwise 4 turns out will be a good starting point.

Read thru the carb sticky for setting the curb idle speed and fast idle speed. Make sure the timing is set correctly and ignition (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) are all known good or new before doing any other adjustments.

 

Fuel pressure should be about 5.5 to 6.5 PSI. Set that before you do anything else.

 

Oh another thing too is when I press on the break and let off the carb starts clicking and does out and no its not the one way valve from the break booster I checked that.
Thanks again for all the help. I'm just getting so feed up with this thing...lol

 

Side note, what is the deminsions for the rear end and the front sub frame