Im sure you guys are getting tired of my threads, im sorry. 84 camaro l69 4barrel 700r4 automatic

Basically I need a replacement hose for the air management valve to the efe tvs.

And im stuck on how to route the last two ports from the canister control valve to the carb.

Here is the attached video, i can make more upon request. Ide love to be able to get it started today.

 

Somebody rigged up those "mystery parts" hanging off the top port of the TVS. Just take it off and hook things up like they say on the vacuum line routing sticker. Those oddball parts look a little like what would be used on the vacuum line to the HVAC/vacuum reservoir line back by the firewall. But that's just a guess.

You can trust the vacuum line routing diagram.

Is originality of the lines important to you, I assume? If so, maybe hook it all up for now with regular flexible vacuum line and then see if you can acquire the exact factory original parts in your travels. They're gonna be a bit tough to find in good condition because they all eventually disintegrate like yours did. You don't want to hold up driving your car waiting to find little things like that.

 

Thats what I kinda figured, someone rigged it themselves, but I just wanted to be sure and ask around.

As for the one line, for the air management valve, its gonna take multiple hoses and connections to make, which is why I just wanted to try and find a replacement.

Thanks for your input, the car should be running tomorrow then, ill create another video if anything seems off.

 

True, but you can swipe the existing parts from the disintegrated hardline. Then replace the harline sections with parts store vacuum line. Be careful taking them off so you don't snap off a hose nipple.

 

Thanks for the help, got everything done last night and got it running after the second try.

Now, new problem. When at idle, I think the car is backfiring a little. It jumps around 100 rpms if that, but doesnt sound like its just idling up, kind of a popping noise.

This is the first start since I rebuilt the carb, but ive also, replaced the water pump, air pump, all emissions hoses, efe valve, spark plugs gapped to .035, and the tps for the carb.

I forgot to count how many turns the lean mixture adjusting screw for the float, but the videos i had watched counted 4 turns so I took the chance and set it for turns loose. Also is there supposed to be a setting for the air bleed valve.

Any clue on where to start? thanks

 

Start at four turns out on the IAB. You'll need a dwell meter or scan tool to set it properly though.

 

How exactly do I use the dwell meter or multimeter to set it properly?


EDIT: The first thing I did today was take the Air bleed valve out and noticed the bottom o-ring was torn. I didnt get a new one in the kit and its a square cut o-ring with a ridge cut in the center to go over the ridge on the air bleed valve. So what I ended up doing, for now, was place a round o-ring on the top of the ridge, and so far so good.

I still how ever have a little bit of a jumpy idle, adjusting the air bleed valve helped a little. Could it be the lean mixture screw holding the float? Which way would I want to start turning it?

Also, I didnt replace the accelerator pump, but im going to now. Would this maybe be another cause?

Also too has anyone drilled out the hole on the air horn assembly that leads to the lean mixture screw to fit the tool in for quicker adjustments?

 

bump. any advice

 

Verify that there is 1/8" of travel for the MCS. You can place a small rod into one of the openings next to the IAB (or remove the IAB and measure through the opening) and you should be able to feel it click up and down.

Ensure the timing is set to around 4 degrees advanced with ESC disconnected. Reconnect and verify that the timing is around 20 degrees at idle and advances smoothly. Exact advance isn't as important to measure as long as it is functioning correctly.

Make sure both idle mixture screws are at 4 turns out.

Set the idle speed and the TPS to near 0.40 volts at idle. Backprobe the B and C pins on the connector (middle/bottom) or use a scan tool. The TPS must be plugged in to check, engine in 'run', not necessarily running.

Connect a dwell meter to the green diagnostic connector near the blower motor. On the V6 scale, with the engine fully warm, the needle should hover around the 30 degrees or 50% duty mark. It should respond to a rag choking the airhorn by attempting to lean the mixture (higher dwell).

Out on the IAB leans the mixture, allowing more air in. The dwell will increase to restrict fuel (rods in the jets more of the duty cycle).

If it's not responding and is staying steady, adjust the IAB from 2 1/2 turns out to about 7 turns out in 1/8 turn increments until you get a varying dwell. Then fine tune to get it near 50%. It should always vary some as the ECM receives feedback from the O2 while in closed loop.

If you don't get a varying dwell, restart the procedure with the idle mixture screws 2 1/2 turn out going through the full range of the IAB. In the end you want to be nearest to 4 turns out on the idle mixture screws and the IAB. Not less that 2 1/2 turns out nor more than 7. Make sure the idle mixture screws are always the same number of turns out.

Read the e4me sticky on top of the carb forum.

 

Sorry for the late response, I am basically dumbfounded.

Both mixture screws are currently 4 turns out, no matter how much I mess with them the bogging doesn't change.

I honestly didnt know there was an idle mixture screw and an idle speed screw, but they have the original plugs in still and everything's original.

I beleive my problem to be the new tps sensor I installed, I havnt set it or anything just put it in.

I have a volt/ohm meter I can use, but im unsure of exactly to use it.

Would it be just like this video? With the exception ill be turning a screw to change the volts