i did the l-88 cowl on a 84 z-28 back in 1988. it looked pretty good IMO. ill have to see if i have any better pics around. dont really remember how i mounted it? lol. would be cool if somebody made that style hood for our cars.

 

I've thought about grafting a cowl scoop to an OEM hood. I have steel and fibgeglass hoods to choose from too.
However the last thing I want is a job that looks like it was homemade. I might be have a mechanical aptitude but my body working experience is limited!

 

They do, in fiberglass, but I can't remember who it is off the top of my head. Also I don't remember if it's just pin on or bolt on.

 

the only bad part to that design, i remember, was that water would puddle up front on the dip in the scoop. no real big deal though.

back to the hood in the original post,.... since my air cleaner was still real close to the passenger side opening, i chained down the drivers side of the motor. i didnt want it to torque over to the passenger side and crush the filter.

i saw this hood yesterday. maybe it will give you some ideas?

 

That's interesting. I'd like to see how it seals to the filter assembly. It's not the OEM version or at least not one that I've seen.

 

Would you happen to have a link for the Ram Air?

 

http://ramairbox.com/

 

It's sort of buried in the website and it took me a while to find it the first time.
Here's a link to the page that has the cowl air filter assembly listed.
http://ramairbox.com/models.html
I thought that somewhere there was a breakdown of the individual components that made up this unit but that doesn't appear to be the case.
I found some reproduction parts and complete induction kits from Classic Headquarters. I may use bits and pieces from their catalouge and supplement them with parts from Ram Air. The catalouge cuts are listed in the attached word documents.

 

I have Part#14x4@80 Sitting on a shelf, without the air cleaner, but a standard 14x4 one fits it.

 

That's the same unit we installed on an 81 Monte Carlo (with a throttle body EFI). Too bad it didn't fit under my Camaro hood because I'd have gone that route and eliminated the need for a cowl hood altogether.

 

What I find a little odd is that no one has posted up pictures of their cowl induction cold air set ups. It has to be with so many racers in the forum and so many of them with cowl hoods, that somebody has to have something to show.
I'm going to try and change up the title of this thread in an effort to get a few pictures.

 

I'd say 1 in 100 cowl hood cars actually seal to the cowl. Most people just put them on for looks, or for clearance.

When mine had a carb, I cut a piece of aluminum, rivited it to the bottom of the air claner and used the foam from Moroso to seal.
Same set up on my 55 bel air, it has a snorkel scoop.

 

That's more or less what I figured.
Clearence aside, and I can barely squeak in my set up (Air Gap intake, carb w/choke horn, dropped base, 3" filter) without some contact with the hood (which I've clearenced) the main reason for the cowl is for the addition of cold air.
If I could do it, with less fabrication than I anticipate under a flat hood, then I would as I prefer the stock look.
I think I'll pretty much follow your recipe for the sealing package. The Moroso foam I ordered has arrived and I've gathered all my spare filter cases so I can build something out of them.
It'll be a couple of months or so before I get on with it but I'll post pictures when I have it figured out.

 

Here's a few old pics I dug up showing how the hole under the cowl is not offset like it should have been. I eneded up shaving one side of the hole, which is no big deal. Once I run a foam strip around it to seal up the lower air cleaner base with the underside of the hood, it'll be hidden. I haven't been in a huge rush to seal it, because the air cleaner sits totally inside the cowl as it is, so it mostly sucks in cool air anyway.

Honestly, if the hood didn't fit as well as it did I would have gotten rid of it...but the hood fits the car as well as the factory hood did.

If only the hole would have been in the right place, everything would have been perfect...aftermarket stuff never seems to fit as well as they claim...

 

I've raced a 67 Camaro for over 10 years and for it we had a forward facing scoop that was separate from the hood. We made a pan for the scoop to fasten onto and then the hood would slide over the scoop and fasten to the fenders and cowls. No need for a hood seal since the scoop sealed to the carb pan.

 

Yes, if only.....sealing off the cowl would simply be a matter of buying the right parts rather than having to fabricate something.
It's a hobby I keep telling myself.

 

It certainly would be easier with a lift off arrangement. Having a dedicated drag car does have it's advantages.

 

http://www.montecarloss.com/GoodmarkAirCleaner.html

this is how the monte SS guys do it with the goodmark steel hood. now i was going to try it but with my Big block the front of the aircleanet ssurround would be less than a inch. as it is now the aircleaner with an offset base fits in the hole fine. I run a 14 inch aircleaner just a thought might work for the small block guys

 

Nice article though it doesn't address the contact a 14" element has on the cowl opening in a 3rd gen. I can think of the offset base like you mention as the solution to that problem. That or an 11" filter that'll clear the opening.
Do you have a part number or manufacturer for the base you used? I've come across one that offsets 1 1/2" to clear HEI distributors. That's too much for what I need.
Thanks for the link.

 

That's one of the major issues with the offset air cleaner bases...either you don't have room for the distributor, or the throttle linkage..etc..something hits.

If Summit and Jeg's had a record of just how many air cleaner bases I bought and returned, they'd drop me as a customer! lol

But really, you seem to be in better shape to adapt something than I was...Trying to get an air cleaner to fit on mine was impossible since I barely have enough clearance for any air cleaner even WITH the 4" cowl. I tried everything I could find before I shaved that stupid metal off the side, trust me.

At least you don't neccesarily need a huge drop-base/offset air cleaner (that no one makes)...like I did. You might be able to find something that will adapt...maybe try running a 2" thick element with a offset base??

 

I don't remember the part number but the base i bought moved the 14 inch aircleaner to the center of the hole in my hood so that it didn't hit when closing the hood it also allowed me to use a 4 inch element on the air cleaner. now granted i have a 4 inch cowl. I want to say it was a drop base also i use it on a holley double pump with no linkage issues. I checked my summit orders and didn't see the order so i must have just went down there to get it instead of ordering it. After 15 minutes on the phone with summit I got the part Numberthey searched my orders I bought it way back in 2010 trd-2430 here is the link

http://www.summitracing.com/search?k...trd-2430&dds=1

it moves teh aircleaner over enough to fit in the hole. now with the Big block i couldn't do the pie pan idea because teh front lip would be too small and it would look stupid in my opinion so instead my aircleaner doesn't seal to the cowl it just goes in the hole Kinda neat to look through the back of the cowl and see the aircleaner in it tho.

 

That's the part I had come across when I first started this project. It doesn't list the spec at Trans Dapt, Summit or Jegs but somewhere I read that the offset is 1 1/2". It looks to be raised enough at the carb flange so that there's no interference with the carb or linkage however the offset is a bit much for what I need. I'm looking for 3/4" to bring the filter on centre with the hood. It may be that the Trans Dapt part can be rotated so that the side to side offset isn't so much but I'll have to check into the front to back alignment in that case.
On a similar note, I have some spare filter bases kicked around the shop and I may have a solution in the event that I can't find exactly what I need.
Using a flat 11" base to mate to the carb and a flat 14" base as a mate to the filter, by enlarging the 14" base hole to about 6 1/2" (from 5 1/8"), the two can be fitted together to make an offset base. I have a rough prototype in the works now and it looks promising.
In the meantime, if I can get my hands on the Trans Dapt part as a loaner, I can check the fit and make a decision based on that.

 

Pro-Systems sells a base air pan also with rubber seal. It's similar to the others but has a step built in.

http://www.prosystemsracing.com/cata...92/5233103.htm

Example of it installed:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...gineshot01.jpg

Here's one someone made themselves using a drop base:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2738/...b956e7a6_b.jpg


When I make I'll probably look into a fiberglass one. I use a drop base currently to fit my filter, since I'm running a 2" spacer. I need to do some testing with the g-tech pro before I build an air pan because if the spacer changes the height of the pan will change also.

Also don't forget some hoods like my bolt on glasstek has a rain channel built on the back side that will affect how close you can get the air pan.

 

That's similar to (or the same as) the All Star part.
That what I was considering when I was first looking at hoods. The fibreglass cowls tend to be open along their length and that pan is suited ideally for that. My steel hood has a round opening in the steel bracing more like the OEM arrangement so I'm kind of stuck with the round seal approach.
Great pictures. Thanks.

 

the base could be clocked (turned) to give you the offset you need but if gone to far you hit the front lip atleast that was my experiance. tonight i will put it back on the car and take a pic of it. but like i said with the big block and the high rise intake the front of the base is teh same height as the hole in the hood so making a seal in my case wouldn't work i wish it would tho Im am wondering tho what if i made the seal work from the carb base instead of the air cleaner base. thats an idea

 

something like this work?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/98...ductId=1793558

 

Rotating the offset might work but as you said it may cause interference elsewhere.
As for your carb seal, I can't wee why it wouldn't work off the base (as you suggest) rather than the "cake pan" as was described in the link. It seems to me it's just a matter of building a flat ring maybe 16" in diameter and fastening it to your existing filter base. Sort of like the cake pan but without the lip around the circumference. That would provide a platform to support whatever type of seal you choose. Although I've purchased the Moroso foam, I'm partial to the OEM look of the rubber flange type seal that the aftermarket produces.

 

Wow. That one escaped me although I've seen similar items.
That's exactly how I'd like my finished project to look however...I still have to find a way to move the whole works over 3/4" to the drivers side. I could take that Spectre part, carve out the carb flange and fasten a small diameter flat base to it that's offset the appropriate amount.

 

I don't think it would wiithout modifying it . the main issue is the aircleaner on the carb is off set to the passenger side. about 3/4 of an inch.

 

Duly noted.

 

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...Cleaner002.jpg

Maybe something like that then?

The guy from this website: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=169987

 

i wonder how wide the "cake pan" really is?
any wider then 14inches, and you might have to make a notch around the HEI?
might need a trim on the top edge also, as i doubt everything will meet perfectly flush?
you could probably just buy a cake pan and make your own? IDK?

 

This is what I have in the works so far.
Moroso 9" flat filter base.
Unknown 14" flat base that's been modified by enlarging the carb flange hole.
Combinig the two together to get a suitable offset.
This prototype is rough in that it's just stuff I've pulled out of inventory however I think the overall concept can be seen.
Combine this base with whatever top end filter and seal arrangemnet I choose (I like the Spectre in the previous post) and I'm done.

 

isnt the actual hole in the hood like 16 inches?
i think your idea on the base should work fine.

 

the monte ss article i posted is a very good idea with instructions. but for thirdgens. the hood isn't as flat as a monte's is so if you look at his cake pan the lip is close to the same all the way around and clears the hei but on ours it still would probably clear the hei but the front ward slope of the hood would make the front of the cake pane shorter not sure how much shorter but with my setup the cake pan lip on the front would be non existant. the hole front of the aircleaner it the height of the hood . this is the old setup my intake it taller now just alittle and the hood i have is the goodmark steel hood but these photos show how the cake pan idea for me would be to thin in the front. you can also see the offset to the passenger side of the car. just a side note wow that was almost 4 years ago my car has come a long way from that photo.

 

That's the same look as the 502 I've stuffed into an 86 TA. I went with a 4" fibreglass cowl hood (which I don't much care for). That project has been in mothballs for 6 years now.
The fabrication we would have to do to seal that up is quite different than what we're up against with the small blocks. The "cake pan" idea would have to be dropped base too and then cut on the angle to meet the hood although I suppose the angle isn't any different between the big and small blocks. The angle of the engine (about 4 degrees) and the slope of the hood are the same (or should be anyway).
How much of a dropped base does your big block air filter housing have? I know there's one out there that's a least a 2" drop and supposedly doesn't have any fitment issues. Maybe that would lower your filter enough so that it would be easier to incorporate a seal.
I found a link to the 2" dropped base I mentioned.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...-base-air.html

 

mine is a 3/4 drop or as summit say 3/4 raise which is the carb base is raised 3/4 higher than the filter base so it's a 3/4 drop yes the small and big blocks wouldn't be much different other than height. different intakes will also make a difference. if i went with a factory intake. i could probably make the cake pan idea work.

 

this post has been making me rethink this idea and i think i have a way to make it work for my setup get the cake pan. figure out the offset to the passenger side. once i have that figure in the cake pan cut out the same pattern for the carb base so one my intake it would be intake, gasket, cake pan, gasket, carb then it wouldn't matter what size offset or drop the pan is mounted at the intake height. the carb linkage i have is lockar so a rubber firewall grommets would seal the linkage. creative juices are flowing to things to look at with this idea is valvecover clearance and Hei clearance. I might have to try this. then any aircleaner offset would work for me cause mine already fits into the hole in the hood fine.

 

That's what I like about these forums. Once you seperate the "***** from shinola" there's a lot of useful information floating around and some really good ideas.

 

to bad i am working. (business owner) or i would go to the garage and see if this idea would work . just a rough guess i think i might have a tleat 1 inch on the front side maybe 2 and then i could use a seal like our rear hatch seals to seal it to the underside of the hood

 

Almost exactly. With a 3/4" offset, it's dead on centre. That leaves just about an inch all the way around (between the filter and the cowl opening).
A sharp eye might catch the air filter being off to one side a little however the filter lid would be centred in the seal and that to me is more obvious.

 

Check this out. I think it looks much nicer than the Moroso foam. You may be able to incorporate it into your project. Ultimately it's what I would like to use.
http://www.bowtiemuscleparts.com/product/BMPW-267

 

that seal looks good very crude drawing but maybe this would work.

 

Looks about right. Give or take, it's about the same for a small block. Just more "cake pan" to work with.

 

i like the seal you posted. i was wondering how you were gonna seal it? especially if the pan is only 14 inches and the hole is 16. that seal might work good? maybe the "cake pan" is 16 or 18 inches? does anybody have an exact size?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-98302/overview/

you got me thinking about building something for my hood now, lol.

 

The dimensions for the Spectre air filter are in the picture below.
Depending on what type of cowl hood you have, it may work very well. The catalogue blurb says a spacer may be needed in some applications.
In my case, although it matches perfectly with the actual opening in my AMD steel hood, it doesn't deal with the engine offset.
Further to that, I'm not sure if it would be at the correct height relative to the carb flange and the distance to my hood. Something that would have to be investigated.

 

I missed this post.
Excellent pictures (which I've copied below). Another "cake pan" special. I've also attached a link to the McMaster Carr bulb seal that's needed to go around the cake pan rim.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3456/=l5ryax

This is shaping up to be a "how to" thread rather than a request for information.

 

well i went out last night. checked on putting the cake pan under the carb but there will be more issues with that also. (fuel lines) so for me. I would have to incorperate the fuel lines into the air box. couple an fittings and a bulkhead fitting. but it will clear the valve covers. and i think it will clear the distributor. in the pics you can see the offset works at getting it to the hole. but also the aircleaner it too tall the hood will not close. so maybe a smaller filter element will help with that the pic where most of the aircleaner is in the hole i still had enough room to put my hand under the hood with it closed about 4 inchs before it closed. this aircleaner use to work with my old intake with this intake if i put a 1 inch carb spacer on (nos plate) the carb hit the hood without a aircleaner.

 

one more photo

 

The height problems are considerably worse with a big block that's for sure.
From what I see though, perhaps a base with more drop to it would help. Did you say how much of a drop your current base has? I think you would have to remove and physically measure the gap between the carb flange and the lowest part of the base (where the filter sits). Looking at your pics, it looks as though you have very little.
The pictures below are with an 1 1/2" dropped base and it clears all fuel lines and linkage. I had been using it with my Holley carb on last years engine.