If you want to know if a open air element will fit inside the hole of a steel Good Mark hood ,one that's just like the one the OP has but a different brand, place a ball of Play-Doe or molding clay on top of the edge closest to the left hand side or where ever you think its necessary, we are concerned with the off set of the engine. Mold it in a way that you know it will hit the hood. Close the lid slowly with out having it lock ,that should be just enough to hit the clay .Open it slowly. Thats gives you an impression of the contact point and my 14x3in element clears the hole buy a 1/4in. Its close but it dose fit.
My element is not sealed but does have the x-stream filter top that sets about 1/2 in. the hole with no more than a 3/8in. gap around the filter. That allows cold air to be pulled in from the top and helps with air current flow.

 

Excellent point. I had forgotten that it's something I had done when I had to figure out how much the original flat hood was contacting the top of air filter housing.
I found that the XStream filter lid actually provided a little more hood clearence over the Moroso anodized lid that I had been using but I still had to remove a sizeable portion of the inner bracing.
I didn't use the clay method for the cowl hood however an inspection camera (some pics have been posted earlier) showed the hard contact on the passenger side of the cowl opening.
Still waiting until my shop is no longer a deep freeze and then I'll get on to fitment of a 14" air filter case into the cowl opening.

 

I looked at those photos but could not tell exactly how much the over lap was 1/2 ?
I originally thought that our hoods were made by the same company because the are identical from top to bottom . I guess that's still possible because my engine might be a tad closer to center. Thats really the only answer I can come up with. The Energy Suspension Poly engine mounts were put in after the hood and element were installed so those are out of the question.
All things considered I still think this is one of the best choices for a street car/light track use.Its the quality and strength of the hood that stands out. Here's a few shots of the main subject hood finished.

 

I can imagine that there are only a couple of manufacturers that make these hoods however from my examination of the two hoods it appears that the AMD is built from a heavier gauge metal. Remember that I said appears though. I haven't physically measured them. That said, it's a safe bet that neither hood has been built offset so the difference lies in the postion of my engine. Measurements show it's 3/4" to the passenger side and the overlap between the air filter lid and the cowl opening is 3/8".
Your hood looks great. Nice paint.

 

+1,....very nice paint!

 

When I said this hood I meant our our hoods, and thanks for the compliments. My friend (pro- painter) used a custom version of a Rally Red from PPG with PPG red pearl additive.

 

It's been a while but I've finally started on my own offset air filter base (now that it's not like the Arctic in my garage).
I used a 9" Moroso flat base and a non-dropped 14" base together to build the needed 3/4" offset.
I haven't started on the "cake pan" extension but at least this will let me close my hood and get in a little seat time. An offset stud still has to be bent up too.

 

The two pieces were epoxied together along the overlap and also fastened with locking hardware and red thread locker.

 

Some early installation pictures.

 

well mine is finished tell me what you think .

 

I like the looks of that. Nice job.
Which seal is that along the edge of the bottom pan?

 

trunk seal off of a grand prix/ cavalier not sure which i grabbed bought it over the weekend at pull a part then cut to fit

 

also painted the pan gloss black with engine high temp paint

 

On a different note, while I've got an offset base built that'll allow me to use an air filter AND close the hood, further measurements show that the hole in the hood is offset too! Problem is, the offset is in the opposite direction it needs to be. My home-made offset base is within 1/4" of the cowl opening on the passenger side and about 1" on the drivers side. I don't intend to do anything about as that would make the offset closer to 2" rather than the 3/4" it is now.
The hood closes anyway.
I just have to do as nice a job as you have.

 

Clever idea.

Looks factory made. Excellent.

 

thats what i was shooting for thank you very much

 

I'm putting a VFN Sunoco that extends to the windshield, my concern is that with a carb pan, ( to keep engine heat from coming in) is that the carb won't have a lot of fresh air to suck in, since the carb pan will be somewhat seeled to the hood and the hood will be resting on the windshield. Any ideas. Or did I miss something in the thread

 

Great thread, I have the same hood I just had it painted (whole car). I will take a similar approach to what I see here. Only issue I have is this whirly box on my engine that makes height an issue

 

There must be some room between the hood and windshield isn't there? A half inch gap all the way around would be more than enough to allow fresh air to pass.

 

What do you run or intend for an air filter?
Ah! The whirly box. My favourite forced induction. Looks great!

 

Haven't got the hood yet, but I would assume, there's some gap, do you think that's enough room to breathe? 1/2" ?

 

A 1/2" gap around the perimeter of the cowl is close in area to a 5" pipe. Plenty I would think.

 

Nicely done!

 

thanx. i still havent duplicated it out of aluminum yet. yep, im lazy. it does seem to make the car run cooler. i added a piece of rubber vacuum line as a seal. doesnt make any noticeable power improvement to me. i bought just the xstream lid and used a 14x4 round filter from the local auto store. anyway, some update pics.

 

Provided you tune the air/fuel ratio to adjust for the denser air then it will absolutely help both performance and fuel economy.
Your results look pretty good too.

 

Got a call from VFN, saying I was mis quoted ans they don't offer a Sunoco hood, that extends all the way to the windshield. So problem solved. Will post pics in 2 weeks when it arrives

 

Nice

 

Hey Skinny!

Have you finished your air cleaner yet?

 

Would any of these options work with a Factory bird Power bulge set up? So far as I can tell, only the top of the factory bird air cleaner is offset. I'd like to run an airgap or performer RPM intake but can't with factory hood clearance. Ideally, I'd like to use the top from the factory air cleaner so it mates and seals with the factory air box on the power bulge.

 

No actually. I've since swapped hoods from the steel AMD to a 2" Glasstek. I much prefer the style of the cowl as it's closer to the old factory pieces that were on the Gen 1 Camaros.
Now with the Glasstek, there is no opening to deal with so the engine offset isn't a problem. I have a sheet of hood fibreglass that I'll bond to the underside of the cowl opening and cut my hole in the appropriate spot.
When I'll do that is anybody's guess though.

 

You're talking about the "Turbo" hood where the bulge is to the side?

The only thing I've seen that worked with that factory hood was the 84, 15th anniversary setup. But that won't work with the RPM intakes either.

 

Yes, the Power bulge hoods on the earlier cars (all) and later formulas.

Looks like I'm stuck using a standard performer intake then. It's really not that big of a deal, but it means I'm ultimately leaving HP on the table.

 

I haven't read through this whole thread, but thought I'd share my setup I made a few years ago. I don't use it anymore since I changed setups, but it was nice to have for the half season that I actually had it on the car.
I've got a 3" Harwood fiberglass and this is how I did it. Pretty simple actually and it did lower my IAT's maybe 15-20 degrees on average. I have it sitting in my basement if anyone is interested in it. Let me know.

 

Very slick. Nicely done.

 

Nice job!

 

Once dormant and now revived (without the tedious reading of the preceding 186 posts!)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...ml#post6577372

 

Well I’m back. The car sat for 8 yrs. The tall deck big Chevy sits way to high. Super pumped to get the beater running again.