2knight

iTrader: (1)

I want to put in an overdrive and I am getting all the stock parts before I pull mine, for those of you who have a carbureted car can you post some pics of what the brackets by the carburetor for the tv cable look like I want to know if they're the same from the th200c. Or maybe someone who has done this swap can let us all know. I have a thread in the classified section looking for the kickdown and brackets for a carbed car also correct shifter plate from early firebird so if anybody has these to sell let me know. This forum is great to find parts and info for these cars and a few people have been very helpful.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Go here - http://www.austinthirdgen.org/parts/html/main1.htm

Look up the part numbers. That's the easy way to find out if the brackets are different. I want to say they are, since one is a kickdown cable, and the other is a TV cable, but it's really better to just verify it yourself.

skinny z

I've a carbed Gen 1 SBC with a TH700.
I use the Trick Flow throttle bracket,

https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-20000

and the Holley geometry corrector,

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...e/parts/20-121

Cable is OEM for 3rd gen carbed Camaro with a 700R4. Here's a link to 3rd gen thread on the subject.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...wn-detent.html

2knight

iTrader: (1)

I will check that link out, I figured the brackets were different since geometry of tv cable is setup different, nothing is that simple right? That custom bracket wouldn't work, I have stock quadrajet carb and have cruise control linkage to connect thats why looking for the factory brackets that way I know its setup right and all cables will connect. I wonder if I could use my original kickdown bracket from my 200c if I would put in a constant pressure valve body from TCI then the proper geometry of tv cable wouldn't be a concern since line pressure would be constant, just would have to adjust for shift points, but at least I wouldn't have to worry about burning up clutches. Does anyone have any real world feedback running the TCI constant pressure valve body?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

You don't need to change the carburetor, nor the cable bracket, nor the TV cable to go 200-C to 200-4R / 700-R4. Just use stock parts.

2knight

iTrader: (1)

Thats good news if I can reuse my brackets for the 200c kickdown cable for the 700r4 tv cable, Have you done this swap too just wondering is the geometry going to be correct though, seems like its a straight pull and looking online seems like it has to be at an upward angle but is really hard to tell by online pics. If anyone is running the constant pressure valve body what does it shift like? I would think that's the way to go but I don't want neck snapping shifts either just firm as will be all street driving & maybe a couple races skinny z that looks like one clean engine! is that a recent build or do you have some miles on it?

skinny z

Thanks for the props!
Plenty of miles on a lot of it and more times apart than I care to count.
Those pictures are probably 10 000 miles old with fresh heads, cam and transmission. I clean things up when it's disassembled. It's due to come apart again this year as the shortblock is really tired and the plans are for a 383.

As for your original question(s), my post was directed at what it takes to make the installation as I have. This was originally a V6 car and of course the 3rd gen never came with a 4150 style (Holley/Barry Grant) carburetor. I found the OEM components weren't especially robust and I was experiencing a few problems with what I figured to be flexing and unnecessary movement in the linkage. As it stands now, everything transmission and shifting-wise is 100%. As for the flexing, it probably wasn't the problem I made it out to be and was more attributed to the transmission itself.