Is there a way to adjust the Solenoid adjustment screw with out a gauge that is shown in the instructions, also do not know the amount of turns it took to unscrew it. What kind of gauge is used, what does it look like and where can i get one. Is there a set number of turns to bottom it out and then the turns to back it out to the proper adjustment....Thanks

 

The gauge looks like this:



To properly adjust the M/C solenoid, you need more than just this gauge. My set is made by Borroughs. The tool numbers should be in the FSM (they're the "BTxxxx" tools referenced in the FSM). You might be able to find the Borroughs or Kent Moore equivalents on ebay.

 

Thanks for the info I am new on here can you tell me what is an FSM and where can i find it

 

FSM = Factory Service Manual. Helm, Inc. publishes the manuals for GM. AFAIK, they no longer have service manuals for 3rd Gen F-Bodies. You can sometimes find used copies on ebay.

What are you trying to accomplish? Simple carb rebuild or fix a specific problem?

 

I had to replace the needle valve, seat and float, the carb had started flooding and stalling at idle there was gas overflowing coming out of the top front of the carb with the float bowl. The solenoid assembly had to be removed to replace the items I mentioned now I am just trying to put it back together. Before the flooding problem the car ran really good. The flooding started after I replaced a leaking fuel pump

 

it will usually be somewhere around 4 turns out.

if you haven't made any change to the rich stop in the air horn, you can set the lean stop so that you have 1/8" of travel for the plunger between the two. if you start out at 4 turns out you'll probably find that you're pretty close.

by the time you set the idle mixture screws and fine tune the dwell with the idle air bleed any small difference from 'factory exact' will not be noticed. it's not a system that produces wild swings in output from small differences in input. there's a word for that. i'm sure.

 

Thank you for that info, I feel a lot more confident now

 

4 - 5 turns out is usual. The farther out it is, the less ability the ECM will have to lean the mixture when that's what it wants to do.

"Factory" settings sound WONDERFUL. Oh yeah... put it back JUST EXACTLY LIKE it came in 1985 or whatever. Sure would be nice if the world worked like that. Problem is, FUEL is nothing like what it was back then, which means the ideal MIXTURE settings that control it, are also NOTHING LIKE what they were back then.

For the most part, fuel has more oxygen built into it (ethanol among other things), therefore the mixture needs to be CONSIDERABLY richer (by volume) in 2019 with 2019 fuel, than it did in 198x with 198x fuel. Which DOES NOT mean the engine "uses more fuel", or "today's fuel sucks", or "where can I find some NOS fuel from the 80s"; only, that the RATIO of fuel to air, for max efficiency, is different. Gas mileage in raw #s isn't much different from then to now, once the fuel's chemical properties have been taken into account.

A good place to start in 2019 is 5 turns out, with the "stroke" of the plunger (very easy to measure) set to around 3/16" using the rich stop setting. If you set it up like that, then put the idle mixture screws at 7 turns out and adjust the IAB for a somewhat mid-range dwell at idle (around 30° on the 6-cyl scale of a dwell meter), you'll have a good starting-out point. Probably won't be "right"; but will be close enough that if you make further adjustments in the correct order, you'll be able to zero in on it.

 

Thank you for the info, will do it without a gauge tool