I have a 1987 350 engine out of my formula. I have all winter to work on it. The engine has 116,000 miles on it. It is completely stock. I already sold off my TPI unit etc. I would like to get the best 1/4 mile performance out of my car, for about 1500.
Should I rebuild the engine? Take it to 355? Get new heads or my stock ones ported? What manifold, carb, cam, etc. should I use?

Help guys, I can wrench but I suck with the numbers and theory stuff!


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1987 Formula 350, headman hedders, Accel supercoil, cap, rotor.
MAF screens removed. 160 degree stat and manual fan switch.

Best ET: 14.745@91.317mph-Stock
Best ET: 14.418@95.51 mph-Modded
Ridiculed Founder of the Traction Impaired Crew

oh yeah, should I stick with my hydraulic roller setup or go to something else? How hard would that be?

edit: BTW I have to get a new torque converter because one of the bolt holes in mine is fuct and I don't feel like retapping it. So throw that into the equation! I have a 3.27 9-bolt rear too.

[This message has been edited by Superblue87Formula (edited November 14, 2000).]

Precision Industries Vigilantie (sp?) with about 2800 stall speed for those gears. Rear is fine, but you may need new tires!

Get new heads... AFR 190s. Stick with the roller cam. Something with high lift (0.510+) and shorter duration (220 or there abouts). Carbs can handle a bit more duration the TPI IMO... a LSA around 112 too.

Preformer RPM manifold or Weiland. You will need a 750cfm carb too... I hope you don't need to pass emmissions, or at the very least a visual one that will look for the EGR stuff.

Heads = $1200, cam = $250, convertor = $400 (maybe more, long time since I looked), manifold = $120.

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in... K&N filter... 93 octane...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

to get any real performance I'm going to have to change heads aren't I? I can't get a healthy mid 13 or so out of my stock heads? I don't plan to drive this car around much, and I'm not worried about emissions. I really can't afford to blow over 1500 bucks, and that will be a stretch. I would be happy with a mid 13.

New heads definately! Some will say that Vortech heads will get you there... and they probably will, but you can only port them so much (and the blot pattern is different so be aware). If you don't like the $$$ of the AFR190s (you get what you pay for...), then Edelbrock and I have heard some good things about Trick Fow heads due to a new design. Check the archives.

High 12s are certainly possible on a naturally aspirated engine, but it is also the sum of the parts. 1000 HP won't get you there unless you have the ability to put it to the ground (ie- traction). I would suggest a high stall converter...

If the short block is still in good shape then don't rebuild it. A good short block rebuild will take up almost half your budget if done correctly. And if you're not going to do it correctly then don't do it.

I'd port out the stock heads thoroughly before dropping money on a new set. Look at it this way- Vortecs cost $400 complete, ready to go and work pretty well IF YOU BUY THE MATCHING INTAKE MANIFOLD. Or you could spend $400 porting out your stock heads and have better flowing heads that will accept standard intake manifolds. Spending money on the heads is the most important part of making power, but I suspect you already know that. In all honesty, you can get into the mid 13s without even porting the stock heads so if you are running low on funds you can at least put this mod on hold until later.

I agree with everyone that you should continue using your hydraulic roller cam setup. Get a cam with about 220* intake duration, little more on the exhaust and a 110-112 lobe sep angle and you'll be loaded for bear. Yes, stock rocerk arms are fine for performance if you are low on funds. NO, STOCK SPRINGS ARE NOT FINE FOR PERFORMANCE!!! Use the springs recommended by the cam manufacturer. Also, get rid of your stock exhaust valve rotator/retiners and put some standard retainers opn there while you have the heads apart or you won't be able to use off-the-shelf performance valve springs.

Nice cheap Performer RPM intake, 750 CFM carb (QJets are my favorite), junkyard HEI distributor with recurve kit in it, some headers and a 3" exhaust and you're ready to rock. You'll spend a mint putting a decent exhaust under your FBody so don't forget about this or you'll run out of money before the project is complete.

okay, well my uncle has a friend with a head porting shop who will probably hook me up. So how's this:
-Heads ported w/ new springs and retainers, seals, etc.
-Performer RPM intake
-Holley 750
-Vac adv. Hei
-2500 converter
-cam around 220 duration

How about this crane cam (powermax):
Fair idle, moderate performance usage, good mid-range HP, mild bracket racing,auto trans w/2500+ converter, 3000-3800 cruise RPM, 9.5 to 11.0 comp.ratio advised. Basic RPM 2500-6000
dur @ .050 - 222/230
LSA - 112
lift - .509/.528

the next cam up is 234/242 @ .539/.558 gross lift

[This message has been edited by Superblue87Formula (edited November 14, 2000).]

oh and I have hedman shortie headers and y-pipe, I have a cut-out after my y-pipe too
What kind of times will this setup get me?

Depending on the porting job and flow numbers... also driver ability to launch well, low 13s maybe high 12s...

I am about to buy a 350 from a 72 Monte Carlo, so when you get all the parts for your 350 let me what you chose. I'll be building my 350 over the winter as well and hope to have a low 13 sec car by spring. right now with my lg4 305 I can run 14.9

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Zepher
'86 Pontiac Trans Am WS6, 5 Speed:
Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM 7101 Intake Manifold.
Edelbrock Open Element Air Cleaner: Flowmaster Exhaust, 160* Thermostat,
Grant GT Steering Wheel, MSD HEI Coil, Taylor 8mm Wires, Recaro Seats,
Alpine CD+Changer,Rockford & Soundstream Amps, Premier TS-1040C Subs, Polk Audio highs/mids.

WS6 Trans Am

I'm considering getting the edelbrock performer RPM package and the perf RPM, or the holley systemax II package, both are guaranteed to make 420 HP on a 9.5:1 bottom end, so I guess I'll be needing a tranny next year!

Systemax systems are ok but for the money, a system that you make yourself with the Vortec heads (about $205 each from our sponsor SDPC!!!) are VERY hard to beat. Someone here should post the link to the 400hp engine buildup using the Vortec heads and a cheapo GM Goodwrench Crate motor. (Comp cams XE286, Vortec heads, RPM Vortec manifold, about 8.5:1 Comp ratio, Magnum roller-tip 1.6 ratio rockers [can use 1.5's for lesser power numbers], and a NICE true dual exhaust got over 400hp on streetable motor!!!)

I agree that you may not have to rebuild your shortblock. I didn;t really read all the above posts but you should disassemble the shortblock in a nice clean shop on an engine stand and measure all the clearances. ie, piston-to-wall, ALL bearing clearances, etc... You'll be able to make a decision on the short block from there.

Budget:
heads = 425 VORTEC
valve springs = 45 if needed
pushrods = 35 if needed
stamped rockers = 45 if needed
XE non-roller cam = 180 w/lifters
TChain = 45 or so
carb = 250 or so
Manny = 200 or so
gaskets/misc = 250 or so

TOTAL = 1475 (or so) with the non-roller cam. Add 100 or so if you want roller cam, and add about 175 more if you need new roller lifters. Any way ou look at this, you'd probably get 325-375 hp without too much trouble.