3-point stb?
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Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,176
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From: Springfield, MO
Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
3-point stb?
Who has one and are they worth it? Do they get rid of the *** awfull cowl shake these verts have? I have been slowely going through my car and have now replaced all front and rear suspension peices with new (spohn lca's/panhard rod, kyb gr-2/gas-adjust, moog 5665/5662 springs, lca bushings, ball joints, strut mounts). I've also added alston sfc's and a wonderbar but the cowl shake is still unbearable. I was planning on getting a vortec stealthram for the new engine this winter but will not if the three-pointer actually rids the car of cowl shake.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 595
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From: Albany GA
Car: '90 RS Vert
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
I've Got One!
Hi!
Sorry I haven't replied before now I've been pretty busy...
I have the Edelbrok STB installed on my car. Id does make a diffrence in the handling of the car and it eleminates a lot of the creaking and groaning as you go over uneven terrain.
The part that made the most diffrence in the stiffness IMHO was the Wonderbar that bolts underneath.
To answer your question is it worth it?
Definitly!
Speedy
Sorry I haven't replied before now I've been pretty busy...
I have the Edelbrok STB installed on my car. Id does make a diffrence in the handling of the car and it eleminates a lot of the creaking and groaning as you go over uneven terrain.
The part that made the most diffrence in the stiffness IMHO was the Wonderbar that bolts underneath.
To answer your question is it worth it?
Definitly!
Speedy
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 1,141
From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
I have the KB one and i like it ..
Edit the only prob I have with it is i can't pull the dizzy without taking the brace off... no biggie really if I'm pullin the diz there is usually more coming out anyway

Edit the only prob I have with it is i can't pull the dizzy without taking the brace off... no biggie really if I'm pullin the diz there is usually more coming out anyway
Last edited by TTOP350; Dec 23, 2004 at 11:13 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
From: Albany GA
Car: '90 RS Vert
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
I never really noticed any Cowl shake before or after...
I have heard that they do reduce cowl shake but I cannot relate personal experience...
Speedy
I have heard that they do reduce cowl shake but I cannot relate personal experience...
Speedy
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 762
Likes: 1
From: Long Beach, CA
Engine: 305 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: WC T-5
Originally posted by gmgod
Well, I guess I'll let you guys know. I just ordered the Kenny Brown 3-pointer.
Well, I guess I'll let you guys know. I just ordered the Kenny Brown 3-pointer.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by gmgod
Do they get rid of the cowl shake? [/QUOTE
The STB (2 or 3 point) is a handling mod. To eliminate the cowl shake, install a good set of welded in SFC's designed for a convertible. Just my opinion on IROC coupe. And I have the Steering box support (AKA wonder bar) ,STB (2-point) and welded in SFC's. And by far the best is the SFC's.
Do they get rid of the cowl shake? [/QUOTE
The STB (2 or 3 point) is a handling mod. To eliminate the cowl shake, install a good set of welded in SFC's designed for a convertible. Just my opinion on IROC coupe. And I have the Steering box support (AKA wonder bar) ,STB (2-point) and welded in SFC's. And by far the best is the SFC's.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, MO
Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
I already welded in a set of alstons and put on a TDS wonderbar. I think a 3-point stb would stabalize the cowl with the strut towers....... I guess I'll find out soon enough, will report back.
Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 412
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, N.Y.
Car: blue
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
A three point brace will help with cowl shake. It helped mine alot. I don't think a two point would help at all with the shake problem. It would have no connection with the firewall and that's where the problem is.
Last edited by 89rsragtop; Nov 9, 2008 at 01:55 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,168
Likes: 3
From: Marietta, GA
Car: '91 Firebird Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700r4, Vette Servo
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 Bolt, PBR disks
The Wonderbar did marvels with my car. That three point brace looks like a winner too.
And that LS1... ahhhh. Yummy.
And that LS1... ahhhh. Yummy.
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,330
Likes: 0
From: MN
Car: 1989 Formy droptop/88 Deville
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: factory RWD, WS6 susp
I think I came across a Wonderbar on eBay and was not aware of it's use. Is there pics of all addable braces and locations via this board? I'd like to compare what I have and what I could or may need as improvements. I'm thinking of detailing some work on my car as reference with my Handycam.
Problem is I have one jack at present... My dad suggests I get some cinderblocks instead of $$ on jackstands hehe. That's still a challenge. Love to get underneath shots as reference but can't think of a way outside of the mechanic's lift ;:~)
BILL
Pic is of the throttle body moved during my thermistat repair. Still got a hot running engine but the coolant is leaking via bad
gasket(s) Need the clip for the throttle cable, if anyone can oblige?
Problem is I have one jack at present... My dad suggests I get some cinderblocks instead of $$ on jackstands hehe. That's still a challenge. Love to get underneath shots as reference but can't think of a way outside of the mechanic's lift ;:~)
BILL
Pic is of the throttle body moved during my thermistat repair. Still got a hot running engine but the coolant is leaking via bad
gasket(s) Need the clip for the throttle cable, if anyone can oblige?
Last edited by Bill Speed; Dec 24, 2004 at 05:49 PM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, MO
Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
Well, I got the stb in and went to install it. I've got a problem, The part of the brace that bolts to the strut towers hits the strut mounts before the part that bolts to the firewall hits the firewall. I'm about a 1/4 inch away. I think the new strut mounts come farther forward on the strut towers than the factory ones. I'm going to fix that this weekend with a grinder.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
From: Albany GA
Car: '90 RS Vert
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
gmgod,
Hi!
When I first got my STB I took it out of the box and laid it in place under the hood and looked at it real hard for about 20minutes. Something just did not look right. I did not have time to fool with it right then so I just boxed it up and put it in a corner of my storage room where it stayed for about three months.
Later, I got it out and tried to put it in place and to visualize the installation and still it did not seem right.
I finally put the tower brackets on the ends of the brace and tightened them down so that you had to actually put some effort into changing their position. I then put the STB in under the hood and slid it around until I finally found the position that they were designed to occupy. Once I found that position I took a marker and marked where all the holes would need to be drilled. I then drilled and installed with no problems.
All it took was a couple minutes with the device basically assembled moving it around until I found the right position where all three attachment points hit. You might try that before you resort to the ole grinder...
Good Luck
Speedy
When I first got my STB I took it out of the box and laid it in place under the hood and looked at it real hard for about 20minutes. Something just did not look right. I did not have time to fool with it right then so I just boxed it up and put it in a corner of my storage room where it stayed for about three months.
Later, I got it out and tried to put it in place and to visualize the installation and still it did not seem right.
I finally put the tower brackets on the ends of the brace and tightened them down so that you had to actually put some effort into changing their position. I then put the STB in under the hood and slid it around until I finally found the position that they were designed to occupy. Once I found that position I took a marker and marked where all the holes would need to be drilled. I then drilled and installed with no problems.
All it took was a couple minutes with the device basically assembled moving it around until I found the right position where all three attachment points hit. You might try that before you resort to the ole grinder...
Good Luck
Speedy
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, MO
Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
I appreciate the tip, but the kenny brown stb is all one peice
. I've got the strut mounts scribed and will take them off to clearance them..... Its only gonna take about 3/8th's to make it right.
. I've got the strut mounts scribed and will take them off to clearance them..... Its only gonna take about 3/8th's to make it right. Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 133
Likes: 1
From: Evansville IN
Car: 1984 Camaro conv
Engine: 350, .040, warmed up
Transmission: 700R4
cinderblocks for support
if you use cinderblocks, just be sure you set them as they are to be used and not flat solid sides up, as they can easily collapse that way......set them properly and a piece of 2x12 on top has worked for me, but jackstands are much better......
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