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ConvertiblesDiscussed here are problems and solutions to convertible specific questions, including difficult to find part numbers and other convertible tech help.
Just curious to see what the GTA convertibles go for. I recently picked one up however it is more of a project and at 40 years old I just don’t really have the interest in putting any more cars together right now. I have built so many second generation cars in the last 10 years that I just want to be able to get into something again and go. The car runs pretty good but it needs cosmetic work such as paint and interior work. From what I understand it is car 34
From: *member since 1999, I think - just can't remember my old name, and the big site crash...*
Car: 89 GTA ASC Conv., Prev: 89 GTA 6.3L
Engine: 5.7L L98 TPI
Transmission: 700r4 Automatic
Axle/Gears: 3.27:1 w/ JG1 Options:B2L, N10, U1A
Re: ASC Values?
You kinda know the value of your own car, given you just bought it, right? I mean, it sat for sale for a long time... needs work, etc.
tgat said, I was willing to pay up to $25,000 for the right 1989 ASC GTA 5.7L Car.
I looked at more than a few, and didn’t settle. Paid a fair price, and got the exact car I wanted.
I got it more on a barter with me coming out on top. There’s a guy in California who’s got a car like mine with 124k miles and a price tag of $18k but personally I think he’s dreaming because it’s far from a mint car. If I decide to sell it I’m just curious to see what I should realistically put it out for. I want a turn key white on tan Gta with tops
Well I can tell you that your car was listed on Craigslist for a couple of months at $2500 with extra parts and the new 17" rims and tires. I was considering making the drive from Ohio to Vegas to buy it but decided it just needed too much work after the detailed pics. It was also listed on Craigslist almost two years ago in California and IIRC it was aroud $3500 and was on there a loooooong time. The car just needs a lot of work,definitely worth saving,but most people would be money ahead buying a nicer one.
The car is definitely in better hands these days.. The guy I bought it from had the priorities completely backwards such as buying brand new wheels and tires, TPI billet kit and other non essential items before even getting the car to run. I dropped the tank when I got it home to replace the pump, changed the oil and she fired right up. I changed the radiator, flushed the coolant twice already to get the white vinegar out (the old radiator was in bad shape), changed all the brakes and have taken the car around the neighborhood. It is now a driving, functioning vehicle with the cosmetic issues ahead now. Thankfully the leather is in good shape so with some interior tlc and a paint job it will be very presentable. I can’t explain why but I just don’t have the motivation to keep tinkering.. I’m considering parting with it and getting something that’s already done.. You can find t topped cars in great shape for peanuts if you look in the right places and I might go that direction.
Wheres this registry? I found a 1989 GTA convertible 5.7 car. Terrible shape. But trying to buy it regardless. Owner wants too much money. Ignored my offer. CSR has 100k miles. Needs everything replaced. Back window fell in. Sitting like this for like 10 years now.
The trouble with these cars, especially the pre 1991 cars, is they put the high torque motors and the positraction in them and didn't do hardly anything for the frame. The higher the mileage is, the twistier and creakier they get. Ideally one would buy a brand new one and put welded frame connectors in from the beginning, take the huge sway bars out and put softer tires in it, then the act of driving it won't destroy the soundness of the structure. Somehow the 91 and especially 92 are much tighter, and remain so, even after 30,000 miles. But these never had level 3 suspensions or high torque motors.
So keep in mind, if you buy a rough or high mileage car and put $15k into restoring it, even to cosmetic perfection, you will never ever get the new feeling back. Sometimes they get so twisty and creaky that the top unlatches every few minutes from the car hitting bumps twisting the structure. For most I suppose this is meaningless, but if you are an obsessive type, this may drive you a little bit more insane with every mile.
I think if you wanted the best drive possible, get a v6, which came with a normal suspension, rather than the rock hard one that compromises the chassis integrity. These cars had easy lives. Put in the motor of your choice, put in frame connectors (BEFORE RUINING THE CHASSIS) and then you have a tight new type ride that will be pleasing.
Sorry this is not what many would like to hear, but physics is a bitch when you are dealing with GM products from the 80s. The stiff sway bars and the overly high rated springs are the most detrimental to these roofless frameless 1980s cars. When a right side tire wants to go down into a pothole to support the car, it can't, because the sway bar keeps it from moving. Then all the weight of the right side of the car is transferred through the sway bar to the left side of the frame, but it twists it because the frame isn't strong enough to support both sides of the car from one of the forks of the frame. A wonder bar helps this slightly but nothing will take the twisting force off that frame except removal of the sway bar. Then the tires can independently move up and down without twisting the frame every time there is a bump. I understand if you don't understand or believe such a thing, but it isn't my job to convince you. The truth is that if you have a GTA or Formula or anything with the level 3 suspension, the springs are so overly hard, that the sway bar is not necessary for civilian driving. The car still won't sway. The springs are too hard to allow it. If you live in a region of USA where the roads are good, or if you live in a civilized country, none of this will mean much to you, because without potholes, the trouble I describe doesn't exist.
The short version is, buy the best car you can afford. you will never get your money out of it if you have to rebuild it. IF you are into charity work, that's great because then there will be some more of these wonderful cars left to fill museums when google auto drive takes over. (drive now, whilst we are still aloud to do so on public roads)
From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
Re: ASC Values?
Duke, I have no idea where you get your information from, you could get FE2 suspension in a 91 & 92 Convertible Trans Am & Z28... They made more than 800 WS6/FE2 Trans Ams, and 2200 FE2 Camaros in 91+92...
The fact that the convertible was NA with the 350 had nothing to do with a "Torque Monster" engine or anything of the like, it had to do with the EPA and fuel mileage...
