ive got a 383 fi i have new edelbrock water pump new elec fan 160 stat new 3 core radiator i run my fan all the time also i have 2 cans or 40 below additive around town its 205-210 and on hiway its 200 my 350 ran this warm to how can i get it to run about 180 thanks later

 

I don't know if this is true but i heard it before and to me it KINDA makes some sense! When you use a 160 stat people say that it's always in open loop so that the coolant is constatly going through the cycle. It really never has a chance to stay in the radiator and cool down. I use a 180 stat, fan switch from summit ( on at 200 off at 180 ) hi flow water pump and i have water wetter additive that i didn't put in yet! And i don't know if i will either! I have a 350 L-98 from a vette so....hope this makes sense to ya!

 

LPE is correct.
Is your air dam intact?
With the low temp thermostat your engine is cycling wide open. This cycling will cause the engine to run hot in the summer and not even move the temprature guage in the winter.
I would reccomend steping up to a 180* and if that doesent work the you need to get a seprate pusher fan. Funny thing is, according to the tech software these cars are supposed to have a 195* theremostat and run between 205-220*. That temp dosent work for me either.

 

i had 3 problems with cooling my car... (87 T A LG4)

1st bought a new lower air dam. the one that wraps all the way around the front. then i got a 180 stat.

new electric fan, which is wired on all the time!

new aluminum 3 core rad. (yesterday!)

and a complete flush of the antifreeze

my car never got over 190 today in 90 + degree weather, stop N go city driving!

 

Yes but your LG4 is NOT a 12 sec fuel injected 383 like the orginal posters. Lets compare apples to apples here OK?

 

You have a higher horsepower engine than stock. More horse and higher comp ratio=a hotter running engine in most cases. I agree with the other post reference to airdam, etc. I have run EVERY temp stat available and ran detailed mileage tests. The car runs best at 195, no if's and's or but's. All fuel mapping and operating parameters are designed for the engine at 195 deg. If the ECM does not see a target at 195 it will run in a slightly default mode causing a richer mixture. Contrary to popular belief the TG ECM's are not as adaptive as the newer PCM units. I saw a 3 MPG increase with my TG by returning to the 195 stat. Fuel economy equates to efficiency. I am running an 89 L98 with GM replacement aluminum heads, K+N's and GM performance exhaust. Everything including radiator and every hose has been replaced when I did the heads. With a 195 stat it runs at about 200-205 in normal driving, a little hotter in heavy traffic. I am using the stock fan setup as far as turn on temps are concerned. I run a 40% Dexcool 60% distilled water mix. You can check for closed loop operation by jumping ALDL connector with engine running. Fast SES light operation indicates open loop, a once per second flash is closed loop. Mine went into closed with a 160 stat. Don't start car with jumper in, put it into same points used for running codes with engine running. I know that this subject always generates tons of conversation but I have spoke with many reps from different manufacturers and they all say the same thing, the stock temp will result in the best overall driveability and fuel efficiency. As a matter of fact the manufacturers are working to get engines to run hotter and still maintain longevity because they will be able to achieve more horsepower with better MPG.

 

First off I agree with most all of what Danno said. Second use the Watter Wetter, IT WORKS! I use it in bike engines that make about 150HP per liter of displacement. These things dont always have enough radiator for the new found power, Watter wetter makes a 20degree change on average. Dont use anything besides distilled watter either.

 

What do you ride, got an RC-51 and she COOKS.

 

YZF, pimped, it's the master CHEF lol

 

my motor is one bad mamma-jamma and should have me well into the 11's when i get it to the track. my cooling system consists of this: NAPA 160deg stat with 4 1/8" air bleed holes drilled in it, weiand alluminum water pump, a the largest cfm single electric fan you can get from perma cool (2950cfm) jrgs part # 771-19115, flex-a-lite adjustable fan control switch set to turn on at 180 jegs part # 400-31147, and a griffen alluminum radiator with dual 1" cores. no special antifreez or additives and in 90 degree heat if i sit in traffic it MIGHT hit 200 degrees. usually runs stable at 185.