i am having overheating problems once again, it was 50 out the other i goto pull my car over, i could tell my fan was running and stop the car, and i get out i hear something from under the hood, the antifreeze was boiling and steam coming from it when i opened the hood? what is wrong here? the car use to do this previously but i guess a new radiator and thermostat did not fix the problem. My intake also leaks which i dont know if that has anything to do with it help me! the driving i had done was on the highway and then around town. Could it be a blown head gasket? Keep in mind I dont have an air dam installed on my car which i need to do I guess? If it was a blown head gasket how much would it cost to replace, another issue is sometimes all my fluid in the resevoir will dissapear and then later time it will be where its supposed to be.

 

Get that airdam on there!!! I ran without one for a while with the stock grill and 195 thermostat. I put the airdam on-what a difference!! Then I switched to a 160 stat and Z-28 grill-she gets to 160-165 and stays put.
But for your particular problem-there could be something clogging your cooling system or your stat could be bad. I had that same problem. Some people drill two or three 1/8" holes in the stat also. My stock manifold leaked on the front passangerside as well-I guess they're known to do that. Anyways, try these suggestions-if they don't work try posting this in the "Cooling it down" board.

 

I agree, it could be your stat. If you want to see if it works, stick it in a pot of water at whatever temp stat it is and see if it 'opens' or not. If it's not opening, your not getting coolant circulated throughout the cooling system.
Your water pump could also be bad. Lack of pressure could also make the water boil and heat up badly. Or, your system may just be clogged up somewhere. If all else fails, run some of that stuff in with the coolant system that eats away rust and what not. But I woudlnt do that until last, I dont know how good it is for your engine and components...?

 

you manifold leaking is a problem that need s to be addressed. it is not likely to be the cause of your cooling problem, but it will be if you let it go.
don't forget to check yoru rad cap. it is the most overlooked part of the cooling system. if it is not holding pressure the surface tension of the water is reduced and it will boil very easily.

later
tim

 

First it sounds like the system has air and the amount of coolant is low. Second get an airdam. It is a critical part of the cooling system. You also may be losing system pressure, possibly because of that leaky intake gasket. They like to leak at the front water passage where it loops through the intake. I would get a system pressure test, it's simple enough and may reveal unknown issues.

 

Replace the radiator cap. It's entirely possible that the car isn't overheating at all, but rather the cap doesn't hold pressure, so the coolant can boil even at normal temperatures.

The radiator cap is how the coolant gets put into the reservoir, and then drawn back into the engine when needed. Replace it. It's obviously bad.

 

Or better yet, an excuse to buy a new tool

Go get one of the coolant system pressure testers. You connect it up and pump up pressure into the system and see if it holds.

I got one of these a long time ago when I was still wrenching for a living. It was fun to show customers why their radiator / hoses etc needed replacing...pump it up...and you could hear the leaks

But seriously, if you've never replaced the cap, I would. I chased a weird intermittent overheat problem on a neighbor's truck on and off for awhile...he repeatedly told me he'd replaced the cap. He had...with alot lower psi cap...and it would of course boil over faster.

HTH

 

i'd agree with re fitting the air dam, and a new rad cap, but also sounds like there is an air lock in the cooling system. does the heater work? if not, then it could well be an airlock.


try running it up, without the rad cap on, and the heater (not the blower though) on full hot. you will loose a little water to expansion though, so have some antifreeze ready to top up with. when the stat opens, any air should belch through.

(standard bleeding procedure, unless anyone knows a better way?i assume it works on thirdgens, when i fitted my rad, i didn't get any airlocks doing this.)

 

well my fan switch is the problem or one of the problems i have discovered this and i ordered the hypertech switch

 

what one did you get? temp on / off wise.

 

200 on and off at 185 temperature

 

The Camaro cooling system seems to be way too sensitive to any leaks which not only let coolant out, but also let air get in when the engine cools.

Once the air gets in, you are in trouble.

The problem is mainly because the top hose is higher than the radiator and it forces the air to mix with coolant like a soda is mixed with carbon dioxide. That means instead of air collectng at the top of the radiator, like the old type radiators which held the air space at the top, the air get drawn around the system.

The air stops the cooling system cooling, it lowers the level of coolant in the radiator core so there is less cooling going on, and it expands like shaken up sodas, enough to blow out the coolant.

You get a nasty circle of air making the engine hotter, displacing coolant and the engine getting hotter again.

So if you have a leak, you will overheat sooner or later. Plus you will need all the other stuff mentioned in the postings.

 

i replaced my fan switch, problem solved

 

Philolds...:

What about of the following coolant bleeding procedure?:


- Coolant Full Level
- Heater On
- With RAD CAP
- Without THERMOSTAT

Then the coolant circuit will be free for coolant circulation around the radiator - hose - water pump - engine - hose -......

Thanks for the reply and opinnions,

Denis V.

 

even easier - buy the morosso filler neck that fits into the top hose, and fill from there (it then becomes the highest point in the system.

drill the expansion tank cap, and vent the overflow from the filler neck into it.

the system will now be self bleeding, as the highest point has a means for air to escape.


this is, of corse, only a theory. has anyone tried it?

 

I have a question for any of you. I have a 91 RS 305 and it's overheating really bad. I have replaced the radiator, 2 thermostats, waterpump, coolant, and had the head gasket checked and it's still overheating so what else can I do????