whats an air dam? pics?
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Connecticut
Car: 91' Firebird
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: WC T5
whats an air dam? pics?
i've been hearing about these for a bit, im sure i have one but what do they look like, kinda new to this....kinda curious...thanx...dont laugh
the air dam is the black/dark gray plastic air deflector that mounts below the radiator, and it's about 3" high and runs the width of the car on some with ground effects, and at least under the radiator. it's responsible for A LOT of the cooling, so if you don't have one, get one.
Originally posted by 86FirebirdV8350
how much is one of those little guys?
how much is one of those little guys?
(you really only need the center section. the outside parts are nice to have and probably help aerodynamics, but the center does 80% of the cooling)
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From: NJ
Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: th700R4
i never even heard of one until a friend told me.. once i got one car ran like new! i got mine from a scrap yard for 10 bucks but the dealers in NJ wanted 35 for it
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: '87 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: Auto
Originally posted by z28onTweenkies
that air damn is the thing that always scrapes when you come into parking lots or whatnot.
that air damn is the thing that always scrapes when you come into parking lots or whatnot.
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From: IOWA
Car: 86 TRANSAM
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Patrickm00 says his is about 3 inches high. On my 86 TA,it is very short. And it was rounding back at the bottom edge so I knew it wasn't pulling enough air through. I went to the junk yard and got an air dam off a Chev S-10 pickup. The bolts are on the outside and is easy to remove. It also has bracing at the bottom edge on the back side which will help. I just laid it over the one on the car, drilled some 1/4 inch holes, and bolted it on. Total cost, $5.00 for the air dam, and $2.00 for the bolts. I adjusted mine down closer to the road since I have a 406 and needed more cooling. Works well but I havent had it out in real hot weather yet. I used a jig saw to cut it the same width asthe radiator.
going closer to the ground won't necessarily make for better cooling. it not only deflects air upward, but this causes a low pressure and turbulent area behind it, which causes some air to swirl upwards into the engine compartment.
i've got a 92, so the length may be a bit different than yours, but the stock heights should be ok. another inch or so probably won't hurt, but just don't go too far.
i've got a 92, so the length may be a bit different than yours, but the stock heights should be ok. another inch or so probably won't hurt, but just don't go too far.
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From: Faribault, Minnesota
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
They suck though when u have to crawl under your car to look at something and its in the way or you coming out from under the car and it catches ya and wont let yua go...AHHH...but still good though
Originally posted by 87Formula4bbl
Mine was pretty ragged and torn, so I took it off, havent had any heating problems as of yet, but who knows, its not summer yet.
Mine was pretty ragged and torn, so I took it off, havent had any heating problems as of yet, but who knows, its not summer yet.
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From: NJ
Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: th700R4
I still look at mine and think... how the hell could such a little minute piece of PLASTIC be the solution of my seemingly never ending overheating problem
honestly, i didn't know what a big difference it made until i disassembled the body of my car while painting. well, that part ended up getting misplaced, and i didn't think it'd be a big deal w/2 big fans there. well, 7 miles later, things were getting a little to hot under the collar, and i've never driven w/o one since.
Originally posted by patrickm00
going closer to the ground won't necessarily make for better cooling. it not only deflects air upward, but this causes a low pressure and turbulent area behind it, which causes some air to swirl upwards into the engine compartment.
i've got a 92, so the length may be a bit different than yours, but the stock heights should be ok. another inch or so probably won't hurt, but just don't go too far.
going closer to the ground won't necessarily make for better cooling. it not only deflects air upward, but this causes a low pressure and turbulent area behind it, which causes some air to swirl upwards into the engine compartment.
i've got a 92, so the length may be a bit different than yours, but the stock heights should be ok. another inch or so probably won't hurt, but just don't go too far.

You'll see most F1 and NASCAR bodies have almost NO clearance between the air dam, shirts, and ground. The rear is left wide open to help create a vacuum under the body to help hold it down even more. The turbulent air left behind isn't your problem, but could be an issue for the guy on your bumper. They've been on my car since 1995, and I haven't wiped them off on ramps or curbs yet.
belive me, i'm an aerospace engineer, so i understand turbulent and laminar flows
what i was talking about was the turbulence caused by vortex shedding in the flow up towards the radiator/engine, not really under the rest of the car.
part of the reason the back end of race cars is left wide open is also for reduced drag. most cars leave lots of turbulent air behind them, that's why drafting works, since the reconnection of the top/bottom flows doesn't happen until later, so there's less of a loss to the front car and back car, since they're only taking about half each, as the flow stays mostly laminar between them.
what i was talking about was the turbulence caused by vortex shedding in the flow up towards the radiator/engine, not really under the rest of the car.
part of the reason the back end of race cars is left wide open is also for reduced drag. most cars leave lots of turbulent air behind them, that's why drafting works, since the reconnection of the top/bottom flows doesn't happen until later, so there's less of a loss to the front car and back car, since they're only taking about half each, as the flow stays mostly laminar between them.
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From: In the state of bliss
Car: 1984 Pontiac Firebird
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Transmission: 5 speed manual
Originally posted by patrickm00
belive me, i'm an aerospace engineer, so i understand turbulent and laminar flows
what i was talking about was the turbulence caused by vortex shedding in the flow up towards the radiator/engine, not really under the rest of the car.
part of the reason the back end of race cars is left wide open is also for reduced drag. most cars leave lots of turbulent air behind them, that's why drafting works, since the reconnection of the top/bottom flows doesn't happen until later, so there's less of a loss to the front car and back car, since they're only taking about half each, as the flow stays mostly laminar between them.
belive me, i'm an aerospace engineer, so i understand turbulent and laminar flows
what i was talking about was the turbulence caused by vortex shedding in the flow up towards the radiator/engine, not really under the rest of the car.
part of the reason the back end of race cars is left wide open is also for reduced drag. most cars leave lots of turbulent air behind them, that's why drafting works, since the reconnection of the top/bottom flows doesn't happen until later, so there's less of a loss to the front car and back car, since they're only taking about half each, as the flow stays mostly laminar between them.
in english please.
j/k.so having your car higher off the ground or lower to the ground is better for cooling? Or does it even make a difference?
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From: Portales, NM USA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Just a note while we are on the subject of "air dams". There can be much confusion and margin of error on this topic. It starts because we call them air dams. GM does not.... they're called "deflectors" or "baffles".
Also there are several baffles and several styles depending on the year. Some people speak of the "3 piece" strip whereas my 86 has a 1 piece strip. Using the drawing below for reference this is my humble opinion.
All of us Firebird (T/A) owners because of the lack of a grille suck up airflow from beneath. We all have some type of strip like part number 11. Some of us have 1 piece, some have 3. Some of us check under our cars and say "yep" it's there.
However: there is a much more important baffle and that would be part #10. The part that bolts to the bottom of the radiator and that part #11 bolts to it.
While it is possible to be without part 11 and not overheat, should you have part 10 missing or damaged you most definitely will overheat.
Both of these parts are air baffles sometimes called "air dams".
<img src=http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/pix/post/arc/airdam-2.gif>
Also there are several baffles and several styles depending on the year. Some people speak of the "3 piece" strip whereas my 86 has a 1 piece strip. Using the drawing below for reference this is my humble opinion.
All of us Firebird (T/A) owners because of the lack of a grille suck up airflow from beneath. We all have some type of strip like part number 11. Some of us have 1 piece, some have 3. Some of us check under our cars and say "yep" it's there.
However: there is a much more important baffle and that would be part #10. The part that bolts to the bottom of the radiator and that part #11 bolts to it.
While it is possible to be without part 11 and not overheat, should you have part 10 missing or damaged you most definitely will overheat.
Both of these parts are air baffles sometimes called "air dams".
<img src=http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/pix/post/arc/airdam-2.gif>
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From: Thornton colorado
Car: 91 Camaro RS
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i made up one out of metal that looked really good until i caught it pulling out of a driveway, it looked clean but naturally was sharp as hell i had a squirel go under one time and i thought he had ducked down enough to clear i got to school and a squirrel head fell off that little ledge in front of the radiator. ooops
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From: In the state of bliss
Car: 1984 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.5L Iron Duke 4 cylinder
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That is sick.......
I heard a story where a dude driving a big lifted 4x4 hit a dog. By the time he got home he had to "pick" out the dog from his suspention parts under the truck.
uke:
I heard a story where a dude driving a big lifted 4x4 hit a dog. By the time he got home he had to "pick" out the dog from his suspention parts under the truck.
uke:
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From: Seattle, Washington, United States
Car: 1986 Trans Am WS6
Engine: Mild 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Is there something else you can do to cool your engine down so you can take the deflector off? that thing is just a PITA. Im on my second one already.
Originally posted by Project_1986_TA
Is there something else you can do to cool your engine down so you can take the deflector off? that thing is just a PITA. Im on my second one already.
Is there something else you can do to cool your engine down so you can take the deflector off? that thing is just a PITA. Im on my second one already.
Originally posted by Project_1986_TA
Is there something else you can do to cool your engine down so you can take the deflector off? that thing is just a PITA. Im on my second one already.
Is there something else you can do to cool your engine down so you can take the deflector off? that thing is just a PITA. Im on my second one already.
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From: Ft Worth, TX USA
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I have been making my own aluminum air dams to replace parts number 10 and 11 above for 3 years now and I am sick of them breaking (al. sucks for cracking).
What you would want to do is make your own chin duct that goes under the front of the bumper and mates to the hole the air gets "deflected" into by the stock dam.
I am going to lay one up out of glass and see how well it cools. then I might sell them if it works well.
The only problem with having a real DUCT is that the aero loads from going fast could rip it off whereas the air dam from the factory just bends back. So it prolly will weigh more than the stock dam.
What you would want to do is make your own chin duct that goes under the front of the bumper and mates to the hole the air gets "deflected" into by the stock dam.
I am going to lay one up out of glass and see how well it cools. then I might sell them if it works well.
The only problem with having a real DUCT is that the aero loads from going fast could rip it off whereas the air dam from the factory just bends back. So it prolly will weigh more than the stock dam.
those air damns are so annoying
i took mine off cuz it scraped going over just about everything except a perfectly flat road....
then the engine started running really hot....
and i think my dad threw it out so i have to buy a new one
they really are necessary for cooling though
i took mine off cuz it scraped going over just about everything except a perfectly flat road....
then the engine started running really hot....
and i think my dad threw it out so i have to buy a new one
they really are necessary for cooling though
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
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umm, theres a reason the factory air dam is made of plastic....
it flexes...
if you want to make one out of alum or fiberglass, you'll need to put it on a hinge of some sort..
id reccomend a double spring loaded hinge... that way it stays still but can still fold forward and backward... C5 corvettes have somthing very similar.
it flexes...
if you want to make one out of alum or fiberglass, you'll need to put it on a hinge of some sort..
id reccomend a double spring loaded hinge... that way it stays still but can still fold forward and backward... C5 corvettes have somthing very similar.
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