Hey, my car is an '89 IROC-Z 350 TPI. I would maybe like to install a new water pump since summer is just about here (or is it already?) Anyways, it's starting to warm up here in so cal so it's time for a new water pump. First off, is my stock one a short or long? Is it standard or reverse rotation? Now that we've got that out of the way, should I go with an aluminum edelbrock or a weiand? Will either of these brands flow a lot more coolant than my stocker? Will a new pump bolt right up to my engine and work on the belt that I have right now? Maybe some of you can throw out some part numbers for me too. I looked on summit, but I don't really know what to look for. Thanks a lot. -89IRO

 

Get a Stewart Stage 1 from www.stewartcomponents.com they are the best quality replacement waterpumps for the money.

The waterpump is the long style and is the reverse rotation on the serpentine belt setup.

Stewart pumps are made with heavy duty double ball bearing races and the internal castings are made to flow more efficiently.

Order Stage 1 part #13123 $74.95 (cast iron)
or Stage 2 part #23123 $159.95 (cast aluminum)

 

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/htm...rtNumber=13123


Is this what you are talking about? If so, it isn't made out of aluminum, so wouldn't the edelbrock be better? Is it just as high-flowing as a weind or edelbrock? And most importantly, will my stock belt drive bolt right onto that 4 bolt thing? So basically, it will be the same as stock, this is good. Will it come with instructions for torque settings? Also, are you sure my system is reverse rotation? If it is, then the hot coolant is coming through the top radiator hose into the radiator and the bottom hose is taking the cooler coolant into the pump right? O.K., anyone else with opinons on this pump? I'm just a little worried because I've never heared of this brand, and it's only $74 (which is a good thing I guess, just hoping it isn't cheap.) Thank you . -89IRO

 

Oh, I didn't see that you wrote the part # for the aluminum one. Is there a performance difference between it and the cast iron one besides weight? Oh, I forgot to ask if I will notice a difference between these and my stocker?

Now, if I go with the stage 2, I will need their high-flow thermostat-no big deal, but is this stage 2 getting too series for the street? If I stayed with the stage 1, should I leave my (new) 195 stat or use their high flow 195? And no, I am not using anything lower than 195....period. I know I asked A LOT of qestions, and I really appreciate your help. -89IRO

 

The Aluminum Stage 2 pump has more internal modifications done but, besides the weight savings I thinks it's a little over kill for a lighltly modified LO3.

Reverse Rotation just means that the waterpump Impeller rotates opposite of the Crankshaft.

Everything bolts up perfectly because the Stewart waterpumps use New GM castings that are modified with higher quality parts.

Yes, I've used all different degrees of thermostats and found that the 195* thermostat provides the most consistant temperatures.

These Stewart Water Pumps are of high quality and I purchased the Stage 1 because of recommendations from searches on this site. Here are some pictures:

 

Here's a shot showing the heavy duty shaft ball bearing race:

 

Here's the stock leaking waterpump:

 

Here's a picture of the Stewart waterpump mounted on the engine:

 

Cool, thanks for the help. The old rusty one is pretty much how mine looks, but it isn't leaking, and I'm not overheating, so, 1) do you think this stage one would be a good "upgrade", I mean it's only $75. 2) And with this pump, will I need to run a special thermostat like they offer with the three holes in it, or can I just run a normal 195? They mentioned "internal bypass", which I think they said the stage one has, so I wouldn't need a special thermo, what do you think?

3) O.K., I know this is a stupid question, but I've never taken my drive belt off, so how do I do this? 4) Also, will my stock pump pulley bolt directly to this pump, and can I re-use all of my bolts? 5) Will I need some kind of gasket to put it up to the block, or just use silicone or some other sealer? 6) You said our system is reverse, which you said the impeller turn opposite the crank, now does the water flow in the same direction on both a standard and reverse system?

Hey, I know this is just a water pump, but I have never done anything like this, so I like to gather as much info as possible. Thanks again. -89IRO

 

Oh, and what is your opinion on underdrive pulleys? I've heared a lot of problems with them....

 

This is a Direct Fit waterpump, everything will bolt on exactly like the original. All gaskets are provided. You can reuse the original bolts and original 195* thermostat.

The only bolt you'll need to seal the threads on is the lower driver side bolt (as you're looking from the front of the engine) because it goes through the water jacket. I put a dab of Permatex thermostat housing RTV silicone sealant but, you could use most any RTV silicone sealant.

To release the tension on the Serpentine belt, just get a 1/2" breaker bar and slip the end of it into the square socket on the spring tensioner and pull towards the passenger side fender. After you release the tension, while still holding the breaker bar, slip the belt off of one of the pulleys.

The water flows the same on both systems, the waterpump impeller is just reversed on the serpentine belt setup.

I did a search on underdrive pulleys and found that they are not worth the trouble on a daily driven vehicle. Thats just my opinion.

 

Great, I think I will have to order it pretty soon. I wonder how much shipping will be. So you're sure that my kragen 195 stat will be fine with this pump? Oh, and did you say this is pretty much the same pump you would get at the GM dealer, but with some slight mods? I read this somewhere, I think, maybe it was on their website. Later. -89IRO

 

DO NOT PUT ON UNDERDRIVE PULLEYS PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF ***!!!

 

I was in the desert of 29 Palms by Palm Springs for a few years with my '84 Trans Am. I put an Edelbrock water pump in and thought it worked great. But, if I had it to do all over again, I'd use a Stewart stage 2. I figure any weight I can drop by using aluminum is less weight to move off the line especially if it's as efficient at cooling like everyone says they are.

 

Isn't the edelbrock victor aluminum too though? I thought it was. I don't know, for a mild street engine, that stage two might be overkill. I don't know though. With the stage two, you would have to use of the those special stats. -89IRO

 

Right, the Edelbrock is aluminum as well. And yes Stewart says you need one of thier thermostats with the stage 2, but it's only like $12. That's peanuts compared to what you've probably already put in the car. I can't say I'm displeased with the way the Edelbrock worked, but the engine would still get hot when I used the A/C. Keep in mind this was in the desert in 120* weather or more. Lots of people would use the Edelbrock, lots would use the Stewart. I would have to agree with GKK and say that the stage 1 is definately the best performance for the dollar.

DUDE! I got my fans to work!

 

I just did this to my 5.7 hehe 25 bucks stock replacement

 

May I ask why?

 

Well, from what I have read, 90% of people have charging/cooling problems since the accesories drive slower, hence the term "under-drive" pulleys. And if you don't have those problems, it is probably a small gain. I for one, don't need to have my lights dim on me unless I am pushing 2500. -89IRO

 

OK, so should I go with the Victor or the stage 1? (Aluminum vs. cast.) -89IRO

 

I'll put in my vote for the Steward stage 1. You'll get great performance out of it and still save some cash for something else cool...like that kick **** looking BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator for L98 or LT1 I just saw in summit. Like $50! Anodized blue finish...mmmmmmmmmmmm.

 

I'm gonna do the AFPR after I do headers, oh I don't know, maybe before. What kind of HP gain will the AFPR make? It won't make my fuel pump wear out faster will it? Damn, that means I have to take the runners off, but that makes for a good excuse to polish them and the plenum......

 

fun bringing up 20yo posts, so these Stewart pumps seem to be discontinued. What's everyone's choice now?

 

Just go to O'Reilly auto and get a stock pump. For most street engines aftermarket pumps are a waste of money.

383 with a single core Autozone style plastic tank radiator, stock water pump and a Taurus electric fan for me. Never gets over 200 with AC on in 100F weather.so