i just broke something important mods help
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
i just broke something important mods help
ok trying to bypass my tb i broke my heater control valve. heres where i broke it. what are my options?????? can i bypass that too or will i experience some serious side effects???? if not do i just have o find another to replace it???
i need some serious help here
i need some serious help here
Last edited by CamarosRUS; Dec 30, 2006 at 12:57 PM.
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Posts: 925
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From: Kingsport, TN
Car: '92 RS, '84 Z28
Engine: 383, L69
Transmission: T56, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.42
You can buy a replacement, or reroute the heater hoses, one going into heater core, one coming out and going in radiator. Only drawaback to this is, you get a little heat on the floor when its in cold position. Also if you get rid of it, dont forget to plug the vacuum line.
Kevin
Kevin
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,947
Likes: 368
From: Las Vegas
Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
Hmm, KY, so you'll need your heater this winter, lol. Yup, no worries, you can replace that.
But for a temporary fix to remove that valve, you can couple the hose from the manifold to the hose that goes straight back to the firewall(from the valve you're removing). The hose from the heater core to the radiator is the metal tube(to rubber hose) that's resting on the frame rail next to the A/C tubing.
The curved hose from the valve you're removing joins that metal tube to return to the radiator. So you'll need to remove that curved hose and cap and clamp the nipple it was connected to down there. You're all set, and it's good for as long as you'd like.
And like deepstage69 said, don't forget to cap that vacuum line that plugs onto the top of that heater valve.
Oh, and get a bandaid benj and clean up the blood.
But for a temporary fix to remove that valve, you can couple the hose from the manifold to the hose that goes straight back to the firewall(from the valve you're removing). The hose from the heater core to the radiator is the metal tube(to rubber hose) that's resting on the frame rail next to the A/C tubing.
The curved hose from the valve you're removing joins that metal tube to return to the radiator. So you'll need to remove that curved hose and cap and clamp the nipple it was connected to down there. You're all set, and it's good for as long as you'd like.
And like deepstage69 said, don't forget to cap that vacuum line that plugs onto the top of that heater valve.
Oh, and get a bandaid benj and clean up the blood.
Last edited by LAFireboyd; May 10, 2004 at 03:26 AM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
yea it got me pretty good but at the time i was too worried to do something about it...............1:30 am
but damn it still hurts this morning
but what exactly will happen with my heat and A/C if i remove the heater control valve. will i still have A/C in the summer? will i still have heat in the winter?? will i blow heat out in the summer? will i blow COLD in the winter even if the selector is on HOT?
but damn it still hurts this morningbut what exactly will happen with my heat and A/C if i remove the heater control valve. will i still have A/C in the summer? will i still have heat in the winter?? will i blow heat out in the summer? will i blow COLD in the winter even if the selector is on HOT?
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,947
Likes: 368
From: Las Vegas
Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
Good question. I wasn't sure on that, so I asked a friend about it. He wasn't really sure either, lol.
It shouldn't affect the heater since that's basically how a heater core system has always been set-up, but it could affect the A/C, making it not cool as effectively.
So unless someone chimes in who knows for sure, I guess the only way to know is to try it. And since you can't use the car with the broken valve and the hoses open, you either have to fix the valve immediately, or you'll have to bypass it and findout.
Let us know.
It shouldn't affect the heater since that's basically how a heater core system has always been set-up, but it could affect the A/C, making it not cool as effectively.
So unless someone chimes in who knows for sure, I guess the only way to know is to try it. And since you can't use the car with the broken valve and the hoses open, you either have to fix the valve immediately, or you'll have to bypass it and findout.
Let us know.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
well i went ahead and fixed it. i just didnt like it being in the way so i decided to relocate it next to my A/C system. its not robbing any power so i wanted to keep it to make sure things work properly but i wanted it gone for space issues. this is a perfect median. i had to go to autozone and buy another valve (15 bucks!!!!!) and a longer section of hose that cost me another 11 but its now out of the way. the only thing left is one hose that runs to the intake/block for coolant but that can easily be detached when needed. and my tb bypass is good to go. and now my AIR tubes are almost all off!!!!! man plugs and wires is going to be so damn easy after this is all done
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
they break easily and if you work on your car alot, they break often.
if someone made a metal one, id buy it in a heartbeat.
btw, i chuckled when i saw the pic.. first i see the blood on the finger, then on the hose.
then i looked at my hands(mostly my right)
yup.
its monday.
and my hands have fresh cuts too.
lol.
if someone made a metal one, id buy it in a heartbeat.
btw, i chuckled when i saw the pic.. first i see the blood on the finger, then on the hose.
then i looked at my hands(mostly my right)
yup.
its monday.
and my hands have fresh cuts too.
lol. Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Originally posted by MrDude_1
they break easily and if you work on your car alot, they break often.
if someone made a metal one, id buy it in a heartbeat.
btw, i chuckled when i saw the pic.. first i see the blood on the finger, then on the hose.
then i looked at my hands(mostly my right)
yup.
its monday.
and my hands have fresh cuts too.
lol.
they break easily and if you work on your car alot, they break often.
if someone made a metal one, id buy it in a heartbeat.
btw, i chuckled when i saw the pic.. first i see the blood on the finger, then on the hose.
then i looked at my hands(mostly my right)
yup.
its monday.
and my hands have fresh cuts too.
lol. Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,937
Likes: 0
From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Whats the name of that part i am going to flush my cooling system and go back to the green stuff i figure since im draind i should go ahead and change that too.
Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: Dallas TX
Car: 87 Formula 350
Engine: LS1 in Progress
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9 bolt
In most catalogs I have seen it as a Heater Control Valve...cheap and I see people replacing them all the time on GM"s. I would love metal one too. I just assume if I am getting anywhere near the passenger side firewall or heater core and doing serious work...might as well by another HCV...cause im gonna break it.
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