Okay, here's an update, if anyone has been following my cooling issues. I originally had the fan switch installed in the thermostat housing because I forgot to take the plug out of the pass head before installing engine. At that time, the temp would reach 240º until the fan would come on. It would stay on for a few seconds, then shut right back off. If I turn the A/C on, it will stay on all day until I turn A/C off, so I don't think it is the relay.
Well, I got industrious, and decided to swap the temp sensor in the driver's head with the fan switch that was in my thermostat housing. After rerouting and lengthing the wires, I got the fan switch into the drivers side head. The temp reads up to 240º until the fan turns on, and then turns right back off after a few seconds. So, Basically, I have the same problems.
My questions: Is there another input that controls the fan that I am missing?
And what is this sensor for?

 

Well, the one you have circled is the coolent temp sensor for the computer,the one for the gauge is a single wire that goes in the drivers side head ,the one above your circle looks like the thermal fan switch(turns fan on and off) that is normally located in the pass. side head between 6 and 8 spark plug.also a single wire. And the fans are supposed to come on when you turn the air on.

Hope that helps

 

Coolant Temp Sensor for ECM, okay I gotcha. Now the sensor for the gauge is in the thermostat housing and the fan switch is in the driver's head. I was expecting the fan to start coming on around 220º now, but it is still waiting until 240º.
Car has new waterpump, new 180º thermostat, new radiator cap, cooling system has been flushed recently. The fan switch is a new factory type. The CTS is also brand new. Any ideas as to why the fan isn't coming on at 220º like it should?
The only thing I can think of is that the fan switch that I just got is bad from the factory. Maybe set too high a temp or something. I guess I should just go and get that lower temp switch and see if that works.
I could wire the fan manually, but I am not the only driver (gf), and I don't want her to have to keep remembering to turn it on and off all the time. You see where I'm going with this, right?

 

If your going by the gauge in the dash,it's probably off. I have the 200* on and it shows 220* on the dash. Go figure I also think the factory was 225 230.

 

Well I think you are right about the gauge being off. I let the car get up to around 220º on the gauge, and then pointed my laser thermometer at the thermo housing. It read 201º. Man, that is a big difference! So do the sensors for the gauge go bad too? Should I repalce it also? Or are factory gauges just that off all the time?
The only other thing I noticed, is that the one time i actually let it get that hot (240º on the gauge) while driving (in the city), my valves started tapping. But I believe that was right after I had it emissions tested, and still had the timing set retard just a few degrees. It is back to 0º now, and I am toying with setting it advanced a few degrees to see if that may help some.
My 83 s/e was carbed with a clutch fan, and I was plagued by a similar problem. All it took was a new water pump, new clutch for the fan, a lower temp thermostat, and a new griffin radiator.

 

I guess they can go bad.I'm still running my original. maybe over time,heating up and cooling down weakens the resistor and gives a false reading.Or the gauge it self gets screwy.Not really sure.Might wanna try an aftermarket gauge.

 

I solved that late fan control junk by putting an adjustable fan control instead of relying on the factory radiator fan switch. It's cheap to. Go to autozone, they have an adjustable fan control kit, by Hayden Cooling, for $15. Now find the power wire from the original fan switch and use that to supply the power. The kit explains the rest, you can put the control anywhere cause it comes with a long probe to fit in the fins of the radiator. Now get a good guage and set it accordingly. It shuts off 20 degrees cooler than when you make it switch on. I use it for the track so that I don't have to shut the car off in the staging lanes. I did it in a friends 90 RS and it eliminated his starter heat soak because of his headers, your results may vary!

 

I had a similar problem with my 92 Z28. I installed a differet fan switch I got from NAPA for like $10. FS108 is the part number. The fan switch is located on the passenger side head between the back two cylinders, just under the exhaust mainfolds. It has one wire coming out of it.

 

Okay, well lack of fundage right now dictates that I find an alternative method for fixing this problem, temporarily. I am thinking about wiring the fan to just come on whenever the car is running. Anybody know which wire/relay that I should run to/from to achieve this?

*EDIT*
Nevermind that last question, I just clipped the connector off the fan switch and put it to ground. So now when I start the car, the fan comes on and stays on. I will keep it this way until after the hot weather is over with and then get that lower temp switch.