So we all know the third gens tend toward the hot side due to their front end design (or something like that). We also know how critical the air dam is for providing wind current through the radiator but here is where I get fuzzy...

I've seen that it's good to put in a lower thermostat (160 degree was mentioned) but I am not sure that it's just that simple to throw a new thermostat into my cooling system. Is it?

Some other suggestions I've seen that may contribute to a cooler running car is to use "Water Wetter" in conjunction with standard, green anti-freeze, regular flushings of the cooling system, wire the fans so they stay on, get a dula fan setup, and so forth.

I'm just unclear about the 160 stat thing. Do I have to change something in the ECU to accomodate the new stat?

Curious,

 

I meant a 180* stat. Is this simply a slap it in and go kind of thing?

I'm thinking not.

 

Yes it is simple as that.I put a 180 in mine and it runs at a cool 190 all the time.It only took about 10-15 minutes to put in.

 

I run a 180 stat in the summer months. 190-195 is about where the needle falls.

In the summer, I run straight distilled water and a corrosion inhibitor. Works fine for me.

The thing about the 160 stat that I've read from a few people is that the ECM, via the CTS, reads that the temp is lower, hence increasing the amount of fuel added. That means burning a tick on the rich side.

 

Cool! I'll prolly do this in the Spring then for sure. I'm guessing Tahoe doesn't really get that hot in the summer though, does it?

Thanks!

 

Uh,between 85 and 90 most days.

 

my 88 lb9 was heating up constantly really bad in the summer months of Sacramento, Ca, so i did a few things. Put 180 thermo in, wired 2 fans to dual switches, and a new airdam. Hasn't gotten above 190 since. The 180 is best imo, as to what was said about running rich with 165 thermo.

 

Ewww... the dual fan set up was big too. I'd do that mod too if I had the know-how.

 

don't all thirdgens have 2 electric fans, for the feul injected cars at least? It's not hard to do, we also put in a little mini fuse in the engine compartment from the wire from the fan to switch for safety's sake. I mounted the switches on a flat open spot directly beneath the cigarette lighter, but your car is different interior etc.

 

tbi cars are single fan, im not sure but i think most 305 tpi are too.

 

My TBI is:

 

My 305 tpi is a dual fan set up.I think anything over like 200 hp from the factory had 2.I could be wrong though.

 

200 HP is what I'm shooting for. I guess that's why it makes sense that this mod is on my list.

Now if I only had the money...

 

For my old 84 t/a I bought a dual set up from summit for like 175.It came with it's own thermostat and everything.It was really slim too.Good fans if you are looking.I wouldn't buy an old set because they could go out the next day,never know.

 

i got a 86 iroc, originally a TPI305, and it has a single fan....i now have a 350, and she gets real hot...hard driving+Warm air=250 degrees on the temp gauge...i gotta figure something out this winter to help cool that thing down...i got a 160* stat in it...i'm thinking about puttin my stock single fan on the front of the radiator somehow and putting a flex fan connected to the engine on the backside..then run the front fan with a switch..so when the temp gets up there, i can just flick on the fan...good idea or no??

 

I have ran all three T-stats (160, 180 & 195). I found the 160 a bit cool in the winter. With proper tuning of the eprom, you can get similar performance from all, but the 195 has the lowest emission levels (if that's a concern).

The one thing most guys don't consider is "reprogramming" the eprom for the lower t-stat. Driving on the open highway, the lower temp t-stats will work fine. But, if you get stuck in traffic, unless you had the temp setting in the eprom reset, your fans will not come on until the stock setting (somewhere around 205*).

Lastly, if you have a SD setup, you can make an easy change so BOTH fans can be controlled by the ECM and obtain maximum cooling.

 

Isnt it bad for the engine to run too cold? Like, Canadian winters can see -20 celcius easy, and I dont know if it would be good to drive in that weather if I only had a 180* stat on my LG4...

 

A 180 will still let the computer run properly.It will still run about 190-195.160's are to cold unless the chip was reprogramed.

 

I'm assume you mean someone wanting to JUST change the t-stat and NOT change the eprom.

Excluding 'tuning' issues (which I think a person can ALWAYS improve), the only thing I recall to "watch out for" is the IAC learn temp on a few calibrations ($8D/SD and $6E/MAF....haven't checked the other MAF calibrations but they probably should be checked also).

I think the stock IAC learn temp is around 190*F (86*C) as I recall for the $8D & $6E. I am not at my "other computer" that has all the info on it, so I am only going off memory. I'm sure someone will speak up if I'm mistaken and put the wrong IAC learn temps.

But I do recall the IAC learn temp being just a "little high" for the 180* T-stat (as well as optimizing/tweaking the fan on/off temps...which you should consider even for the stock 195* t-stat).

 

Sounds like mine, and it SMEALT like it too. The radiator won't hold anything anymore and this came as a shock while I was doing fuel pump work. The car was parked for quite a few months while not running! I still have no radiator yet...waiting and waiting.... [eBay] I've always had two factory fans on my Bird!
The front dam has been replaced... they get damaged easily on curbs or SNOW banks!
Someone with a hopped up performance engine was mentioning their 160 thermistat... yep, 160. I went with the factory spec but I would imagine it should work fine.
-B