i just got a new eletric fan for my 86 Z because my stock one was binding up when i got it now my new fan can be a pusher or a puller so i take it as if i put it behind the radiator (close to the water pump) it would be a puller, is this right? also this fan has like zip ties so, can the fan sit on the hot radiator or will it melt i wouldnt think thay would sell a fan that couldnt sit on the radiator
so what i need to know is should it be a puller and can the fan sit on the radiator
thanks

pj

 

A new motor would've worked? Dont matter to me. The fan wont melt. heck I just bought a good working one on e-bay for 1.99.

 

All fans can be pushers or pullers. It has nothing to do with the location of the fan, they all sit behind the radiator (on the engine side). Push or pull is determined only on the polarity of the motor. If you reverse the polarity of the connection (swap positive with negative and vice versa) then the fan operates backwards.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that's my understanding.

 

True and also false. An electric (as well as piston, ask a nascar driver that backs up his motor) motor is set up via brushes that may have been biased to run in a certain direction. Yes drills are reversed and such and electric motors are easily built that are reversable.

The major problem becomes a matter of NOT KNOWING how the motor or blade were designed. In cases where direction and polarity are indicated in wiring diagrams, it woud seem that the manufacturer might well be expressing an opinion on the subject. If they indicate the direction of movement and also indicate that the fan may be mounted on the other side to act in the opposite manner, this could be a hint. If, on the other hand they indicate that a fan motor can be placed on either side and also be wired in either direction, then the directions would apply to THAT fan model. Not others with different construction and instructions.

Even if built to go in either direction, their "break-in" and testing period may well have been in one direction only, leading to a bias in the way they like to go.

Not only is the motor a question, the blade design may well be an even bigger impediment to the direction change. yes it is very possible to design a blade with bi-directional ability and YES the darn thing will run in reverse. But to build a blade that is super efficient, there are often compromises made and reversability removed. Hence, the darn blade only functions well in just one direction.


When purchasing these things we do not know how they are designed, built, or tested, prerun. Only the manufacturer knows for sure. I would go with the instructions.

In the install of any motor that is used, such as the one I used, it is SURE that this motor has been biased to run in just one direction. If for no other reason than the simple fact that is has gone possibly HUNDREDS of hours in just one direction. Even if originally built to go either way, the brushes would wear very fast if they had to break in for the opposing rotation all of a sudden, causing early failure.

 

Makes perfect sense, good info.

 

well the instructions said for the fan to be a puller you have to remove the nut flip the blade put the nut back on and also reverse the wires so it spins the other way
i got it on but still having probs with the cooling system
thanks for the input

 

It will be more effective as a puller (behind the radiator), than as a pusher.
Don't use the thru-the-fins zip ties.....after a little vibration they will file a
cut through your coolant tubes and cause a leak. Instead build yourself,
or buy perimeter type mounts.

 

I read that last post as doing two things when only one should be needed.

I have just ONE answer. THe AIR has to move like it would NATURALLY move. From FRONT to BACK. Into grill and out of back of radiator. So you can either push it trough or pull it through, but the direction of the AIR is from front to back. I guess I would be wrong if you were going in reverse all day long, but if you drive in forward gears most of the time, then air has to move from front to back. The other way will cause fan to be running AGAINST natural air flow and slow blade down and burn up poor electric motor from having to fight natural air flow all day long. Besides that, underhood air is hotter than outdoor air and will overheat your radiator in a heartbeat.

 

It can be a pusher, if it's mounted in front of the radiator, which works, just
not as well.....I'm hoping nobody would think of mounting it and wiring it either
way to blow forward......

 

PJ POLING s' post read as if he might turn the fan BLADE around and ALSO reverse the wiring. Didnt that sound like a double negative to you? I would say, reverse the fan blade and leave wiring alone if moving from one location to the other. Assuming that it was correct to begin with, then it would be opposite when placed in the OTHER location.



Maybe I got the gist of his post all wrong?

 

i assure you that the directions said to flip the blade and ALSO reverse polarity of the wires for the fan to be a puller i did this and the fan workes good no problems its mounted behind the radiator but the zip ties are allread loose after only one week
anyway thanks for the replys
pj

 

What the hell brand of fan is this?

 

some auto zone type its a 14 inch ele. fan it cost me like 75 dollars

 

Is this to be your only fan? Check the CFM on it....if it doesn't flow at least
2,500 c.f.m., you'll be overheating.

Basically, make sure that wherever you mount it, it blows toward the water
pump, that's as simple as I can say it.

 

Just some information... I had 1 14" and 1 10" hayden fans on my TA at first, would overheat after a short trip.. Purchased the stock Dual Fans, hasnt happened since... mileage may vary

 

Ya, my dual Spal fans flow 2,950, which I consider minimal for Arizona using
A/C, but I run right at 170 in the middle of summer, A/C on in traffic....

Most fans you buy at the parts store won't work as primary fans....if you look
at the flow, the fastest off-the-shelf fan you'll most likely fan will flow maybe
1,500-free.....and that's a 14". If you could mount two of them up, without
overlap (so that they are not fighting each other) it would be enough, assuming
the amperage draw didn't beat the hell out of you're charing system-not a
happy thing on a TPI car.

In your shoes, I'd find either an O.E. dual fan set-up in good condition, and
change your fan switch, or buy a good killer aftermarket fan....they are a lot
of money, but will put your mind at ease during the summer.

 

just did a quick search, there are a couple stock dual fan setups on ebay for about $50, also check the classifieds here.

 

I only run a 1600 cfm fan and I run just fine...

 

Summertime as well? I know you guys get pretty humid up there....
What about with the a/c on? I dunno if he's using a/c, but if your condenser
doesn't cool down, you're gonna blow warm, especially id you've converted
to r134a...

 

Don't have A/C, no condenser. I never really ran it hard, but the cooling system isn't exactly "wimpy," either.

There's a lot more to cooling a car than cfm, IMO.

 

True...I was assuming that his ride is mostly stock.....

 

well the guy at auto zone said this was the fan for my car i think the stock one was around the same size 14'' it didnt say cfm i assume its atleast 1200? hope so

 

Yeah, it's right at 1200.....the factory fan is around 1500 and is
barely marginal, unless you've changed the coolant fan switch
to come on earlier and are running a 180 or lower stat, and have
a very good radiator.

 

M.Hall you touched on a question I've been pondering.Whether to switch from the current clutch fan setup to a factory single electric fan setup down the road.I know my car has heavy duty cooling if this would make a difference.Would I just be throwing money into the wind(literally)by doing this or would I be better off just staying with the current clutch/engine driven fan setup?
By the way is your '87 white or beige?Just curious.My '83 is beige and bears a resemblamce to your very nice '87(well at least in color scheme).