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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 10:10 PM
  #1  
VenomX-87's Avatar
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From: Adelaide, Australia.
Car: 1984 Trans-Am WS6
Engine: WAS: 5.0HO, SOON: ZZ383-425HP.
Transmission: 700R4 with shift kit
Extra cooling.

Hey, i have a idear and am wondering if it is possible.
Ok to start with i have no heater it has been blanked off and i also have Aircon (No power going to it but when hooked up manualy it dose work) but i don't want it, id rather cruse with the windows down.
Any way once the noisy aircon pump has been removed i have the condencer sitting there with two lines going to it roughly the same size as the heater lines.

My question is can i run the line from the water pump into the now empty condencer and out in to the back of the inlet manifold for extra cooling?
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 02:42 PM
  #2  
VenomX-87's Avatar
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From: Adelaide, Australia.
Car: 1984 Trans-Am WS6
Engine: WAS: 5.0HO, SOON: ZZ383-425HP.
Transmission: 700R4 with shift kit
Oh 1 thing is the Temp guage in the cab in C or F?
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 02:49 PM
  #3  
5678TA's Avatar
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From: Maui, Hawaii
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: broken 385sbc
Transmission: G-Force rebuilt T-5
Axle/Gears: Currie 9" Ford 4.30:1
if the guage has a number somewhere near 200 then its in F.. if its below 130 then C.. i have an 84 TA also but i ditched the factory guage cluster way before i even had a chance to see it work.. car was bought, driven home by father(i just turned 15/no license or permit), then the teardown began that same night for bodywork, paint and a new life..

EDIT: i have no idea about AC, because it didnt work and was tossed out in the teardown process.. along with all the fan/heater stuff.. but i dont see why your idea wouldnt work.. if you really want more cooling, get an aluminum radiator and electric fans.. and a high-flow water pump.. how hot is the car running??

Last edited by 5678TA; Jan 22, 2007 at 02:57 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 02:51 PM
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally Posted by VenomX-87
Hey, i have a idear and am wondering if it is possible.
Ok to start with i have no heater it has been blanked off and i also have Aircon (No power going to it but when hooked up manualy it dose work) but i don't want it, id rather cruse with the windows down.
Any way once the noisy aircon pump has been removed i have the condencer sitting there with two lines going to it roughly the same size as the heater lines.

My question is can i run the line from the water pump into the now empty condencer and out in to the back of the inlet manifold for extra cooling?
have any underhood and interior pics?
i want to see how they did the RHD conversion.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 03:42 PM
  #5  
VenomX-87's Avatar
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From: Adelaide, Australia.
Car: 1984 Trans-Am WS6
Engine: WAS: 5.0HO, SOON: ZZ383-425HP.
Transmission: 700R4 with shift kit
I can't atm, im at work :P
I will post some tonight, my guage sits around 170* 70% of the time but if it is a real hot day it sits around 220/230* but i have taken the panels out of the front bumper to get better air flow (it don't look good and i want to put them back), I have dual thermo fans out of a jap car (2X 12" with shrouds) http://84transam.blogspot.com/ read the top section, stock 180* T/stat and a S/Steal under car air scoop 250x600mm (no air dam).
One other thing my cash flow is minimal ATM and im trying to do the mods with stuff i have laying around, Plus stuff for this car is very hard to get here.

Last edited by VenomX-87; Jan 22, 2007 at 03:52 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 04:08 PM
  #6  
5678TA's Avatar
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From: Maui, Hawaii
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: broken 385sbc
Transmission: G-Force rebuilt T-5
Axle/Gears: Currie 9" Ford 4.30:1
well my machinist taught me a trick of drilling 1/8th inch holes in the thermostat to keep a constant water flow.. works for me.. i NEVER go over 185 in 85+ degree weather.. BUT, i do have an aluminum radiator, 15" waterpump mounted flex-a-lite fan, and a 15" electric pusher fan.. all on a 4.040" bored 385.. with 11.2:1 compression and massive cam.. when i cruise the highway during a blazing hot day, i can stay 170.. on cool nights, 165-160 is normal, sometimes even 155.. but anyway, try drilling three or four 1/8th inch holes in the thermostat and see if that helps.. if it doesnt, try a block and radiator flush..
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 04:21 PM
  #7  
VenomX-87's Avatar
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From: Adelaide, Australia.
Car: 1984 Trans-Am WS6
Engine: WAS: 5.0HO, SOON: ZZ383-425HP.
Transmission: 700R4 with shift kit
my old T/stat (170*) had 4 holes in it about 4mm in size and i had to ditch it coz it didn't open and the car cooked but when that was working it was good, so i may have to drill some holes in to my new one.
Thx i will give it a go.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 02:54 AM
  #8  
VenomX-87's Avatar
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From: Adelaide, Australia.
Car: 1984 Trans-Am WS6
Engine: WAS: 5.0HO, SOON: ZZ383-425HP.
Transmission: 700R4 with shift kit
The Aircon pump is badly mounted and shakes, pulleys don't line up, power steering box is badly mounted and moves slightly under load and top belt hits rad hose. NOT worth the $10,000 the last owner payed for the RHD conversion in my opinion, All these problems i am currently working on.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...7/Image003.jpg

Last edited by VenomX-87; Jan 23, 2007 at 03:06 AM.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 09:27 PM
  #9  
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1
I tried the drilling holes in a thermostat, for me it actually stayed too cool, especially once I had the airdam on.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 12:31 AM
  #10  
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
Car: 88 camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
I'm not an airconditioning specialist but I'm pretty sure that wouldn't work,
It works just like a refrigerator. The compressor actually heats the freon or whatever the new stuff is called (RC-51?). Therefore running you coolant through there would make thing worst and probably result in some kind or failure.
I'd get a new radiator, a 3 or 4 core would work nicely
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 01:17 AM
  #11  
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1
R134, old stuff which ours used is called R12.

Yes, A/C's work by needing heat.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 01:26 AM
  #12  
lizardkng's Avatar
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From: Livingston, TN
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Yeah, if youre considering running your coolant through your air conditioning, thinking that the AC will cool the coolant...like running it through a refrigerator, then I think youre mistaken.

A/C doesnt work like that.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 04:54 PM
  #13  
VenomX-87's Avatar
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From: Adelaide, Australia.
Car: 1984 Trans-Am WS6
Engine: WAS: 5.0HO, SOON: ZZ383-425HP.
Transmission: 700R4 with shift kit
No im going to destroy the air-con i dont want it, But i want to use the condencer the thin rad looking thing to act as a second rad using the heater lines.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 06:08 PM
  #14  
5678TA's Avatar
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From: Maui, Hawaii
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: broken 385sbc
Transmission: G-Force rebuilt T-5
Axle/Gears: Currie 9" Ford 4.30:1
guys, i dont think you are understanding what VenomX-87 is trying to do here.. he wants to use the condenser only, not the entire system.. you know the thing that looks like a weak version of a radiator, infront of the real radiator?? he wants to flow coolant through that to add to his cooling needs.. not flow coolant into the compressor and heat exchanger..

just go for it.. make sure its clean, and give it a try..
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 07:14 PM
  #15  
vorgath's Avatar
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1
wouldn't do that, I would remove it, because right now it blocks the radiator already

maybe if you put a shield/shroud between back of radiator and engine, and yes two fans, with manual switches
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 08:39 PM
  #16  
VenomX-87's Avatar
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From: Adelaide, Australia.
Car: 1984 Trans-Am WS6
Engine: WAS: 5.0HO, SOON: ZZ383-425HP.
Transmission: 700R4 with shift kit
I will try it in a month or so and if it works ill re-post and let everyone know if it is good or bad, if it dose not work the condencer will be torn out and a oil cooler will go in its place..
ATM im only trying to find the best ways to cool a third gen Trans-Am with the current 305 because in about a year im installing either a mild 350 or a hot 327 and want to know it is going to keep it at the best possible temp at high RPM.

Thanks For youre replys and i will try work this out, if someone in the next fue weeks hears of anyone making this work please post and let me know.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 02:24 AM
  #17  
Bitza's Avatar
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From: The Land Down Under
Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: 305 Carb
Transmission: 4 Spd Saginaw
Axle/Gears: 3.23LSD
Welcome VenomX-87 from a fello Aussie and 3rd Gen owner.

My question is can i run the line from the water pump into the now empty condencer and out in to the back of the inlet manifold for extra cooling?
I wouldn't even bother doing that, tis a total waste of time in doing it.
Your only going to be pushing hot air back through the radiator, which is exactly what the condensor would do if the A/C was operational as the condensor is the A/C's radiator.

my guage sits around 170* 70% of the time but if it is a real hot day it sits around 220/230* but i have taken the panels out of the front bumper to get better air flow (it don't look good and i want to put them back), I have dual thermo fans out of a jap car (2X 12" with shrouds) http://84transam.blogspot.com/ read the top section, stock 180* T/stat and a S/Steal under car air scoop 250x600mm (no air dam).
Question, were the thermo fans on the car when you aquired it or did you fit them !!!! as there are a few things that maybe causing your high temps.
From what you've written part of the problem is lack of airflow through the radiator and those small fans won't be doing you any favors at all.
Nothing personal, take them off, store in find a big round drum for disposal at a later stage. As we say in the trade, find the cause, not the problem.
1 - Get the cooling system pressure tested for any leaks.
2 - Turf in a new thermostat, one around 160 - 180 degrees if not done already
3 - Pull the radiator, get it checked out because it may have a few tubes blocked as this would of been my next move.
4 - get the biggest diameter, highest possible CFM (cubic feet per minute) flow aftermaket unit to replace the jap crap.
OR
Find and install an original factory (oem) electric fan which will cool it, thats if they came installed with one.
OR
find an original fan shroud/clutch fan combo which will draw a shyte load more air than the lecy's already fitted. The clutch fan you'll find at any wrecker, any V8 Commie from VB - VP will fit and go searching for the shroud if you don't have the original one.
I've been done this road before with my own and other vehicles I've seen in the workshop. Frauds from EA - ED suffer similar if the clutch fan is replaced with lecy one's, same too with early Commies.

The Aircon pump is badly mounted and shakes, pulleys don't line up, power steering box is badly mounted and moves slightly under load and top belt hits rad hose. NOT worth the $10,000 the last owner payed for the RHD conversion in my opinion, All these problems i am currently working on.
I see yours has an aftermarket compressor/mounting bracket installed, some of these are a bit dodgey or incorrectly fitted. The top radiator hose I'd say is the prob, as it appears to be incorrect.
See attached pic of mine.
How long ago was the car converted !! for it have movement could mean you've got problems with the RH Rail as it maybe flexing or cracked like mine has around the retaining bolts etc. Nothing some plating, re-inforcing and welding won't cure. If you look closely, you'll see the cracks in these pics


Craig

Last edited by Bitza; Jan 25, 2007 at 05:27 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 04:37 PM
  #18  
VenomX-87's Avatar
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From: Adelaide, Australia.
Car: 1984 Trans-Am WS6
Engine: WAS: 5.0HO, SOON: ZZ383-425HP.
Transmission: 700R4 with shift kit
I put the jap thermo fans in because the large OEM thermo had no shroud and was running like 60* hotter than the dual fan setup on a normal day. It has a new 180*F T/stat, i hooked a second temp guage the other day to see if the OEM one is working properly, well i now know the T/stat dose open at 180*F (slight temp drop) it then turned the main fan on at 190*F (large temp drop) main fan turns off at about 182*F.
The engine bay will be striped and i will ditch the aircon anyway at the end of the year, i want it nice and clean in there but i will probley just chuck the condencer aswell and make some more panels to direct air up in front of the rad.
The radiator was recond before i got the car but i will check it, I was looking in to getting a set of Falcon thermo fans:
EA: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...7/a6ba_1_b.jpg
EL: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...m1987/a8_1.jpg
I know the jap ones are but they were a quick fix because my OEM one was not doing anything.
Thanks for the tips and pics, It is good to hear from another Aussie 3rd gen owner.

Steering:
It was converted back in 1987 when the car was imported from the U.S.
The rail has been re-inforced with an extra plate welded to it, i will have a closer look when i get home to be shure it has no cracking.
Thanks again.

Last edited by VenomX-87; Jan 28, 2007 at 10:24 PM.
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