i thought that if i grounded the green and white wire in the two set ups on the fire wall closest to the passangers side thta it would kick the fan on? did this and it didnt go on? is something wrong or how can i manually wire it in

 

I was wondering about this myself. On my 95 all I had to do was tap into a lead, can't remember which, at my ECM. I ran a wire from the tap, to a switch, to a ground. With the switch off, my fans come on normally at the preset temp. Which is around 175* since I reprogrammed it. With the switch on it will turn on the fans until I switch it off or turn off the car. Is there a place I can tap into like this on my 89 IROC? I think there was a problem with my fans anyway. I haven't run it or driven it very far, but I've seen it get to 220* but I never heard or saw the fans come on. Also it doesn't come on when I turn on the A/C. It does on my 95, is it normal for it not to on the 89? Another question is, There are two wires cut at my fans, one red and one black, they are close together, but I don't see what they were cut from unless the other side slipped back into the split loom. What color are the wires that go to the fans? Thanks A lot.

 

sounds like the fans fried on you iroc, it should come on with ac

i had a manual switch wired up before but took it out when i thought i fixed the problem, aparently not, went to wire it back in and it didnt work, of course, i was also using something like 14 guage speaker wire could that be the problem

 

I went out and hit the fans straight from the battery, they came on. I think one of the relays may be bad.

 

ok looked at the fan, theres a black wire and a black wire with a red stripe, which one is power and how do i hook these up to a switch?

 

Hey, do you have the 2 fans or one? I have the dual fan setup. The driver's fan was still wired correctly, The wires on the passenger's side were cut. I spliced them back together today. Then I went to the relays and didn't cut the green and white wires but just tapped into them. The wires I spliced in I grounded out and the fans started up. But they only started when the car was in the on position. Now I just have to run it through a switch to a ground.

 

single, theres two wires that come directly off the fan, how do i wire them up, i assume one is ground the other is hot

 

If you wire the fan straight through a switch to the battery, the switch won't last long. You'll need to wire up a new relay setup for a switch. Or tap into the factory one. It should work with the green/white wire grounded. Like I said don't cut the wire, just tap into it with a wire to ground. The fans should come on with the car on. Good Luck

 

i tryed grounding the green wire, the fan didnt come on, why wont the switch last long? what if i use a heavy duty switch and something like 12 guage wire

 

Because doing a bandaid fix would be stupid, as would be running that much current in and out of the passenger cabin. If the relay isn't working, fix it. It will be cheaper and safer than buying more wire and another switch.

 

how do i replace that relay or what could possibly be wrong with it?

 

Sometimes relays fail. Just go to the store and ask for another one. It's just a matter of: Step 1: unplug relay. Installation is the reverse.

Also check the wires leading into it. Make sure none of them have pulled out or anything. I see LOTS that have..

 

One of the solenoids is for the fuel pump, which can be easily
identified by not being able to start the car. Or if one has
burn marks, it is probably for the fan motor.

When fan motors start going bad, they draw more current than
the relay can handle, burning it up also. If the fan works, connected
directly to battery (black to ground, black/red to positive), it is not
a conclusive test. Measuring the current draw is the only definitive
test, which needs more specialized equipment than you probably have.
Look for a parts house, or a starter/alternator repair shop that might be
able to help. I'm not sure about the acceptable current draw, but I
would expect it to be less than 10 amps.

Testing the solenoid is not to difficult, given a rudimentary
understanding of DC circuits. If memory serves me right, there are
4 connections to the solenoid:
1 - low current switched ignition, 14-18 gauge
2 - ground, switched by the temp sensor, 14-18 gauge
3 - high current constant power from battery/alternator, 10-12 gauge
4 - high current switched power to fan, 10-12 gauge.
With the solenoid removed, a jumper across 3 & 4 should start the fan,
which verifies the wiring harness. With the solenoid in place, connect
2 to ground. You can get a connection point with a pin through the
wire, or pushed into the back of the connector. Remember, you need
the switched power at 1.

If the solenoid is bad, I think these are GM specific parts, for which
they're 'bout $15 proud.

305q be right -- don't run a high current switch into the cabin, and
if the motor is going bad, running the ground switch into the cabin
will only give you control of when you burn-up the solenoid.

Good luck, hope this helps.

 

I'm fairly sure my fans motors are ok. When I found the other end of my fan wires they had the "splicers" on them, taped up, stuffed back into the split loom. I just wired it back up correctly and so far it's working fine. I guess I could put a fuse in line to the fan motor. That way if it draws more than the 10 or 15 amps it will pop the fuse and I'll know it's drawing to much. I don't know why the people cut that one fan, I'm sure it was the owner that had it before the girl I bough it from. The driver's side one was still wired correct, and I have no idea why the "splicers" were there. They still had short leads on them, but I never found anything for them to wire to.

 

Hmmm.. I never knew that about fans drawing massive current when they're about to go. The one I got from a junkyard Buick for my 240sx draws so much current that the car nearly stalls when it comes on at idle.. I'm gonna have to go check that out.

 

i already replaced the fan motor a month and a half ago