xbcrguy182x

On my new radiator, 4 inches below the upper hose outlet, there is a hole with a screw in plug. And its like 2 inches from the tranny cooling line outlet. What is this for? Can I screw in a temp sensor unit in there? Thanks.

topradman

What brand of radiator did you install? What is its construction, i.e., copper/brass (painted black), plastic tank/ aluminu core, or all aluminum?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Where does your ¾" (cold side) heater hose go?

On some cars, it goes to the water pump; on some, it goes to a hose nipple in the cold side tank. Doesn't matter, functionally, as the 2 places are equivalent in terms of the coolant flow.

If you have the hose going to the water pump and a rad that has the hole for it, but no nipple there, there'd be a plug. If you needed to install the hose barb, you'd unscrew the plug and put it there instead.

Brand & material is pretty much irrelevant.

Yes you can screw a temp sender in there. It will tell you the temp of the cooled water leaving the rad and returning to the engine. Won't tell you the engine temp, or "coolant temp" in the normal sense, which would be the hot side.

topradman

OK, SOFAKINGDOM, let's pay attention!! If xbcrguy182x's radiator fits the car on his information "86 firebird 2.8 V6", and the hole is "4 inches below the upper hose" and it's "like 2 inches form the tranny cooling line outlet" , it must be on the inlet tank which is hot off of the motor, not the return line for the heater on the "cold side". This would be a great place for a temp sender or fan switch depending on what he is using for a sender and what he wants it to do, switch fans on or read temp! If this is the case, brand and material become RELEVANT for the following reason. Some companies use different fittings in the "holes" to accomplish different things. If he just screws in a temp sensor that's too deep, he will damage his transmission oil cooler and or the sensor! Hmmm, seems relevant. If I know the mfg and what construction, I can advise on a fitting that will accept what ever the sensor is that he wants to install to prevent this as I probably have one of those radiators in inventory, once again, depending on who the mfg is and what construction. Capishe? Because I have never seen a V6 radiator with a heater return on a third gen with a 2.8, only a 3.1 which was installed in 1990 - 1992 according to my info, I would find it unusual/impossible for this to be a heater return. If in doubt, ask a compitent radiator man??

xbcrguy182x

TopRadMan is right, its on the hot side of the radiator where the coolant from the engine comes pouring in. Well I forgot the Manufacturer. To describe it, its all painted black. That mystery hole has a plug screwed in now. Its a bit smaller than the tranny line whole. It would be awesome if I can put a temp sender in there!!!

NowTheBadNews

iTrader: (3)

someone is certainly PMS'ing. Dude lighten up! You act like you are a godly figure in the radiator business LOL ..

xbcrguy182x

hahaha so true

topradman

Well, when someone who clearly doesn't understand what up but turns around a says information I gave is irrelivant, it tends to rub wrong . Been in this business for 27 years and learned from the very best at the time. I would put my work up against anyones, period. If you had your entire adult life into something, replaced 2 techs where you learned your trade, started your own shop in a 25' x 40' converted storage unit 400 miles away from there and consumed 12 other area shops because you put your heart, soul and time into being the very best at what you do, you'd feel the same. My shop now is 10,400 sq ft and we are out of room 3 yrs after building it. My mom & dad didn't pay for it and I didn't have any investors. Been self employed since I turned 23. I enjoy helping out people with questions having to do with cooling so here I am and I love solving problems so expecting a little respect isn't too much to ask is it?? What you never have to worry about with anything I post is BSing any one just for the sake of having something to say. You won't hear me recommending JB Weld, stop leak or baling wire either. Not PMSing, just irritated when people say good information is irrelivant but then have no clue what they are talking about. After all, was I right, or was I full of poop on this question???Anyway.....now......from a "Godly" sort of radiator perspective.....that hole, if smaller than the cooler fittings should be 1/8" national pipe thread that will take a 7/16" wrench or socket to remove the plug. The radiator sounds like it is all metal if it's all painted black and is most likely a Proliance or a Radicon(vended by "Performance Radiator", an importer of Radicon. Anyway, the hole is originally there as a low coolant sensor. If you want to use a fan switch or temp sensor at that location, you will more than likely need a bigger opening to screw in one of these sensors as most all are a minimum of 1/4" pipe thread but the majority are 3/8" pipe thread. Temp sensors should really go into the head or the intake manifold ideally. When you decide what you are wanting to install in the hole and if you can't find a bushing that will allow it to work, let me know and I can whip up a fitting that will let it work. Will need to know pipe thread size, length of the probe that sticks past the end of the threads as the tip of the probe should really be just inside the tank to work properly but not run in so far that it damages the internal oil cooler. If this helps, let me know. Probably cost about $8 to make a special fitting if you can't find one. I'll mail it to you for free. (what an arrogant SOB I am huh? ) Well, anyway, let me know and hope this helps. Scott

NowTheBadNews

iTrader: (3)

Well dam, I do believe we have a radiator guy who is the best thing to happen to the united states since thanksgiving. Maybe you should have a movie made about you hows this "topgun radiatorman" you sley me man what is so hard about radiator repair, way more economical in all senses to just buy a new one. think about it, go anywhere pay for a brand new one and have the peace of mind knowing it wont be a problem later. Not dealing with people who say yeah I do it for 150 installed and you get a bill for 300.00. ....... Call me crazy but just easier buying a brand new one. new replacement radiators make you obsolete man.

topradman

Well now who's PMSing??? I stock 1600+ complete radiators, etc... and still keep 4 techs busy for 45 hrs a week making repairs and assembling components. Obsolete? Hmmmm. More economical???? Depends. What's so hard about radiator repair????? Well, you wouldn't know, would you??? Have the peace of mind knowing it won't be a problem later (with a brand new made in China, Mexico, Brazil...???? Hmmm. Depends. I guess considering the source, your reply doesn't completely surprise me. You can't even spell. Well, maybe we need to make a movie about you called "Top Dipshit".

xbcrguy182x

Alright guys, calm down. Back to the topic. lol I would like to put a temp sender in there because the one in the block is only a dummy light sender and its hard to change, unless I remote the ac compressor, the bracket that holds the compressor/p.s pump, etc. Its a PITA for sure. So if I can put a sender in the radiator, it would be terrific. It wont be good as if it was in the head, but its better than nothing. Thanks again topradman.

topradman

No problem xbcrguy. BTW, if you use a temp sensor with only one wire (which is common), you will probably need to ground the radiator to the radiator support with a short wire to get it to work right, remembering that in the head it's automatically ground because of existing ground straps. The radiator sits in those rubber insulators so tie a ground strap from the top steel rail to the rad support somewhere it can't be seen so it doesn't look bad for you. There may be some 2 wires out there but I have never seen one with a guage set that's electrical. Don't forget the trans cooler and not to damage it with too long of a probe. (Just another reason why construction was an important question to ask. If this was a plastic tank unit you would have to ground the hex part of the screw in sender......construction.....relevent!) If you use a mechanical sender with a mechanical guage, all you need is a transition fitting but I think you will find that they are too large for your opening, even with a special bushing. If you need that fitting let me know.